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Brake cooling methods - which is best?

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Old May 6, 2009 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
nothere's Avatar
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From: Bellevue. WA
since I have never noticed the rears locking up before the fronts I started running the same pad front and rear. no sense loosing some braking effort.
never tried the dtc 60, went straight to dtc 70 which I really like. the 60's are prolly fine too.

I do find that the hp's work well, as far as alternate bedding in, with the dtc's.
That is something I could not say about the ferrado3000s and street pads.
Old May 6, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #32  
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
So many people are confused in this thread

He's not having braking issues in terms of performance. He's concerned about the wear of the hoses, on a ducting kit already in use on the car. He doesn't need a kit - it's there already, he just wants better life out of the ducting hoses.

Solution: Come over to my house. I've got extra ducting hose, and I'll check your routing to see if it's a problem. Send me a PM yo.

PS - the Mitsu air guides are nothing compared to ducts. Huge upgrade using the ducts, been there.
Old May 7, 2009 | 07:28 AM
  #33  
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From: In da streetz
^ thats a good solution right there

I've had this idea in my head for a great BDCK for about a year now. Its unlike anything I've seen for the EVO yet. Finally ordered all the parts I need, everything is sitting in my garage, now its just a matter of finding time to design/install everything.
Old May 7, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #34  
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From: On the track
I think a better solution would be to remove the hose kit and install a real track pad.
Old May 7, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #35  
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From: Hermosa Beach, CA
The Mitsu air guides do help, but they won't be nearly as effective as a proper duct setup.

I had the air guides on my car and trimmed some of the undertray to get some more air flow to them. If you'll notice, the undertray has built-in channels directing air to the guides, but the front the channel has a lip. So I trimmed that off.

I encountered an interesting effect with the air guides; I only got half the wear on the inner pads (side with the air guides) as opposed to the outer pads. I thought that maybe it was a fluke and the caliper was stuck or something, but it was on both sides of the car.
Old May 26, 2009 | 12:54 AM
  #36  
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From: Norman, OK
i made my own brake ducts for 10 bucks lol, they work great, ill get some pics up soon.
Old May 27, 2009 | 03:08 PM
  #37  
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From: Harrisburg PA
Go with Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rears!!
Old May 27, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #38  
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From: Rochester, NY
With enlarged brake guides I still had some issues at Watkins Glen this last weekend. I'm using Raybestos ST43 pads and they gripped fine even hot but the stock rotors started to shake at higher temps and have remained slightly warped on the street now. I'm going to have to setup a full air ducting system and look at replacing my front rotors with Girodisc 2 piece that should hold up better to the abuse.
Old May 27, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #39  
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From: On the track
^ I ran ST43s last weekend as well.... They didn't have the initial bite that the XP12s had but they didn't wear nearly as fast either. Even the rotors look good. I'm running cheap no name rotors and didn't have any problems. My biggest fight is with brake fluid.... its fine on track or with a long cool down lap but if I don't get a decent cool down upon entering the pits I will lose the pedal.

I've tried the mitsu guides and I have a friend with the a front mounted ducting system.... those don't seem to proivde the returns one would expect. Below is a picture of his Brembos.... the were bright red prior to this lapping day. I'm thinking a better rotor might be the best upgrade.
Old May 27, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #40  
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From: Bellevue. WA
Jeff that ducting looks like its hurting more than helping, but two piece rotors may help a little.
Old May 27, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #41  
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From: On the track
I'm almost sure a quality two piece or directional vane rotor would be better but at over $300 for set they are 3x more expensive than cheap ebay solids.

I just cannot justify the expense for minimal return..... instead I just run hard for a few laps than take an easy lap.... you can do that during an HPDE.

The true racing folks probably have a much larger budget than I do. They can run BBK's and fancy rotors!
Old May 27, 2009 | 08:20 PM
  #42  
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From: Chicago
For my AMS ducting I use some heavy duty duct tap to clean up tears. A decent amount of my tubing is tape now but it works great and the tape is tougher than the original tube! I would try to keep tape a good deal away from the actual calipers tough or the heat might do bad things to them...
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