2009 STU Discussion
Jan 1, 2009, 07:17 PM
#1
2009 STU Discussion
Well another year is here, along with updated rules. The past threads have been good:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
Time to do it all over again...
When do folks plan to start testing tires?
d
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
Time to do it all over again...
When do folks plan to start testing tires?
d
Jan 1, 2009, 07:46 PM
#2
I'm gonna need new tires for this season, I used up my A046's last season till they just about fell apart so I' m lookin forward to some reviews of the new nitto nt05 and kumho xs. Hopefully they will be competitive with the dunlops. I believe there are new B'stone Potenzas coming soon as well.
Jan 1, 2009, 11:05 PM
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Disclaimer: I've only done one season of autoX but definitely want to get more into it this year and just did my 60k mile service to (hopefully) keep my Evo for years to come.
Power: I removed the MBC that came on the car from the prior owner and now only have the HKS instake he installed. I don't see myself doing any power mods because I could spend money to get faster elsewhere.
Suspension: I have been researching suspension and pricing setups for a few months now and am closing in on what I want. I've been back and forth between coilovers and a good spring/strut combo and on sway bars as well. At the moment I'm eyeing the SmikeEvo setup with Whiteline sway bars and plan on running -2.0F/-1.5R camber with 0 toe all around.
Updated: Went with a set of Ohlins DFVs. A little different from the SmikeEvo setup but not too far from the custom KW V3s I was pricing. I am running -3F/-1.5R with 0 toe all around and corner balanced, 7 clicks from full stiff to start.
Tires: Even as a newbie, I quickly realized my Sumitomo HTR Z IIs were junk. I'm picking up a set of 245/40/17 Star Specs to run on my MR BBSs.
Update: Tire Rack's sale on RE-01Rs was too good to pass up. Went with those.
Brakes: Stock brakes, Hawk HPS pads. I'm planning on getting some stainless steel lines and ATE Super Blue fluid.
Update: Went with Goodridge stainless steel lines and Motul RBF600 fluid.
Weight savings: Nothing going on here.
Aero: Just a ricer carbon fiber front lip and vortex generator.
Driver mods: I plan on doing the Phase 1 and 2 Evo AutoX School along with a few HPDEs.
Power: I removed the MBC that came on the car from the prior owner and now only have the HKS instake he installed. I don't see myself doing any power mods because I could spend money to get faster elsewhere.
Suspension: I have been researching suspension and pricing setups for a few months now and am closing in on what I want. I've been back and forth between coilovers and a good spring/strut combo and on sway bars as well. At the moment I'm eyeing the SmikeEvo setup with Whiteline sway bars and plan on running -2.0F/-1.5R camber with 0 toe all around.
Updated: Went with a set of Ohlins DFVs. A little different from the SmikeEvo setup but not too far from the custom KW V3s I was pricing. I am running -3F/-1.5R with 0 toe all around and corner balanced, 7 clicks from full stiff to start.
Tires: Even as a newbie, I quickly realized my Sumitomo HTR Z IIs were junk. I'm picking up a set of 245/40/17 Star Specs to run on my MR BBSs.
Update: Tire Rack's sale on RE-01Rs was too good to pass up. Went with those.
Brakes: Stock brakes, Hawk HPS pads. I'm planning on getting some stainless steel lines and ATE Super Blue fluid.
Update: Went with Goodridge stainless steel lines and Motul RBF600 fluid.
Weight savings: Nothing going on here.
Aero: Just a ricer carbon fiber front lip and vortex generator.
Driver mods: I plan on doing the Phase 1 and 2 Evo AutoX School along with a few HPDEs.
Last edited by delongedoug; Mar 25, 2009 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Ohlins
Jan 2, 2009, 08:37 AM
#4
I'm gonna need new tires for this season, I used up my A046's last season till they just about fell apart so I' m lookin forward to some reviews of the new nitto nt05 and kumho xs. Hopefully they will be competitive with the dunlops. I believe there are new B'stone Potenzas coming soon as well.
Kuhmo XS
Bridgestone RE11
Yokohama AD08
Nitto NT05
Hankook z-something-another with flames on it.
Looks to be an expensive spring....
d
Jan 2, 2009, 08:46 AM
#5
I removed the MBC that came on the car from the prior owner and now only have the HKS instake he installed. I don't see myself doing any power mods because I could spend money to get faster elsewhere.
