MATT@WORKS

AWD should be able to go in WAY faster than RWD. Honestly, the car should be able to trail a ton of brakes into the corner, just like a FWD car. It should then [ideally] come off the corner all nice and tidy like a RWD car. If you can't carry your brakes into the corner, in most issues, almost to the apex, then something is wrong. It sounds like a rear ride height issue personally, but it's impossible to tell from a forum. Get some video, and even better, if you can get some data we could address the issue better.

awdboosted

iTrader: (30)

I wish I had data but I have nothing but my butt dyno or what ever that is for roadracing.

I think I'm gonna lower the rear and see if it improves.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

What's the ride height now? You could just try sticking a few fingers between the wheel and the fender and measure that way if nothing else.

Did Robi setup your KW's or did you just slap them on? I know they have a ton of adjustment and come severely out of whack from the factory sometimes.

awdboosted

iTrader: (30)

The KW are set up by him. But the height was set up by me. I can put a finger in the front and half of a finger in the back.. I think I'm gonna get the car corner weighting too.

MATT@WORKS

I don't recommend the finger technique-- you could have some really wild cross weight issues with that-- at LEAST use a ruler! Cross weight is confusing and very easy to mess up.

Loser

iTrader: (9)

Take a string and tie a bolt/nail to it. Now hold the top of the string against the rim of the fender so that the bolt/nail lines up against the hub/center of the wheel. Now measure the length of the string from the hub to the fender.

hamflex

iTrader: (18)

I have always counted the threads on my coilovers! Haha

On my clubsports it was 22 threads in the rear and 3 in front! Haha. I never had the car corner weighted on the KW's though. So I made it equal all the way around. on my old set up that was corner weighted I would go up let's say two threads at a time on each side. Its fast and easy and good for trackside adjustments.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Oh sure, it's definitely not scientific. Tire size/height means a ton here too.

What this does tell me is the back is really low.
On an older set of coilovers I had about a 1/2 finger in the rear.

awdboosted

iTrader: (30)

I don't know how accurate I can be because my fenders have been rolled.

hamflex

iTrader: (18)

threads on the coilover is very accurate!

CharlieN

iTrader: (1)

Not knowing where your shock valving is set I would back down on the rear rebound.
If the corner weights were off you would feel a difference between left and right turnins.
Do not fret over the ride height, it will not make any difference.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I didn't see it listed in the OP's first post, so ... are you running the stock front/rear sway bars?

l8r)

hamflex

iTrader: (18)

ride height is such a huge impact on an evo!


I know mike and I know he is new to this, im sure with a few more track days he will figure everything out.

Hey Mike how were your brakes all day? did you begin to lose them at all, any fade as the day went on or at the end of every session?

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Try reducing rear rebound.

And post your ride heights. Center of wheel to edge of fender.

- Andrew

awdboosted

iTrader: (30)

I got the brakes brown finally.. I had no problem with fade. The brakes stayed strong the whole race.. I may have not been as aggressive as someone with more experience under there belt.

I will post ride height This weekend.. Thanks for the advice..