Jarrod contacted the brake manufacture today. The warranty is over but they were very good to deal with. They do not recommend cross drilled rotors for track use and do not recommend the pad we were running. It would have been nice if the company we bought them through had been a little more aware of the what was going on so this wouldn't have happened but it all good. $170 to replace both rotors and sending some race pads they suggest with them, slotted only.

The EVOX I didn't get too, too busy. Tomorrow.............hoping for the best but don't really care what it is either.

bueller, I am with you 100% on moving slowly. I have done that. My goal from day one was to get my TT license. I've been offered to be moved up, rushed through and signed off on by a few instructors and have stuck with, "I'm moving up when I am confident and know it's time that I "deserve" to move up." As I said in the first post, the weekend I was ready to move to HPDE4 I had two seperate instructors ride with me to get both their feed back. When I moved from 2 to 3 I found an instructor I didn't know, asked him to take a ride. I wanted no favors, favors don't make you better or faster.

It's been good, the NASA program is one of the best I have ever seen. The only down side is "friends" moving their friends through the groups faster than they should be moved.

 

So sorry to hear about the bad luck with both cars. I can't wait to hear what you find out caused the overheating as I'm building my car for NASA TT and don't want to worry about running into a similar issue. Do you have an upgraded intercooler? It may be possible the radiator isn't getting enough air for cooling because of a large intercooler not letting enough air get to it. Just a thought. Let us know and congratulations on the good times

 

I guess I'm basing it more on my experience with the 4G63 and a 96 Eclipse GSX. The heads were know to lift and stretch the stock bolts in some cases causing a tiny temporary leak from the combustion chambers to the cooling system where the head gasket was damaged. In it's early stages it was a royal PITA to diagnose!

Knock on wood the 4B11 has been faithfull to me as well and your 8000+ track miles at higher boost seems to indicate that the factory head bolts and head gasket are quite solid! That said they are still made by Mitsubishi and not all cars are created equal or "Wednesday cars". It was mainly just a worst case scenario for Dave to look into if nothing out of the ordinary appeared otherwise.

Let us know what you find on the Evo X Dave as prevention is usually cheaper than the cure.

 

Cmon...you can't seriously base your "stretch prone" head bolt theory off a 13 year platform that isn't even relevant to the 4B11t. The rods in my '08 F350 Power Stroke have gone twice in 60k miles...must mean the rods in the 4B11t are weak too..

Haha j/k, but really that kinda mis-information doesn't need to be spread for no reason.

Best of luck.

 

I wasn't stating it was necessarily happening on Evo's but Mitsu is Mitsu and ever since my issues many years ago I just haven't totally trusted Head bolts as much as I would trust a good set of ARP studs because of the different clamping capabilities. If I remember correctly the 4G63 engine in the Turbo Eclipse had "torque to yield" head bolts so you could only really use them once. I have no idea what style head bolts are in the Evo 8/9 let alone the Evo X so will let someone else educate me.

A quick search yielded that at least Evo 8/9's can get stretched head bolts assuming Lancershop isn't just basing this off previous generation 4G63's:

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...p?productid=76

They warn of not replacing the head bolts one at a time with studs with the head on the car, although I've had success in the past with that I can understand why it would be risky. Any word on what is up with the car Dave?

I'm glad that you are pushing the limits on these cars so that we have some solid data on how well they can hold up though!

 

The car lives. We pulled it out of the trailer yesterday, it started right up. Drove it home, no problems. Was full of water too. Appears to have just overheated and that's it. I drove it to breakfast this morning, perfect. Came out after breakfast and it won't start. My brother came and grabbed me with a strap and pulled it to the shop.

Engine seems to be fine and I am pretty amazed that it is. I have to see why it won't start but it's gotta be something minor.

 

The fact that it worked fine after cooling down seems like a good sign that it just ran out of cooling capacity under heavy track use. Seems odd that it suddenly wouldn't start, let us know what you find, hopefully something minor as you said.

 

great writeup... i was at watkins glen this past weekend...and noticed my coolant temps were halfway between normal and H and as i started to slow down and just about to throw it in neutral hard a loud noise from motor.. only to find out a whole in the block... guess you were more lucky then me,dave.... figures the one time i didnt check the gauge on the straight the motor blows... guess i will need that bigger radiator and oil cooler now as well as motor and heating ducts for the brakes..

 

Let me know on the engine, I'd like to build one for you given you are putting it through it's paces on a road course. Sorry to hear about it.

 

pmd ya

 

Answered ya

 

lol, did that last month.

Heavy plus driven hard plus power = broken brakes.

I've gotten used to it.

 

Where have you been for the past few months in my life! This is exactly where I am. I think I'm pressurizing the coolant system on long pulls at 23psi which is blowing out coolant which is causing more heat load. I've upgraded the cooling system to no avail. lol my last ditch effort was to fix exhaust leaks hoping that was heating up the rad on long pulls. If that didn't do it I'm headed down the road of getting a new gasket. I've had ARP studs from day 1. Who knows.. maybe I messed something up on the 1X1 method.

edit: btw, just to share best practices: Someone suggested to me to run the overflow hose (a lengthended one) up to the windshield to see when it is overflowing. I did that and wow, it opened my eyes. After it blasts out a couple of times I take a cool down lap and pull off to pre-empt the inevitable overheating.

 

It was good to see ya last weekend Dave. I wondered where you went; I didn't know you were having car problems. I split the slotted rotors on mine when I was doing the TT thing, and from what I understand it's pretty common for the Corvette guys to have the same problem. I hope the X is ok, when do you think your next event might be? The August MO event is the same weekend as the SO. Again.

 

What was the event called at Mid-Ohio? Are they having any more of these coming up? I'd like to see some Evos run in a road race.