A good exhaust is definitely worth the investment. You drop weight and pick up spool/power.
Suspension: I have been researching suspension and pricing setups for a few months now and am closing in on what I want. I've been back and forth between coilovers and a good spring/strut combo and on sway bars as well. At the moment I'm eyeing the SmikeEvo setup with Whiteline sway bars and plan on running -2.0F/-1.5R camber with 0 toe all around.
For camber. START at -3F/-1.5R At lot of us run even more.
Spring rates: Above 500 lbs/in.
d
EDIT: Wow, this is lucky post number 2000. I'm getting old...
Jan 2, 2009, 10:00 AM
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On an STU car the intake is probably getting you nothing. Almost all the guys at nationals were running the stock airbox.
I didn't put it on and I'm not going to pay extra just to go back to stock. I'll leave it.
A good exhaust is definitely worth the investment. You drop weight and pick up spool/power.
It's tempting, but this season my money's going towards suspension and seat time.
I'll go ahead and give you the tip that nobody follows. Buy what you really need first. Don't get a stop gap solution. Almost everybody (myself included) buys something in the ~$1000 range, runs it for a season, then tosses it for a good coilover setup. Read all the stuff online, then buy something based on Koni, Bilstein, Penske, or the like. Can you win an JICs? Probably. Will it be easier on Koni's. In my experience, oh yeah. You're car will ride tons better on the street too.
I've been reading up a lot on a good coilover package but I think a good spring/strut/sway package will suit me best. I've been trying to find solid coilovers with camber plates for a little under $2k but there doesn't seem to be much out there.
For camber. START at -3F/-1.5R At lot of us run even more.
Spring rates: Above 500 lbs/in.
This is my daily driver, so -3 is too extreme for a set it and forget it camber and I'm not going to be getting an alignment before and after every event.
d
EDIT: Wow, this is lucky post number 2000. I'm getting old...
I didn't put it on and I'm not going to pay extra just to go back to stock. I'll leave it.
A good exhaust is definitely worth the investment. You drop weight and pick up spool/power.
It's tempting, but this season my money's going towards suspension and seat time.
I'll go ahead and give you the tip that nobody follows. Buy what you really need first. Don't get a stop gap solution. Almost everybody (myself included) buys something in the ~$1000 range, runs it for a season, then tosses it for a good coilover setup. Read all the stuff online, then buy something based on Koni, Bilstein, Penske, or the like. Can you win an JICs? Probably. Will it be easier on Koni's. In my experience, oh yeah. You're car will ride tons better on the street too.
I've been reading up a lot on a good coilover package but I think a good spring/strut/sway package will suit me best. I've been trying to find solid coilovers with camber plates for a little under $2k but there doesn't seem to be much out there.
For camber. START at -3F/-1.5R At lot of us run even more.
Spring rates: Above 500 lbs/in.
This is my daily driver, so -3 is too extreme for a set it and forget it camber and I'm not going to be getting an alignment before and after every event.
d
EDIT: Wow, this is lucky post number 2000. I'm getting old...
Jan 2, 2009, 10:10 AM
#7
I run -3F/-2R camber at all times on my EvoX (daily driver). I don't think it's that extreme really as long as your toe is 0'ed out.
Here's my plan for this year (my first year NOT in the Novice class):
Suspension (currently on 14/14kg Stance GR+Pro SSDs an stock sway bars):
- I'm going to experiment with ride height and rake angles a bit
- I am contemplating Cobb sway bars, but I am really unsure if I need to spend the money. The car is handling quite well as it is.
Brakes (currently Ferodo DS2500 pads, stainless lines and Motul 600 fluids):
- The brakes squeal entirely too much for a daily driver (I think it's the pad adapters in the rear). I'm likely going to try and roast these in order to justify something new
Tires (currently on 245/40/18 Star Specs with around 4,000 miles on them [and LOTS of autox runs]):
- When these wear out I'll have to figure out if I want to get another set of wheels and get track tires and street tires. I'll likely cheap out and get another set of tires and just use them for everything
Power mods (currently have an AEM intake and full TBE with a HFC):
- the only thing left that I can do is a tune. I need one badly to lean out the car since the stock tune is sooooo rich. I am contemplating the Cobb Accessport. I'll likely just wait for ECUFlash though (the AccessPort + custom maps is simply too expensive).
