Balrok

iTrader: (15)

I guess it's following the same principle of the drag design, extra oil in the opposite side of where the G's will take it. By drilling holes instead of taking out that section the wall is technically acting like a baffle, allowing adequate flow without sloshing, then when the car settles the oil drips back into the section, rinse and repeat. I'm about the run the AMS pan for the first time, but i'll go drysump past doing that.

toyracer

It seems as if you're thinking about the oil in a static situation. It's important to remember that while the car is cornering the pump continues to try to evacuate the oil from the sump while g-force tries to move the oil away from the pick-up. Less oil would make the situation far worse.

Baffles can serve many purposes, dependent on the design. Some baffles are merely obstacles that get in the way of the oil freely flowing, just to slow down the process of g-force moving it away from the pick-up, while others operate like trap doors storing extra oil in a chamber until the door swings open releasing the extra capacity when it is most needed. The AMS oil pan has a trap door baffle. The problem with a trap door baffle is that it is slower to fill the chamber than it is to empty it (because the door swings shut blocking the oil flow, oil then has to go over the door through a small passage), so that the recovery time between oil starvation events is increased.

Balrok, you are correct in regard to the holes and their effect on oil flow in and out of the new chamber, except that oil doesn't drip back in; oil flows just as freely in as it does out.

As I noted before, this absolutely works. Proven on TA-1 in competition. 1.8 g's with pressure data logged by our STACK system.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

obviously bumping an older thread but I'm noticing your experiences were much different than a lot of others who were seeing single digits in oil pressures, but you were on stock oil pan and no hla and were still seeing 40 - were you closer to stock at the time? Thanks for the data on the Kiggly HLA helping. Also, what oil weight were you using?

I'm looking into this for a near stock (300hp) evo with coilovers and RE71Rs, which are probably as grippy as r-comps from a decade ago.

The only thing I've got right now is the Kiggly HLA - wondering if this will be "enough" to sustain me through those long right handers - doing HPDEs, not actual "races"

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

you will see pressure drops.

I'll say it here like I did in the other thread.

ACCUSUMP.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

yeah, the car wasn't as developed 2 years ago as it is now. also im going by what the oil pressure gauge say, which might could be off a little.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

you don't think that'd be overkill for a car that sees 1-3 HPDEs a year and is pretty close to stock? I'm not saying I'm against it, just seems like much. I realize I'll still see drops with the Kiggly, not sure what warrants a "big enough" drop that I'd need to fix.

Thanks for the input. My car's close to stock running stock boost levels, I am also looking into a thread on BITOG regarding our cars at high RPMs and how the oil behaves there as well

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The fact that you're asking if it's necessary means you are concerned about it. So, you should run one because your concern is probably the expense of a rebuilt motor and install if you pop it because you didn't spend $800 on an accusump to prevent it.


Personally, I'm ok with losing a motor. I want to build a 2.2 and could use an excuse lol

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

lol! point taken.

Nimpoc

iTrader: (17)

Anything interesting there? Link?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/2206204/1

dave_evolvix

iTrader: (1)

Bumping this up, been thinking about oiling upgrades/track insurance for my all stock internal motor.

Based on what I've read, here are the most effective wet sump oil pressure upgrades... ranked. Please correct me:

1. Accusump
2. Racefab Baffled Pan
3. Kiggly HLA
4. AMS Baffled Pan
5. Bushur Baffled Pan
6. Crank Scraper Upgrades

Additions:
Oil pickup modifications?
Other "modified" pans?
Does 15w40 oil get a mention? I think this is more for the oil temp and viscosity concerns.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

the only thing I'd note is that you can do multiple things. everyone should be doing the kiggly and scraper imo. cheap and easy

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I've had my oil pan modded (6.5L+ sump, trap doors), stock oil pickup, scraper, and HLA. Here is a shot of my car just before exiting Riverside @ BWRP. I was on 255 NT-01s, for reference. I'm at 5500ish RPM and 90-95mph, from what I can tell. Oil pressure is dang near 100psi. Well worth the cost and effort to do all that, IMO. I'm on the stock turbo and shotblock, so I run 5w40 oil:

dave_evolvix

iTrader: (1)

I've seen some data-logging evidence for the Accusump (via RS Motors) and Baffled Oil Pan (via Balrok).

Not sure I've seen something solid for the Kiggly and the Scrapers, other than its very popular. Anybody have any datalogs that show increased oil pressure at high lateral gs (especially right hand) with Kiggly and or scrapers?

As for the scrapers... Dropping the pan and resealing it isn't easy IMO, if I take off the pan, I'd be inclined to modify it at the same time.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

There"s also the Tuff Customs pan, 8.5L capacity. They claim it works better than the RaceFab pan: https://ssmperformanceparts.com.au/p...-sump-evo-4-9/