Full-Race R14 -> 2010 Modified Tuner Shootout
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From: NJ / AZ FULL-RACE
Full-Race R14 -> 2010 Modified Tuner Shootout
Many people wonder what the founder of Full-Race drives - I admit that im a total S-chassis addict (I own multiple S14s at the moment). Initially i was a hardcore turbo honda guy, but Ive always dreamed of swapping an AWD RB26 into a 240SX (the hassles of owning a GTR in the USA is a huge turnoff to me). My first S14 started the love affair with nissans 8 years ago, and once i became close friends with Forrest **** it was on - if you dont know of Forrest look him up on youtube. That old S14 is now my fathers and it has an SR20DET and Full-Race twinscroll 30R turbokit. Since those beginnings, I graduated from Engineering School, Started Full-Race and somehow got a killer deal on an RB26 front clip. Once it arrived i put it up in the air and began to measure the R-chassis suspension and crossmember dimensions. What i discovered was unreal - they are almost IDENTICAL dimensions S-Chassis to R-Chassis. The rear driveline was also a complete bolt-on affair :bowdown to the nissan engineers for hooking us up like this!! Then i became friends with a few AZ locals with GTRs and ordered every Option/Hyperrev i could find to continue my research. About 1.5 years later the prototype R14 was built and we debuted the car at SEMA and on the Cover of the SEMA issue of Modified Magazine to announce the development of the R14 conversion kit:
After this debut i started working on the car alot and taking it apart-putting it together-taking it apart/changing something-putting it together --- repeat more times than i can count. We tweaked the initial design, improved the suspension geometry and soon had a ton of customers interested in the R14 conversions. We built a few but the fact of the matter is that this swap takes HOURS upon HOURS of time. And it simply was getting in the way of our turbokit mfg business. So i stopped building R14s and went back to the drawing board, designing a conversion kit that any expereinced mechanic or basic fabricator with a 220V MIG could install - virtually no cutting, only welding.
Since then I have spent all my free time and resources refining what i have always considered the Ultimate "swap" -- AWD RB26, LHD into the sexiest chassis of all time to result in my baby - the R14. this DIY R14 kit will become available later this year and we are using this race as proof-of-concept and ensuring viability in a competition environment. The list of invites to this year's race is no joke and we have to be on top of our game. My R14 had a street car build with a goal of 600whp on pump gas - this was fun for the last year or so, but now that I have decided to use the car for time attack, and will still keep it my street car there is a LOT of work to do.
This post documents my journey that started mid-january as i prep my car to be competitive in the 2010 tuner shootout. We got 2nd place the last 2 years in heavily modified street STIs and we dont want to give that up... however a street subaru wont get us 2nd this year - there will be GST's GC impreza (got 1st the last 2 years), a dedicated track porsche 911 twin turbo awd as well as the sierra sierra cosworth evo and tarzan is driving crawford's STI so we have to be on top of our game to do well. We have 4 weeks before the event. The chassis and engine are VERY solid and have plenty of time on them with no problems. Our driver is Mike Speck - an ace behind the wheel and knows this track extraordinarily well. We'll be getting a set of moton double adjustables
Specs are:
mildly built RB26, stock bottom end (Stock rods/pistons/rings), modified oiling system.
Full-Race Twinscroll turbokit
Borg Warner Airwerks S300 prototype turbocharger
FULLY worked cyl head, portwork, machining and valvejob by Headgames Motorworks
Cyl Head Assy by Burt @ IMP performance - easily one of the most knowledgable and meticulous builders ive ever met. (I consider myself lucky to know this guy)
cooling is getting improved right now (pics below)
full roll cage, proper bracing in the right spots
r34 gtr brembos front and rear, raybestos motorsport pads, brake ducting
R32GTR front suspension, caster changed to 7degrees through custom upper control arm mounts. Stock swaybar, Stock Upper Arms, Stock lower arms, Stock tierods, Quaife Front LSD, urethane swaybar bushings
R33GTR rear suspension, full adjustable links, R32GTR stock swaybar, nismo LSD
Tires are Hoosier A6 (Autocross compound for time attack) and BFG R1 (enduro + lapping) 275/35 on a 18x10.5
Torque Split is running fixed with ATTESSA eliminated (split adjustable depending on preference and tires/track condition)
I have been working hard to document my build and have tried to take pics all throughout. Some of the pics are on my friend's SLR, others are on my cellphone <sorry for the lack of consistency>. this is a peak inside my life, i hope you guys like it, ive never worked so hard on a car before
Some pics from last year - if you live in AZ you might have seen me in I-10 traffic at 5:30AM or 7:00PM
^^^parked at the 2009 modified tuner shootout, rained like crazy
^^^my buddy's R34
here are some pics of my old engine bay w/ huge 900+whp FMIC and BorgWarner twinscroll S300SX turbo (90 degree compressor housing)
^^the inside of my intake manifold (still retaining ITBs)
^^old dyno chart from 91 octane and 19psi
the day i decided to rip my car down and enter the race:
^^trying out this random GT wing i got at a JDM yard
^^r32 gtr transmission and front drivshaft
^^TRUST increased capacity oil sump - must be able to TIG weld aluminum to install!