Other mods (already have harnesses [Schrothe Rallye 4] and they help a LOT):
- I'm thinking of a front splitter just because I like the look and it will help protect my front bumper a bit
Driver mods:
- I'm likely going to spend the money on the Evo School in May here in the Dallas area.
Other Racing
- I'm thinking about doing some NASA HDPEs in order to get my NASA license. While autocross is fun, a whole day spent for 5 minutes of driving REALLY is a hard sell.
My AutoX plans:
- I'll be competing with the N.Texas SCCA, Equipe Rapide (another club in Dallas), and a few events with the Oklahoma SCCA (family lives in OK).
Here's my plan for this year (my first year NOT in the Novice class):
Suspension (currently on 14/14kg Stance GR+Pro SSDs an stock sway bars):
- I'm going to experiment with ride height and rake angles a bit
- I am contemplating Cobb sway bars, but I am really unsure if I need to spend the money. The car is handling quite well as it is.
Brakes (currently Ferodo DS2500 pads, stainless lines and Motul 600 fluids):
- The brakes squeal entirely too much for a daily driver (I think it's the pad adapters in the rear). I'm likely going to try and roast these in order to justify something new
Tires (currently on 245/40/18 Star Specs with around 4,000 miles on them [and LOTS of autox runs]):
- When these wear out I'll have to figure out if I want to get another set of wheels and get track tires and street tires. I'll likely cheap out and get another set of tires and just use them for everything
Power mods (currently have an AEM intake and full TBE with a HFC):
- the only thing left that I can do is a tune. I need one badly to lean out the car since the stock tune is sooooo rich. I am contemplating the Cobb Accessport. I'll likely just wait for ECUFlash though (the AccessPort + custom maps is simply too expensive).
Other mods (already have harnesses [Schrothe Rallye 4] and they help a LOT):
- I'm thinking of a front splitter just because I like the look and it will help protect my front bumper a bit
Driver mods:
- I'm likely going to spend the money on the Evo School in May here in the Dallas area.
Other Racing
- I'm thinking about doing some NASA HDPEs in order to get my NASA license. While autocross is fun, a whole day spent for 5 minutes of driving REALLY is a hard sell.
My AutoX plans:
- I'll be competing with the N.Texas SCCA, Equipe Rapide (another club in Dallas), and a few events with the Oklahoma SCCA (family lives in OK).
Last edited by goofygrin; Jan 2, 2009 at 10:13 AM.
Trending Topics
Jan 2, 2009, 10:19 AM
#8
There's nothing in the sub-$2000 market that provides enough increase to justify the money and effort. I know I sound jaded, but talk to just about anybody who has trophied at nationals (Evolutionary, markdaddio, russnco, ss_rx7_rs2) and they'll tell you just about the same thing: spend $2k or don't bother. It's not about making the car rotate, that's easy. The real gain is the increased overall grip, faster transition speed, and poise when loaded up.
As for camber. -2.0 degrees is just not going to be enough static camber to make the front end work well. You're just giving away grip for free. All it takes to change the front setup is a jack, a 13mm and 22mm wrench, and 5 minutes. Mark a race setting and a street setting with a shapie and off you go.
d
As for camber. -2.0 degrees is just not going to be enough static camber to make the front end work well. You're just giving away grip for free. All it takes to change the front setup is a jack, a 13mm and 22mm wrench, and 5 minutes. Mark a race setting and a street setting with a shapie and off you go.
d
Last edited by donour; Jan 2, 2009 at 10:22 AM.
Jan 2, 2009, 10:22 AM
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got the Schroth Rallye 4 harness as well and am anxious to try it out this season. I totally agree on the 5 minutes of driving for a day of autocross compared to an HPDE.
I hear you. I had actually posed that specific question about changing camber settings before and after tracking and was told it will mess up the toe.
There's nothing in the sub-$2000 market that provides enough increase to justify the money and effort. I know I sound jaded, but talk to just about anybody who has trophied at nationals (Evolutionary, markdaddio, russnco, ss_rx7_rs2) and they'll tell you just about the same thing: spend $2k or don't bother. It's not about making the car rotate, that's easy. The real gain is the increased overall grip, faster transition speed, and poise when loaded up.
