Hot Brakes - Undertray the cause?
#16
bump in case there's an update to this thread.
I have the exact same setup (DTC60, motul, Forged ducting kit, ss lines) minus the beatrush tray, and am considering getting the tray ... unless it's introducing more issues that weren't solved.
any updates from later in the season?
I have the exact same setup (DTC60, motul, Forged ducting kit, ss lines) minus the beatrush tray, and am considering getting the tray ... unless it's introducing more issues that weren't solved.
any updates from later in the season?
#17
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From: Springfield, IL
bump in case there's an update to this thread.
I have the exact same setup (DTC60, motul, Forged ducting kit, ss lines) minus the beatrush tray, and am considering getting the tray ... unless it's introducing more issues that weren't solved.
any updates from later in the season?
I have the exact same setup (DTC60, motul, Forged ducting kit, ss lines) minus the beatrush tray, and am considering getting the tray ... unless it's introducing more issues that weren't solved.
any updates from later in the season?
I do want to use the tray though. I definitely think it'll reduce overall wind resistance and protect the underneath from debris that might get kicked up.
My winter plans include a complete rerouting of the brake ducting. That's really the only logical explanation, in that the brake ducting just wasn't allowing enough air flow through.
#18
That's really weird! I was planning on gettin gthis undertray, I never heard anything about this before.
I wonder if I'll have the same effect.
Keep us posted!
I wonder if this will change with stock brake set ups
I wonder if I'll have the same effect.
Keep us posted!
I wonder if this will change with stock brake set ups
#19
I put on the APR undertray/diff last month and attached "sacrafical" home depot ducts with the same size output as the AMS plumbing and riveted them to the back BOTTOM of the tray. Since it's a race car the only issues I have are when i'm loading/unloading it on the trailer, I have to take it slow as it clears by a few centimeters. If I catch debris on-track it's an easy and cheap fix. Also, I get a metric ton of air from that low pressure area because it took almost 3 laps to get my brakes up to temp rather then the 1.
#20
If I were you, i'd move to the 3" tubing. I havent ever heard of teams using any size less for braking.
Try to stay away from using ducts mounted under the car. We tried a similar set-up on a GT3 car and with the help of temp probes found that it was actually heating the brakes because they were just above the asphalt and sucking the "heat" put off by the surface.
Also, have you looked into using in-line fans? They are pretty cheap and incredibly effective.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product They can be found cheaper then this, I just grabbed this link quickly. Just wire it to a positive source, mount a switch in the car, and you're good to go.
Try to stay away from using ducts mounted under the car. We tried a similar set-up on a GT3 car and with the help of temp probes found that it was actually heating the brakes because they were just above the asphalt and sucking the "heat" put off by the surface.
Also, have you looked into using in-line fans? They are pretty cheap and incredibly effective.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product They can be found cheaper then this, I just grabbed this link quickly. Just wire it to a positive source, mount a switch in the car, and you're good to go.
#21
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From: Springfield, IL
I put on the APR undertray/diff last month and attached "sacrafical" home depot ducts with the same size output as the AMS plumbing and riveted them to the back BOTTOM of the tray. Since it's a race car the only issues I have are when i'm loading/unloading it on the trailer, I have to take it slow as it clears by a few centimeters. If I catch debris on-track it's an easy and cheap fix. Also, I get a metric ton of air from that low pressure area because it took almost 3 laps to get my brakes up to temp rather then the 1.
#23
Dam that weird, I have the undertray and I have not experiance any of those problem's, but then again I really don't use brake's that much. I did the Redline time attack in NJ and didn't have any issues.
#24
#25
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From: Springfield, IL
Here's the crazy part - it's the same exact track and same extra straight-away I had the big issue a few weeks later!
Like I said though, I ripped off the undertray and everything was great the rest of the year. I also switched to AMSoil DOT4 brake fluid and I like it better as well.
#27
Sharkbite, no offense, but you weren't pushing hard enough at that event to overheat the brakes.
I have had brake overheating issues WITHOUT an undertray... go figure
I do not currently run ducting and have not had any issues since going with the undertray, running Racing Brake ET800s and ATE Superblue. I have since upgraded to stainless steel brake lines, but have not been to the track since these upgrades. My calipers front and rear are untouched too, no new seals or any changes besides fresh fluid ALL the time.
Dan
I have had brake overheating issues WITHOUT an undertray... go figure
I do not currently run ducting and have not had any issues since going with the undertray, running Racing Brake ET800s and ATE Superblue. I have since upgraded to stainless steel brake lines, but have not been to the track since these upgrades. My calipers front and rear are untouched too, no new seals or any changes besides fresh fluid ALL the time.
Dan
#28
Sharkbite, no offense, but you weren't pushing hard enough at that event to overheat the brakes.
I have had brake overheating issues WITHOUT an undertray... go figure
I do not currently run ducting and have not had any issues since going with the undertray, running Racing Brake ET800s and ATE Superblue. I have since upgraded to stainless steel brake lines, but have not been to the track since these upgrades. My calipers front and rear are untouched too, no new seals or any changes besides fresh fluid ALL the time.
Dan
I have had brake overheating issues WITHOUT an undertray... go figure
I do not currently run ducting and have not had any issues since going with the undertray, running Racing Brake ET800s and ATE Superblue. I have since upgraded to stainless steel brake lines, but have not been to the track since these upgrades. My calipers front and rear are untouched too, no new seals or any changes besides fresh fluid ALL the time.
Dan
But I did use them, I needed new brake pad's and new fluid the very next day I didn't even want to use them on the NJ pike because they was squeaking like crazy!!!
#29
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From: Springfield, IL
Going to give this thread a bump.
Talked to a few people about the braking issues I experienced last year after installing the Beatrush undertray. I seem to be in the severe minority and I'm not exactly sure why.
I would like to re-install the tray for this season but I'm obviously hesitant of encouraging over-heating issues again. Open to more ideas!
Talked to a few people about the braking issues I experienced last year after installing the Beatrush undertray. I seem to be in the severe minority and I'm not exactly sure why.
I would like to re-install the tray for this season but I'm obviously hesitant of encouraging over-heating issues again. Open to more ideas!
Sure. I ran the rest of the season without the Beatrush undertray - with zero issues.
I do want to use the tray though. I definitely think it'll reduce overall wind resistance and protect the underneath from debris that might get kicked up.
My winter plans include a complete rerouting of the brake ducting. That's really the only logical explanation, in that the brake ducting just wasn't allowing enough air flow through.
I do want to use the tray though. I definitely think it'll reduce overall wind resistance and protect the underneath from debris that might get kicked up.
My winter plans include a complete rerouting of the brake ducting. That's really the only logical explanation, in that the brake ducting just wasn't allowing enough air flow through.