__________________________________________________ __________
^^strapped up on locash racing's 2WD dynapack - FWD turned completely off
^^^ Evans Tuning - EFI Tuning Specialists Jeff Evans is a bad-a** tuner, super conservative, accurate and knowledgeable with all the EMS's out there. great resource. He flew out to AZ, right off the plane straight to the dyno and tuned 4 cars in 1 day. unreal
^^the 88-75. just too much power, and not quite fast enough spool
^^20psi, E85 - 751whp but too laggy
________________________________________________
Rear diffuser
to make a functional rear diffuser, it requires that there be an area with no obtrustions to block air from exiting under the chassis or from behind the tires. I started by cutting the quarter panels level with the frame rail, and then i cut out the spare tire well
^^cutting quarter panels level with the frame rail
^^removing spare tire well
^^20 ga steel plate fabricated, and mig tack'd in place.
^^welds cleaned up, spray painted grey
flat bottom rear is finished! now time to bolt up the diffuser when it gets back from powdercoat on monday :naughty
this bumper will be trimmed generously!
another shot of the rear, but this time the new spindles with proper toe rod geometry is installed
Front Aero
^^front splitter mounted on the car, you can also see the radiator ducting. coolers will be remounted and ducted next
^^strong enough for 330lbs @ 0mph, should handle 300+lbs downforce at 170mph!
After this debut i started working on the car alot and taking it apart-putting it together-taking it apart/changing something-putting it together --- repeat more times than i can count. We tweaked the initial design, improved the suspension geometry and soon had a ton of customers interested in the R14 conversions. We built a few but the fact of the matter is that this swap takes HOURS upon HOURS of time. And it simply was getting in the way of our turbokit mfg business. So i stopped building R14s and went back to the drawing board, designing a conversion kit that any expereinced mechanic or basic fabricator with a 220V MIG could install - virtually no cutting, only welding.
Since then I have spent all my free time and resources refining what i have always considered the Ultimate "swap" -- AWD RB26, LHD into the sexiest chassis of all time to result in my baby - the R14. this DIY R14 kit will become available later this year and we are using this race as proof-of-concept and ensuring viability in a competition environment. The list of invites to this year's race is no joke and we have to be on top of our game. My R14 had a street car build with a goal of 600whp on pump gas - this was fun for the last year or so, but now that I have decided to use the car for time attack, and will still keep it my street car there is a LOT of work to do.
This post documents my journey that started mid-january as i prep my car to be competitive in the 2010 tuner shootout. We got 2nd place the last 2 years in heavily modified street STIs and we dont want to give that up... however a street subaru wont get us 2nd this year - there will be GST's GC impreza (got 1st the last 2 years), a dedicated track porsche 911 twin turbo awd as well as the sierra sierra cosworth evo and tarzan is driving crawford's STI so we have to be on top of our game to do well. We have 4 weeks before the event. The chassis and engine are VERY solid and have plenty of time on them with no problems. Our driver is Mike Speck - an ace behind the wheel and knows this track extraordinarily well. We'll be getting a set of moton double adjustables
Specs are:
mildly built RB26, stock bottom end (Stock rods/pistons/rings), modified oiling system.
Full-Race Twinscroll turbokit
Borg Warner Airwerks S300 prototype turbocharger
FULLY worked cyl head, portwork, machining and valvejob by Headgames Motorworks
Cyl Head Assy by Burt @ IMP performance - easily one of the most knowledgable and meticulous builders ive ever met. (I consider myself lucky to know this guy)
cooling is getting improved right now (pics below)
full roll cage, proper bracing in the right spots
r34 gtr brembos front and rear, raybestos motorsport pads, brake ducting
R32GTR front suspension, caster changed to 7degrees through custom upper control arm mounts. Stock swaybar, Stock Upper Arms, Stock lower arms, Stock tierods, Quaife Front LSD, urethane swaybar bushings
R33GTR rear suspension, full adjustable links, R32GTR stock swaybar, nismo LSD
Tires are Hoosier A6 (Autocross compound for time attack) and BFG R1 (enduro + lapping) 275/35 on a 18x10.5
Torque Split is running fixed with ATTESSA eliminated (split adjustable depending on preference and tires/track condition)
I have been working hard to document my build and have tried to take pics all throughout. Some of the pics are on my friend's SLR, others are on my cellphone <sorry for the lack of consistency>. this is a peak inside my life, i hope you guys like it, ive never worked so hard on a car before
Some pics from last year - if you live in AZ you might have seen me in I-10 traffic at 5:30AM or 7:00PM
^^^parked at the 2009 modified tuner shootout, rained like crazy
^^^my buddy's R34
here are some pics of my old engine bay w/ huge 900+whp FMIC and BorgWarner twinscroll S300SX turbo (90 degree compressor housing)
^^the inside of my intake manifold (still retaining ITBs)
^^old dyno chart from 91 octane and 19psi
the day i decided to rip my car down and enter the race:
^^trying out this random GT wing i got at a JDM yard
^^r32 gtr transmission and front drivshaft
^^TRUST increased capacity oil sump - must be able to TIG weld aluminum to install!
