What other mods do I need to get ready for trackdays?
#46
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If I may, in regard to the brake fade issue you are concerned about. The car is relatively heavy, if you are threshold braking at every turn for multiple laps I don't think there is a brake pad/cooling duct combination that can save you. Even professional drivers in expensive race cars have to conserve brakes. A few hard laps followed by an 80% lap does wonders. You will figure out the braking limits pretty quick I think. As long as you are reasonable about it you shouldn't have any problems.
#47
I'm def not the fastest HPDE participant out there, but I used R-compound tires, 2-piece front rotors, Hawk HT-14 front pads, stainless lines, and Motul RBF600, but no cooling ducts and stock calipers ... and I was able to brake what seemed to me to be deep and hard for full 25 min sessions all day without any noticeable fade ... sure, my front calipers are now a dark chocolate brown color, but I didn't detect any noticeable fade ... also, the Evo is a heavy car and goes through front pads really quickly if braking hard consistently ... after 3 track days and a few thousand miles of street use, my HT-14 front pads had minimal material left and had to be replaced ... at $250 for a set of front pads every 3 track days, the cost of front pads alone adds up quickly!!
#48
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Mojo, that sucks...but if it's a reality, good to know up front.
SoCal...yeah the EVO is proving to cost quite a bit more than the bikes I used to track, oh well...the price u pay for a nice steel cage around u, haha.
FWIW- had a local shop install front and rear swaybars yesterday. I meant for them to only install the FSB, but it was a deal I could pass up for the set.
On the ride home, w/ stock KYBs/Springs and all seasons I honestly could tell a difference that the sways were there on either bumpy roads (which is a good thing, I guess the sways don't affect cars uneven road handling like I was told it might) or through the corners (a bad thing. While the HD Bilsteins and GTWORX springs will make the biggest difference in the handling, I thought just the sways would of given me ~some~ extra roll resistance through the corners.) I assume the shop put the RSB on the softest setting, but I have to confirm.
The car is back at the shop today with the Innovate LC-1 manual and the wideband install guide from Vishnutuning.com:
http://www.vishnutuning.com/Smart/wi...stallation.htm
I hope he can figure out what my trouble is with the wideband...it's kinda important for tuning this wknd haha.
SoCal...yeah the EVO is proving to cost quite a bit more than the bikes I used to track, oh well...the price u pay for a nice steel cage around u, haha.
FWIW- had a local shop install front and rear swaybars yesterday. I meant for them to only install the FSB, but it was a deal I could pass up for the set.
On the ride home, w/ stock KYBs/Springs and all seasons I honestly could tell a difference that the sways were there on either bumpy roads (which is a good thing, I guess the sways don't affect cars uneven road handling like I was told it might) or through the corners (a bad thing. While the HD Bilsteins and GTWORX springs will make the biggest difference in the handling, I thought just the sways would of given me ~some~ extra roll resistance through the corners.) I assume the shop put the RSB on the softest setting, but I have to confirm.
The car is back at the shop today with the Innovate LC-1 manual and the wideband install guide from Vishnutuning.com:
http://www.vishnutuning.com/Smart/wi...stallation.htm
I hope he can figure out what my trouble is with the wideband...it's kinda important for tuning this wknd haha.
#49
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data logging
This is the cheapest decent one we use on our motorcycles, not sure what is popular for cars:
http://www.motorcycletoystore.com/sp...mer/p_204.html
http://www.motorcycletoystore.com/sp...mer/p_204.html
I got a PDA on ebay for 80 bucks (new you can get used and new anywhere from 50 - 400)
The receiver was 65
the software was 45
total cost with shipping <$200.
I bought a case, windsheild mount, and roof mount (for receiver) so total now under $300!!!!
you cannot find that anywhere.
#50
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I'm def not the fastest HPDE participant out there, but I used R-compound tires, 2-piece front rotors, Hawk HT-14 front pads, stainless lines, and Motul RBF600, but no cooling ducts and stock calipers ... and I was able to brake what seemed to me to be deep and hard for full 25 min sessions all day without any noticeable fade ... sure, my front calipers are now a dark chocolate brown color, but I didn't detect any noticeable fade ... also, the Evo is a heavy car and goes through front pads really quickly if braking hard consistently ... after 3 track days and a few thousand miles of street use, my HT-14 front pads had minimal material left and had to be replaced ... at $250 for a set of front pads every 3 track days, the cost of front pads alone adds up quickly!!
