Nasa tts class
Oct 13, 2009, 12:59 PM
#16
That 3,210ibs includes no gas, me in a sparco 1 piece racing seat, g-force 5pt harnesses.. It does not include a passenger seat or passenger harness.. The helmet doesnt weight to much..
I thought the min. comp. weight is the absolute smallest amount of weight you can have wth the driver. So I assumed this meant no gas.. I did weight it will half a tank and it weighed out to 3,258ibs
I thought the min. comp. weight is the absolute smallest amount of weight you can have wth the driver. So I assumed this meant no gas.. I did weight it will half a tank and it weighed out to 3,258ibs
And you're exactly right about the 'min competition weight' there. But if you've spent anytime on a road course and taken a hard right hander; you'll know what I mean about the fuel!!
Oct 13, 2009, 01:06 PM
#17
I race in Super Touring 2. The equivalent TT class to my race class is TTS. For every PT, ST, and SU race class there is an equivalent TT class. NASA has it setup that way so that TT guys can easily transition into racing if thats something they want to do some day.
TTS = ST2
TTU = ST1
TTR = SU
TTS = ST2
TTU = ST1
TTR = SU
Any issues in your longer races with heat out there in CA?
Oct 13, 2009, 01:10 PM
#18
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some quick pics..
The interior is still a project that needs to be tackled.. Its proving more difficult that I originally thought it would be
The interior is still a project that needs to be tackled.. Its proving more difficult that I originally thought it would be
Oct 13, 2009, 01:42 PM
#19
Pick up the tts/r/u classification and rules form on the website, and you'll see all the rules. Basically you can do just about anything so long as your hp/weight + misc points match up (see boom's notes). So yes you can do a CF roof. A red on a stock 2.0 with low boost is quite inefficient, unless you want to build for TTU. From the looks of things your half way between U and S, so I'd make my decision and then design towards that. But remember with U though, your gonna spend a lot more dough to be up front. Your going to need massive aero, and better brakes to stay up with those cars.
Also, as you might have seen/heard/been told before, a "bolt in" cage is frowned upon in almost every club, however it's better then none as a lot of the TT guys lack. So my advice:
1. Put the stock turbo back on if your sticking with a 2.0
2. Get weight down so that you can keep the boost below ~28 psi
3. Weld in the cage or tac even, or build a custom one.
4. Get a nice racing seat WITHOUT the adjustable rails (they will move, and they put you up higher)
5. Get a nice fire bottle or better yet a system, cheap insurance if you get hit or hit someone or a wall or catch on fire due to leak, etc etc etc etc
6. Use a hans or simular device with your helmet/harness
7. Have someone sort out your alignment and corner weight for the tires you get.
8. If you have the money, get a traqmate or simular so you can coach yourself.
9. Depending on your region's weather, a coolsuit is the best driver assist ever.
10. Lots of gauges so you can monitor your car easily while on track.
Also, as you might have seen/heard/been told before, a "bolt in" cage is frowned upon in almost every club, however it's better then none as a lot of the TT guys lack. So my advice:
1. Put the stock turbo back on if your sticking with a 2.0
2. Get weight down so that you can keep the boost below ~28 psi
3. Weld in the cage or tac even, or build a custom one.
4. Get a nice racing seat WITHOUT the adjustable rails (they will move, and they put you up higher)
5. Get a nice fire bottle or better yet a system, cheap insurance if you get hit or hit someone or a wall or catch on fire due to leak, etc etc etc etc
6. Use a hans or simular device with your helmet/harness
7. Have someone sort out your alignment and corner weight for the tires you get.
8. If you have the money, get a traqmate or simular so you can coach yourself.
9. Depending on your region's weather, a coolsuit is the best driver assist ever.
10. Lots of gauges so you can monitor your car easily while on track.
Oct 13, 2009, 01:51 PM
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Other than that i have been racing on my OEM Evo 9 turbo for all my Socal Regional races. I was never maxed out with that setup for any of my ST2 races. I dont have the data with me, but my w/p was never close to 8.7. The lowest w/p i ran was during my ACS races, which was probably somewhere around 9.5. At my BRP and Big Willow races i was anywhere from 9.8-10.3. So i was never close to our limit of 8.7.
As for the heat, i never had any heat issues in any of my races. And the hottest races i had were at Big Willow where temps were in the low 90s.
Oct 13, 2009, 02:25 PM
#21
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Pick up the tts/r/u classification and rules form on the website, and you'll see all the rules. Basically you can do just about anything so long as your hp/weight + misc points match up (see boom's notes). So yes you can do a CF roof. A red on a stock 2.0 with low boost is quite inefficient, unless you want to build for TTU. From the looks of things your half way between U and S, so I'd make my decision and then design towards that. But remember with U though, your gonna spend a lot more dough to be up front. Your going to need massive aero, and better brakes to stay up with those cars.