__________________________________________________ __________
^^strapped up on locash racing's 2WD dynapack - FWD turned completely off
^^^ Evans Tuning - EFI Tuning Specialists Jeff Evans is a bad-a** tuner, super conservative, accurate and knowledgeable with all the EMS's out there. great resource. He flew out to AZ, right off the plane straight to the dyno and tuned 4 cars in 1 day. unreal
^^the 88-75. just too much power, and not quite fast enough spool
^^20psi, E85 - 751whp but too laggy
________________________________________________
Rear diffuser
to make a functional rear diffuser, it requires that there be an area with no obtrustions to block air from exiting under the chassis or from behind the tires. I started by cutting the quarter panels level with the frame rail, and then i cut out the spare tire well
^^cutting quarter panels level with the frame rail
^^removing spare tire well
^^20 ga steel plate fabricated, and mig tack'd in place.
^^welds cleaned up, spray painted grey
flat bottom rear is finished! now time to bolt up the diffuser when it gets back from powdercoat on monday :naughty
this bumper will be trimmed generously!
another shot of the rear, but this time the new spindles with proper toe rod geometry is installed
Front Aero
^^front splitter mounted on the car, you can also see the radiator ducting. coolers will be remounted and ducted next
^^strong enough for 330lbs @ 0mph, should handle 300+lbs downforce at 170mph!
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Dec 13, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
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From: NJ / AZ FULL-RACE
many hardcore car guys consider the best suspension in the world to be MOTON. I researched my options - considered ohlins, bilstein, kw, penske but at the end of the day, none had what i was looking for except Moton. I HATE upgrading parts and only want to buy good suspension once, so i bit the bullet and what showed up was heavenly. The quality of these absolutely exceeded expectation, and im blown away (im a very picky engineer, this doesnt happen often) suspension of this caliber is seriously next level
^^ a total thing of beauty. Moton double adjustables (15 independant bump and rebound settings, blowoff valve system for high speed bump control, huge main piston, remote reservoir compression adjusters mounted on swivel banjo fittings (makes mounting them easy!), and 2.25" spring hardware.
^^this is the top-secret R14 front suspension ive never shown anyone before. consider yourselves lucky :rotflmao the Motons fit so perfect, its like the motons were just meant to be..
this is showing the drivers side remote reservoir compression adjuster
(pass side)
now to the rear --
installed (but waiting on the tender springs to arrive)
reservoir located, you can also see the fuel pump wiring
easy to see how the adjusters are mounted facing inwards, easy to access without removing the wheel
tire clearance at full droop
tire clearance at full bump
both reservoirs mounted, and the wing mount i am building now from 0.035 4130 cromoly
NEW prototype BorgWarner Twinscroll Turbo - dubbed S300'P'
^^^look at the super badass turbine wheel geometry and my favorite feature of all, the vband compressor hsg to CHRA. soooo slick. I am looking to spool 1000rpm quicker and make 700+whp at 30psi boost... this should do it.
the legendary extended tip compressor wheel design, this is only 61mm inducer / 83mm exducer turbo, just like a GT35R but it moves 72lb/min at full-tilt, HUGE airflow for this small of a turbo (35R is 62lb/min for example). take a look at the far tip you can see the little "peak" that is mountain shaped on the top of each blade? thats the extended tip
getting ready for the charge pipe modification
4" downpipe flange welded on
^^old vs new... you can see how much smaller the new turbo really is
^^got the manifold and downpipe 2000degree HPC coated, and will use DEI heat wrap on top of the coating to further reduce engine bay temps. Now just waiting on the *brand new* TiAL MVR 44mm wastegate -- hopefully will receive it soon!!
^^as she sits tonite, getting ready for a looong weekend!
now i have to corner weight the car, align it, and do a few tweaks from my friends from M-workz and motoIQ, then i can finish the aero, and turbo for one last update before the race. see you guys in 1 week!
