AST
Ohlins
AST

 

Muellerized JIC's seem like a good choice for under $2500. If you are patient enough, like someone has mentioned, I would get Ohlins DFV.

There is someone selling custom valved Ohlins in the markerplace for $2450 shipped, that is a hell of a deal!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...s-springs.html

will

 

.

There have been a lot of great suggestions here and
I've decided on the following two coilover systems for
my track Evo:

KW Club Sport
or
Ohlins DFV

I would greatly appreciate opinions on both... pro & con.

Thank you.

.

 

hmmm...I would question the valving on the KW's for R-comps.

STANCE GR+ Pro SS-D. 12k / 14k

 

Since you're running sticky tires with width more than 255, you should consider +10kg for the front and matching rates for the rear depending on the rsb you're running.

Also, I wouldn't recommend Ohlins DFVs unless you plan to service or revalve them a yearly basis. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Considering the Stance GR+Pro SSD 3-way.9K-10K..10K-11K range with a 255 min R comp tire. Pete

 

Why would you question KW Clubsport valving for use with r-comps? Any specific reasons?

What would make the Stance coilovers better?

- Andrew

 

Robi's KW lineup and the specific RobiSpec KW Clubsports are designed for the 9/10 spring weight. They can also handle a stiffer spring without compromising the design of the coilover...

 

Dbl Post

 

How much of a stiffer spring can they handle ??

.

 

You could run up to 12k, but that puts you almost out of rebound adjustment. Plus when you're at the limits of the valving the adjustments are not quite as precise.

Keeping the springs at 9/10 and going with bigger swaybars would be a better idea with our Clubsports. We do make a KW double adjustable race shock (and a really nice 3-way kw, among other things), which is better suited for use with slicks and higher spring rates.

 

Now that we have several suspension gurus on this thread I'll go ahead with my problem. I thought I knew the spring rates I should use, but now I'm a little confused. I bought my coilovers from a friend of mine who had them setup for autox. They are the Vishnu revalved Ohlins (PCV if I'm correct). They originally came with 450lb/in springs in the front and 550lb/in springs in the rear. When I bought them, the previous owner had swapped the 550lb/in springs to the front and gone with 700lb/in springs for the rear.

For track my setup is:
* Whiteline 26mm front sway bar
* Toyo R888 235/40/17
* Rebound set between 3-5 where 1 is the stiffest and 14 is the softest

I can't say if the dampers are shot and need to be revalved. But either way I was going to get them revalved for a higher rate in the front because I feel like I have too much roll in the front.

Here's a great video in my opinion that shows the bodyroll. Around 1:25 into this video you'll see me show up. Around the 2:00 mark you'll see the car leaning into a right-hander. Does that seem fine or is that too much roll?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfym4...layer_embedded

One thing that might be a problem is that my ride height is set too low. My front lower control arm is slightly angled downwards away from the wheel which from what I've read doesn't do well with the geometry.

So to summarize my questions:
1). Does the car seem to roll too much? It certainly feels that way from inside
2). Does going stiffer in the front make sense? 550lb/in seems to be the limit most people recommend
3). Is it possible the dampers are FUBAR and definitely need a revalve?
4). Is the car being too low causing the problem?


- Char

 

So did I scare off everyone or are people tired of this subject?

 

Bumping the thread w/my new spec

Fortune 510 C/o's valved for 10K 12K Swift springs

24mm rear sway (will detune to softer setting)
OEM FSB w/ adjustable end links
Updating all suspension bushes