Also, as you might have seen/heard/been told before, a "bolt in" cage is frowned upon in almost every club, however it's better then none as a lot of the TT guys lack. So my advice:
1. Put the stock turbo back on if your sticking with a 2.0
2. Get weight down so that you can keep the boost below ~28 psi
3. Weld in the cage or tac even, or build a custom one.
4. Get a nice racing seat WITHOUT the adjustable rails (they will move, and they put you up higher)
5. Get a nice fire bottle or better yet a system, cheap insurance if you get hit or hit someone or a wall or catch on fire due to leak, etc etc etc etc
6. Use a hans or simular device with your helmet/harness
7. Have someone sort out your alignment and corner weight for the tires you get.
8. If you have the money, get a traqmate or simular so you can coach yourself.
9. Depending on your region's weather, a coolsuit is the best driver assist ever.
10. Lots of gauges so you can monitor your car easily while on track.
Also, as you might have seen/heard/been told before, a "bolt in" cage is frowned upon in almost every club, however it's better then none as a lot of the TT guys lack. So my advice:
1. Put the stock turbo back on if your sticking with a 2.0
2. Get weight down so that you can keep the boost below ~28 psi
3. Weld in the cage or tac even, or build a custom one.
4. Get a nice racing seat WITHOUT the adjustable rails (they will move, and they put you up higher)
5. Get a nice fire bottle or better yet a system, cheap insurance if you get hit or hit someone or a wall or catch on fire due to leak, etc etc etc etc
6. Use a hans or simular device with your helmet/harness
7. Have someone sort out your alignment and corner weight for the tires you get.
8. If you have the money, get a traqmate or simular so you can coach yourself.
9. Depending on your region's weather, a coolsuit is the best driver assist ever.
10. Lots of gauges so you can monitor your car easily while on track.
.. I actually picked up a brand new Red for $1,800 with manifolds, SS oil lines and everything..I was going to replace the roll cage but I picked that one up for $300 almost new. I was actually thinking of welding it like you said... I want to elimite the seat bracket setup I have now.. Actually its not adjustable. i mated 1/4 6061 aluminum plates to the lower portion of the factory rails.. Im not sure how to get it lower though.
Im really on a tight budget. I shouldnt be doing this but its my dream and i have the passion to make it happen.. And a coolsuit is a must in the southeast in summer
Oct 13, 2009, 02:28 PM
#22
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Also i was thinking that if I ran a 245.. Which would work better on the wheels I have, that I could take my weight down to 3,201 and still have 400hp.. This would make better use of the bigger turbo
Oct 13, 2009, 02:34 PM
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I'm on a similar (albeit delayed) path...
Started with an in tact wrecked Evo (parts sold from it more than paid for the car) and stripped it from head to toe
After looking at the options in terms of classing, TTS was where I wanted to be because the math is simple
Priorities..(order can vary based on check book balance)
1. Safety
2. Safety
3. Safety (did I mention safety?...)
4. Weight
5. Suspension
6. Tires
7. Brakes (only because I don't have the $$ yet for stoptech's)
8. Aero (work in progress, but this is where the flexibility of TTS is great)
9. Reliability mods
10. Engine and tuning
I'm hoping to get the car right around 2850 lbs dry; which if you saw the pile of metal and assorted junk that came out of the thing, is a realistic target.
I can essentially run a stock motor (saves money to throw away elsewhere) until it blows up, and then switch to a 2.4
TTS isn't the best place for an Evo and I know that; but if I focus on the biggest most important mod (the driver) it will be easy to measure improvement...
Started with an in tact wrecked Evo (parts sold from it more than paid for the car) and stripped it from head to toe
After looking at the options in terms of classing, TTS was where I wanted to be because the math is simple
Priorities..(order can vary based on check book balance)
1. Safety
2. Safety
3. Safety (did I mention safety?...)
4. Weight
5. Suspension
6. Tires
7. Brakes (only because I don't have the $$ yet for stoptech's)
8. Aero (work in progress, but this is where the flexibility of TTS is great)
9. Reliability mods
10. Engine and tuning
I'm hoping to get the car right around 2850 lbs dry; which if you saw the pile of metal and assorted junk that came out of the thing, is a realistic target.
I can essentially run a stock motor (saves money to throw away elsewhere) until it blows up, and then switch to a 2.4
TTS isn't the best place for an Evo and I know that; but if I focus on the biggest most important mod (the driver) it will be easy to measure improvement...
Oct 13, 2009, 02:37 PM
#24
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I'm on a similar (albeit delayed) path...