^^ a total thing of beauty. Moton double adjustables (15 independant bump and rebound settings, blowoff valve system for high speed bump control, huge main piston, remote reservoir compression adjusters mounted on swivel banjo fittings (makes mounting them easy!), and 2.25" spring hardware.
^^this is the top-secret R14 front suspension ive never shown anyone before. consider yourselves lucky :rotflmao the Motons fit so perfect, its like the motons were just meant to be..
this is showing the drivers side remote reservoir compression adjuster
(pass side)
now to the rear --
installed (but waiting on the tender springs to arrive)
reservoir located, you can also see the fuel pump wiring
easy to see how the adjusters are mounted facing inwards, easy to access without removing the wheel
tire clearance at full droop
tire clearance at full bump
both reservoirs mounted, and the wing mount i am building now from 0.035 4130 cromoly
NEW prototype BorgWarner Twinscroll Turbo - dubbed S300'P'
^^^look at the super badass turbine wheel geometry and my favorite feature of all, the vband compressor hsg to CHRA. soooo slick. I am looking to spool 1000rpm quicker and make 700+whp at 30psi boost... this should do it.
the legendary extended tip compressor wheel design, this is only 61mm inducer / 83mm exducer turbo, just like a GT35R but it moves 72lb/min at full-tilt, HUGE airflow for this small of a turbo (35R is 62lb/min for example). take a look at the far tip you can see the little "peak" that is mountain shaped on the top of each blade? thats the extended tip
getting ready for the charge pipe modification
4" downpipe flange welded on
^^old vs new... you can see how much smaller the new turbo really is
^^got the manifold and downpipe 2000degree HPC coated, and will use DEI heat wrap on top of the coating to further reduce engine bay temps. Now just waiting on the *brand new* TiAL MVR 44mm wastegate -- hopefully will receive it soon!!
^^as she sits tonite, getting ready for a looong weekend!
now i have to corner weight the car, align it, and do a few tweaks from my friends from M-workz and motoIQ, then i can finish the aero, and turbo for one last update before the race. see you guys in 1 week!
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Dec 13, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
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#8
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From: NJ / AZ FULL-RACE
[quote name='Full-Race Geoff' post='5072584' date='4 Feb 2010, 04:31 PM'] -- pump gas at 19psi[/quote]
got that weird dip figured out tonite, and why it was so laggy -- there was a small tear in the wastegate diaphragm! this caused extra lag, and weird behavior when the wastegate was opening.
NOTE: LEARN FROM MY ERROR -- ALWAYS RUN THE WASTEGATES OFF COMPRESSOR HSG TO AVOID ANY VACUUM BEING SEEN BY THE WASTEGATE> IF YOU RUN WASTEGATE OFF OF INTAKE MANIFOLD USE A CHECK VALVE
got that weird dip figured out tonite, and why it was so laggy -- there was a small tear in the wastegate diaphragm! this caused extra lag, and weird behavior when the wastegate was opening.
NOTE: LEARN FROM MY ERROR -- ALWAYS RUN THE WASTEGATES OFF COMPRESSOR HSG TO AVOID ANY VACUUM BEING SEEN BY THE WASTEGATE> IF YOU RUN WASTEGATE OFF OF INTAKE MANIFOLD USE A CHECK VALVE
#9
Awesome, thanks for making this thread Geoff! This is the holy grain of Nissan in terms of complete one-off built-up, anythng goes IMO. My first car was an S14 that I converted to full 98 Silvia Spec. By the time I sold it to Martin at XAT Racing, only the unibody was original, so this is very close to my heart.
I always though it was painted Audi Aviator Gray, but the whole thing is spray painted? Even better.
One day I'll have to build another. I miss 'em. Racing classes and driving an S chassis in the snow are the only reason I sold it. Sometimes I regret it.
I always though it was painted Audi Aviator Gray, but the whole thing is spray painted? Even better.
One day I'll have to build another. I miss 'em. Racing classes and driving an S chassis in the snow are the only reason I sold it. Sometimes I regret it.
#12
Damn...this is a badass build...very nice job...Ill have to keep an eye on this thread...Jeff Evans tuned my little brothers integra & now that I am moving back to New Jersey he may be tuning my evo...well see...
#15
many hardcore car guys know that the best suspension in the world is MOTON. Seriously - nothing else comes close. I researched my options - considered ohlins, bilstein, kw, penske but at the end of the day, none had what i was looking for except Moton. I HATE upgrading parts and only want to buy good suspension once, so i bit the bullet and what showed up was heavenly. The quality of these absolutely exceeded expectation, and im blown away (im a very picky engineer, this doesnt happen often) suspension of this caliber is seriously next level
- How did you decide between e.g. 8" main spring vs. 6" main spring + 2" helper spring?
- Are you using a helper spring or a tender spring, and if you will be using a tender spring, what rates will you be using?
- And what rate main springs?