To me brakes are the best investment you can make for road racing, followed by handling mods. Last on the list would be extra power but once you get bored with what you have you can add balanced amounts as long as the car is still reliable. I also like enjoying the car on the street so spending money on track days and mods in a balanced approach isn't a horrible way to do it as long as you can keep the car on the pavement.
#51
Interesting, I may have to do some research into the ST-43s. I am going to try Porterfield R4s next since I got a good deal on a new F/R set from an ex-Evo owner. I am happy with the braking capabilities of the Hawk HT-14s, and also with the rotor wear, but at $250 for a set of front pads every 3-4 track days, it would be nice if I could find some better wearing pads with similar braking capabilities.
#52
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Last night TheShopCT stayed late and troubleshot my wideband LC-1 troubles...all is well now and I am ready to tune this wknd after my installs!
Much thanks to TheShopCT for bending over backwards for me.
Tonight I'll remove the front bumper and the wheels to get ready for the marathon on Friday night with SmikeEvo. I'll also stop by the grocery store for his requested "Red Bull and Steak."
Much thanks to TheShopCT for bending over backwards for me.
Tonight I'll remove the front bumper and the wheels to get ready for the marathon on Friday night with SmikeEvo. I'll also stop by the grocery store for his requested "Red Bull and Steak."
#53
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Last night TheShopCT stayed late and troubleshot my wideband LC-1 troubles...all is well now and I am ready to tune this wknd after my installs!
Much thanks to TheShopCT for bending over backwards for me.
Tonight I'll remove the front bumper and the wheels to get ready for the marathon on Friday night with SmikeEvo. I'll also stop by the grocery store for his requested "Red Bull and Steak."
Much thanks to TheShopCT for bending over backwards for me.
Tonight I'll remove the front bumper and the wheels to get ready for the marathon on Friday night with SmikeEvo. I'll also stop by the grocery store for his requested "Red Bull and Steak."
-Alex@ECS
#54
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Twas a mystery....
They checked the wiring but found nothing out of place.
on my end of things, I had the same laptop, but all I did was upgrade to latest version of EvoScan (which shouldn't of made a difference either).
So who knows at this point and I'm not asking questions. Just gotta let the car sit over night and recalibrate tomorrow.
They checked the wiring but found nothing out of place.
on my end of things, I had the same laptop, but all I did was upgrade to latest version of EvoScan (which shouldn't of made a difference either).
So who knows at this point and I'm not asking questions. Just gotta let the car sit over night and recalibrate tomorrow.
#55
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Received the Joe P. MBC today in the mail:
I went with the Joe P. for the following reasons:
-I've read it's is simple and reliable.
-A trusted friend recommended it.
-It was inexpensive and won't lose much $ when I offload it for ECU-based boost control.
I still want to do ECU-based boost control as I believe in it's benefits over MBC. (to each his own on that topic. ) BUT, I also know it takes more time to learn ECU-based over MBC and the learning curve is steeper for it over MBC. Plus, I want to play with my new mods now! So I will install the MBC, emjoy my mods immediately with a tune for them, and lessen the initial learning curve on self-tuning.
I went with the Joe P. for the following reasons:
-I've read it's is simple and reliable.
-A trusted friend recommended it.
-It was inexpensive and won't lose much $ when I offload it for ECU-based boost control.
I still want to do ECU-based boost control as I believe in it's benefits over MBC. (to each his own on that topic. ) BUT, I also know it takes more time to learn ECU-based over MBC and the learning curve is steeper for it over MBC. Plus, I want to play with my new mods now! So I will install the MBC, emjoy my mods immediately with a tune for them, and lessen the initial learning curve on self-tuning.
#56
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Well 90% of my build is done, u can check it out here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-smikeevo.html
Thanks for everyone's help!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-smikeevo.html
Thanks for everyone's help!
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