Started with an in tact wrecked Evo (parts sold from it more than paid for the car) and stripped it from head to toe
After looking at the options in terms of classing, TTS was where I wanted to be because the math is simple
Priorities..(order can vary based on check book balance)
1. Safety
2. Safety
3. Safety (did I mention safety?...)
4. Weight
5. Suspension
6. Tires
7. Brakes (only because I don't have the $$ yet for stoptech's)
8. Aero (work in progress, but this is where the flexibility of TTS is great)
9. Reliability mods
10. Engine and tuning
I'm hoping to get the car right around 2850 lbs dry; which if you saw the pile of metal and assorted junk that came out of the thing, is a realistic target.
I can essentially run a stock motor (saves money to throw away elsewhere) until it blows up, and then switch to a 2.4
TTS isn't the best place for an Evo and I know that; but if I focus on the biggest most important mod (the driver) it will be easy to measure improvement...
Started with an in tact wrecked Evo (parts sold from it more than paid for the car) and stripped it from head to toe
After looking at the options in terms of classing, TTS was where I wanted to be because the math is simple
Priorities..(order can vary based on check book balance)
1. Safety
2. Safety
3. Safety (did I mention safety?...)
4. Weight
5. Suspension
6. Tires
7. Brakes (only because I don't have the $$ yet for stoptech's)
8. Aero (work in progress, but this is where the flexibility of TTS is great)
9. Reliability mods
10. Engine and tuning
I'm hoping to get the car right around 2850 lbs dry; which if you saw the pile of metal and assorted junk that came out of the thing, is a realistic target.
I can essentially run a stock motor (saves money to throw away elsewhere) until it blows up, and then switch to a 2.4
TTS isn't the best place for an Evo and I know that; but if I focus on the biggest most important mod (the driver) it will be easy to measure improvement...
The first thing I got was that AutoPower NASA legal bolt in cage, then a pair of Sparco's, then 5pt harnesses that i made custom, welded in mounting plates for, then a quick release steering wheel.. Only thing I lack is a killswitch and a fire extingusher.. and possibly welding in the AutoPower cage or making a custom one like mentioned before
I dont have much as far as aero goes. I did manage to pick up a full set of StopTech BBK's and Brembo GT BBK's for just $400 off a rally team.. I got so lucky on that one. Funny thing is that I have had Evo guys tell me to go back to stock? I love these brakes.. What I have found is that the StopTech front bbk matched with the Brembo GT rear BBK lends itself to a very good balance. The rear end stepping out is eliminated and the transitions are smoother imo
At a dyno day at Draco Perfomance in Cornelious, NC.. I let an engineer who was there for Performance Friction drive my car.. He loved the balance, he was very suprised with the braking.. then he tried to sell me PF Pads, lol
Last edited by MitsoKid; Oct 13, 2009 at 02:43 PM.
Oct 13, 2009, 03:03 PM
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The only thing ive really spent money on in the past was on my suspension with another shop. That is another story in itself. Beyond that, ive really only spent money on safety gear (required for racing), and consumables. I just recently upgraded my turbo, but i only did it because it was through my sponsor. And i may not even keep this turbo. Beyond that the rest of my car overall is OEM...OEM aero, OEM diffs, OEM engine, and so forth. I have modified many things, but its been a gradual build that has been progressing. And ill be modifying it more accordingly.
Last edited by Bueller; Oct 13, 2009 at 03:06 PM.
Oct 13, 2009, 03:29 PM
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that sounds very realistic to me and goes along with what I think. The thing is, since I have to run new tires anyway, why not go with the proper size and get used to it.. Im not used to a 245, im used to a 255 or larger... So Im realistically reducing consumable cost and preparing myself for the small adjustment..
Also since I have a blown motor, I am going to up the compression ratio so off-boost response is better. That way I dont have to be all out in boost to have fun, which is my goal for the first year or so. This should make things a tad more reliable, not much, just a tad
After that I wouldnt mind getting a bit more serious about sponsors if I prove myself
Also since I have a blown motor, I am going to up the compression ratio so off-boost response is better. That way I dont have to be all out in boost to have fun, which is my goal for the first year or so. This should make things a tad more reliable, not much, just a tad
After that I wouldnt mind getting a bit more serious about sponsors if I prove myself
Oct 13, 2009, 03:42 PM
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As far as I can tell, one of the best turbo setups for TTS would be something like an FP Green. You want early spool to max out your torque and then taper towards redline to still come in under the HP limit. All this, while not pushing the turbo so hard that heat becomes an issue ... 
l8r)
l8r)
Oct 13, 2009, 03:49 PM
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As far as I can tell, one of the best turbo setups for TTS would be something like an FP Green. You want early spool to max out your torque and then taper towards redline to still come in under the HP limit. All this, while not pushing the turbo so hard that heat becomes an issue ...
l8r)
l8r)
- Bryan
Oct 13, 2009, 04:18 PM
#29
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yea see there is my problem.. on the red, right about where your turbo there is maxing out and starting to slope down, mine is just getting up to spool.. i have a sh*tton of top end though.. But no torque like you said
