Heat checked rotors
#1
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Heat checked rotors
Does anyone have rotors with heat checks like this?
I do a number of track days using hawk DTC-60 pads. Good stopping power, no grooved or worn rotors but I'm concerned these may be a problem in the future.
Anyone?
Oh, I should mention, these are stock oem rotors.
I do a number of track days using hawk DTC-60 pads. Good stopping power, no grooved or worn rotors but I'm concerned these may be a problem in the future.
Anyone?
Oh, I should mention, these are stock oem rotors.
Last edited by riksride; Jun 3, 2009 at 12:37 PM.
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My fronts started looking like that when I switched them to 2 piece. Not sure but it def looks like deterioration to me. I would not worry but be prepared to have another set on hand.
#7
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Yup they deff look like cracks with brake dust buried in them. Happens when you superheat metals that arn't designed for that temp. Also based on the markings of the rotor it's not all made from the same material either, which is also why you have hundreds of tiny cracks rather then a few dozen. DTC's are good pads so they didn't do it. If you keep it up the cracks will just get deeper and spread. I see these on the SCCA cars all the time, hence why they have like 6 PAIRS spare in the trailer (forced to use oem style in most classes). Time for some properly designed racing rotors.
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Do you have brake ducts ? The oem rotors are a softer blend of metal than a "performance" rotor..so the more aggressive the pad the hotter the rotor..and the stock rotors will hold the heat much longer so it will travel deeper into the metal. Then the braking surface cools faster and the tiny cracks appear. If you have brake ducts (or not) it is possible to cool the whole rotor to quickly and that is when they are most likely to crack/split. When you upgrade to different rotors you can usally find the "formula" they used when they made the rotors. That really is the magic in getting the best from any brakes..the balance between heat and torque. Pete
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I just ordered a 'blanks' from the guys at Evobrakes (aka knsbrakes.com) as replacements. They supply rotors to Marty in his SCCA T2 Evo so I'm sure they're up to my 15min TT/TA sessions.
I considered the DBA 5000's they also carried but they're about 3x as much really.
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I initially tracked my OEM rotors, but picked up a set of SP Performance slotted front rotors from a friend and ran them for about 10 track days or so. Now they are severely spider cracked and there are actual cracks starting to lead away from the slots. I think they're toast. I'll get ya some pics in a day or so (sorry).
I just ordered a 'blanks' from the guys at Evobrakes (aka knsbrakes.com) as replacements. They supply rotors to Marty in his SCCA T2 Evo so I'm sure they're up to my 15min TT/TA sessions.
I considered the DBA 5000's they also carried but they're about 3x as much really.
I just ordered a 'blanks' from the guys at Evobrakes (aka knsbrakes.com) as replacements. They supply rotors to Marty in his SCCA T2 Evo so I'm sure they're up to my 15min TT/TA sessions.
I considered the DBA 5000's they also carried but they're about 3x as much really.
#15
Yes those are def heat cracks and as Boom29 was saying, as long as the cracks are not to the outside of the rotor you should be fine. I use one set of rotors per race for the most part unless its a track like VIR that is easy on them. I race for 40 minutes at over 3500#s so that is not easy on stock brakes. Keep in mind there are several blank rotors you can get from Ken, just tell him the application and he will tell you which ones he recommends. As you can guess the price does go up as the rotors get better. In scca we can not use slots or anything but having the biggest heat sink is a good thing. We tried out some economy rotors last race and they cracked all the way through after one race and 2 qual sessions-those I will not be using again. Oh and remember to bed in your brakes properly, keep in mind you are not only taking care of your pads by doing this, but your rotors as well. This includes taking that nice long slow lap back to the pits trying to keep off the brakes as much as possible. This cooling should help with the heat cracks.
Marty
Marty