As for camber. -2.0 degrees is just not going to be enough static camber to make the front end work well. You're just giving away grip for free. All it takes to set change the front setup is a jack, a 13mm and 22mm wrench, and 5 minutes. Mark a race setting and a street setting with a shapie and off you go.
d
As for camber. -2.0 degrees is just not going to be enough static camber to make the front end work well. You're just giving away grip for free. All it takes to set change the front setup is a jack, a 13mm and 22mm wrench, and 5 minutes. Mark a race setting and a street setting with a shapie and off you go.
d
Jan 2, 2009, 10:33 AM
#10
I got the Schroth Rallye 4 harness as well and am anxious to try it out this season. I totally agree on the 5 minutes of driving for a day of autocross compared to an HPDE.
I hear you. I had actually posed that specific question about changing camber settings before and after tracking and was told it will mess up the toe.
I hear you. I had actually posed that specific question about changing camber settings before and after tracking and was told it will mess up the toe.
1) pick up the front
2) moves the camber plates
3) adjust the tie rods
4) drop the car
5) win
...still working on step 5 though...
d
Jan 2, 2009, 02:48 PM
#11
Newbie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the first year I think my car has been prepped well enough to take it to some Tours. Definitely going to San Diego, almost definitely going to Farmington, hopefully Vail Valley, and it'll be my first trip to Nationals. I'll probably hit a couple of the divisionals in CA as well, those sound like a good time. I have a good co-driver lined up, and I think he'll help me get up to speed a little quicker than on my own.
We're planning on zero tire testing, waiting for those with more money to do it for us. :P We'll be sticking with Dunlops unless one of the new tires is clearly faster. I'm guessing the Yok will be fastest, but ugh, the price.
We're planning on zero tire testing, waiting for those with more money to do it for us. :P We'll be sticking with Dunlops unless one of the new tires is clearly faster. I'm guessing the Yok will be fastest, but ugh, the price.
Jan 2, 2009, 04:31 PM
#14
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: OH
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Assuming my job situation is okay come next season, I'm in. Although, I guess that goes for most of us. 
I won't have a fully-prepped car for the '09 season, but I'll be focusing on the basic suspension parts and running a few Tour/Pro events. Toledo Pro for sure (basically down the street for me), maybe Peru depending how busy my 4th of July is. Maybe DC Pro or Finger Lakes tour (if it goes through).
What should be done by season start:
Suspension: KW Clubsport coilovers, 8k/11k springs; Whiteline rear bar; Whiteline trailing arm bushings.
Alignment: -3 to -3.5 camber F / -1 to -1.5 camber R / 0 toe all around.
Wheels: 17x9 FN01RCs w/ AD08s probably, unless AD07s go on clearance at Tire Rack for a good price.
Engine: Stock.
I've been tossing around the idea of Ohlins DFVs instead of the KWs, but I'm not convinced I need to spend $3k for single-adjustables, even though the dyno graphs of the Ohlins look better than what I've seen for KW. But since I was somewhat spoiled by the Koni 8611s I had on my old 240, I'm thinking that the double-adjustable KWs would still be better simply due to their double-adjustable-ness.
Probably by mid-season I'll throw on a TBE and a tune, too, if budget allows.
I won't have a fully-prepped car for the '09 season, but I'll be focusing on the basic suspension parts and running a few Tour/Pro events. Toledo Pro for sure (basically down the street for me), maybe Peru depending how busy my 4th of July is. Maybe DC Pro or Finger Lakes tour (if it goes through).
What should be done by season start:
Suspension: KW Clubsport coilovers, 8k/11k springs; Whiteline rear bar; Whiteline trailing arm bushings.
Alignment: -3 to -3.5 camber F / -1 to -1.5 camber R / 0 toe all around.
Wheels: 17x9 FN01RCs w/ AD08s probably, unless AD07s go on clearance at Tire Rack for a good price.
Engine: Stock.
I've been tossing around the idea of Ohlins DFVs instead of the KWs, but I'm not convinced I need to spend $3k for single-adjustables, even though the dyno graphs of the Ohlins look better than what I've seen for KW. But since I was somewhat spoiled by the Koni 8611s I had on my old 240, I'm thinking that the double-adjustable KWs would still be better simply due to their double-adjustable-ness.
Probably by mid-season I'll throw on a TBE and a tune, too, if budget allows.