boomn29

iTrader: (47)

I've primarily stuck with the same front and rear as well. Either DTC60's or PFC01's.

I did start this year with DTC60's front and left over PFC01's in the rear - and did not like the feel. Although these are pretty similar compounds it turns out to be a slight rear bias. I've since set the old rears aside and bought new 60's in the rear to match up.

The pad of choice depends on your personal preference, driving style, and tire. Someone running a street tire, vs a 285 hoosier would obviously be running different setups!

I'd estimate the rears last about 3 times as long overall.
I've also got a lot of other work into the brake system:
- Front Titanium backing shims
- Front cooling ducts
- SS lines and freshly bled Motul of course

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I decided to give the DTC-70s a shot on the rear, to match my fronts. Thanks for all of the responses.

redvolution

iTrader: (3)

seems you've already decided but I'll throw my hat in for same pad front/rear (and I have an RS also).

Currently I have ST43s in front and DTC60s in back but I'll be switching to DTC60s all around next time. I prefer a soft initial bite, hence my choice of 60s over 70s.

59EVO

iTrader: (6)

If it's all the same to you guys, I'll stick with the tried and true method of braking...Sole Power!

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

It really depends on the track your on and the rubber your running. To keep it simple take the track for instance - You do a flat track like Sebring and I can run ST-43's front and rear all day with no problem, however when I go to a track like Barber that has wayyy downhill turning and braking, I have to step up to a Hawk 70 or an ST41 up front simple because your stopping the speed of the car + the multiplier of the car weight when gravity is introduced + the extra pedal pressure which means more heat. This is to keep the "comfort level" the same in the driver of course.

Bueller

iTrader: (1)

It can be done. However, like anything else with motorsports, there are too many variables at play to be able to say for sure yes, or no. The best way to find out is to step up and buy the pads and test them out. Until then, you will never really know.

286bhp

iTrader: (1)

I am going to dig this thread up in search of advice...

Last season I ran Ferodo DS2500s at my HPDEs and though I had no brake fade, I did experience pad transfer that resulted in 1) vibration on track and 2) noisy, moaning, grinding performance on the street.

I want to move to track-specific front pads for added resistance to pad transfer. What do you suggest?

My ordered criteria are:
1 - Good operating-temperature match for stock Advans (= a less aggressive pad?)
2 - Brake dust that will not damage the finish on my wheels
3 - Easy on rotors
4 - Long lasting pad
5 - Lower price

I am NOT trying to find the most aggressive, best stopping brake pad. All I really want a solution where fade and pad transfer won't be an issue and where I can do a season (7 days?) on a set of pads and rotors.

Other relevant information: I am still somewhat of a track-noob about 10 days of HPDE experience. My car is completely stock including stock street tires and I only plan on investing in the driver mod (plus pads and fluids)!

Thanks!

286bhp

iTrader: (1)

No opinions? I am leaning toward Performance Friction 97s at the moment.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

I had 97's on the front with stock rear's first few months i had the car, ran great on street and race - however - you MUST wash your wheels if they get wet and your hard on the brakes, because they along with most of the race compounds, will leave behind traces of your "efforts" on your wheels.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Make sure you swap out to a Dot 4 fluid. I'd recommend SRF if you're serious, but Motul or ATE Blue would be fine for your use.

I've read (never tried) a lot of people like the 2500's or Pagid Yellow's as an intermediate type of option. I did run PF Z-pads when I started HPDE's with good safe results. I drive a bit differently now I think...
I ran DTC60's most of this year on the track and to/from. They help up very well and had minimal squeal - but I'm not on the stock rotors if that matters to you. Everything's a balance & sacrifice in terms of pads.

Check out my original in-depth response up above.

286bhp

iTrader: (1)

What sort of traces are we talking about? Is there a race pad that does not endanger the finish of the wheels?

286bhp

iTrader: (1)

How bad is the DTC60 brake dust for the finish on your wheels? Are you using the DTC60s with street tires? Was there any particular reason you stopped using PFC01s and moved to the DTC60s?

Thanks!

Bueller

iTrader: (1)

Not that i know of. I have seen quite a few threads on Evom, Socalevo, Norcalevo, asking the same question youre asking, but unfortunately i dont recall if anyone knew of a good track pad with the characteristics youre looking for. Besides, whats inexpensive for me may not be for you, or whats easy on rotors for me may not be for you. If you want a great track pad that i think is easy on rotors, long lasting, and inexpensive (something that i have ran and will run), i would recommend the Raybestos ST43 pads. Martin from Girodisc sells them. And if youre ready for more, i would recommend you couple those pads with his 2-piece rotors.

UT_Evo

iTrader: (5)

Not sure what others have said, here's my 2 cents:

Of the 3 years I tracked the Evo, most of the time the front had track pads on them (DTC 70s as an example). The car had R-compounds, and the rear pads were my normal street pads (DS2500s). Almost the full 3 years that worked fine, the rear pads hardly wore out faster than the front (street) pads, even though they were being used on the track.

Then the last part of the last year I got race slicks... First 20 min session I hear grinding within about 15 min. I ate through about half of the DS2500s down to the metal. Bought some OEM pads from someone there, full pad. After 3 more 20 min-ish sessions, they were toast too. The last few events were done with track pads in both to prevent that.

So... If you're rear pads don't seem to be wearing much, they aren't getting used much, and IMO track pads back there wouldn't be useful.

spool_sample

iTrader: (3)

DTC-60s or 70s are DUSTY, and it doesn't just get on the wheels. I co-drove a buddy's Subaru 2.5RS that had 60s on it and after 14 auto-x runs on a long, fast course (just over 60 seconds, going to 3rd in 3 different places), the entire CAR was covered in dust. I can't imagine what the car would look like after a few 20-minute track sessions.

You might be more interested in DTC-30s. They are not *****-out aggressive like the 60s and 70s are; they don't dust and squeal nearly as much, but still provide tons of consistent stopping power - more than enough for street tires, IMO. I would think of them as a Hawk HP+ on steroids (about same dust and noise levels, but with more bite and consistency) or maybe a Carbotech XP8 but with more modulation and less numbness. I'm running them on the front only on my Evo (stock rears at the moment, can't trailbrake as much as I'd like to) and they have held up pretty well for fast autocrosses so far. I also run them all the time for daily driving, and the rotor and pad wear has been decent, although they can be loud (I didn't bother with shims, though). I can't comment on track day performance yet, but I predict that they would work well enough for the "casual" track day person... 60s or 70s might be better for breaking lap records.