What do Real Race EVO's do for Brakes? (not TT or DE)
Apr 25, 2010, 05:25 AM
#18
I have to use a lots of LFB. So i do use brakes a lot.
This is a nature of rally. On tarmac im using the OEM calippers , but different pads and lines so as fluid./endless/
We have only 2 race on tarmac , that is why we do not have a slotted neither 2 piece rotors.
On other surfaces we using a smaller wheels, there for we needed a smaller break set up. I have a Wilwood AMS set up for gravel and so.
On my IX RS i had a Project Mu BBK.
I liked it, but the X breaks are just as big. Only difference is the rotors. Im sure the OEM caliper is not as good as the Project MU, but with the lightened up car and the all the other upgrades on the car i do not see the necessity for other caliper.
Now if you have money to blow , then sure full set up is always better, like the Brembo above or the Alcon and so.
Rob
This is a nature of rally. On tarmac im using the OEM calippers , but different pads and lines so as fluid./endless/
We have only 2 race on tarmac , that is why we do not have a slotted neither 2 piece rotors.
On other surfaces we using a smaller wheels, there for we needed a smaller break set up. I have a Wilwood AMS set up for gravel and so.
On my IX RS i had a Project Mu BBK.
I liked it, but the X breaks are just as big. Only difference is the rotors. Im sure the OEM caliper is not as good as the Project MU, but with the lightened up car and the all the other upgrades on the car i do not see the necessity for other caliper.
Now if you have money to blow , then sure full set up is always better, like the Brembo above or the Alcon and so.
Rob
Last edited by Robevo RS; Apr 25, 2010 at 05:29 AM.
Apr 25, 2010, 11:08 AM
#19
You don't need mono-block Brembos... but a good pair of Alcon, Performance Friction, Willwood or even Stop Tech with a good quality pad.
On my STi i have a nice set of AP racing brakes (4/4) with a Tilton floor set and Ferodo DS3000.
but on my new car, 08 evo x, it's using Stop Tech (6/4), haven't raced it yet so will see how it dose.
On my STi i have a nice set of AP racing brakes (4/4) with a Tilton floor set and Ferodo DS3000.
but on my new car, 08 evo x, it's using Stop Tech (6/4), haven't raced it yet so will see how it dose.
Apr 27, 2010, 07:44 PM
#20
Thanks Guys, great info!
Reason I started this thread is that I'm struggling with my stock setup and I'm only doing HPDE's! I don't even race! I am as high as you can get up there in HPDE level experience, but never thought I'd be maxing out the stock EVO brakes in HPDE's. Was just curious if it is just me and if race cars are using stock calipers, then I should be able to make them work too, especially if I'm NOT racing.
Issue I'm having is that my pedal gets soft after about 10-15 mins of lapping. Feels like the fluid is starting to boil. If I do 2 slow laps, the pedal returns to hard again. Usually, I just call it an early session. My calipers are black (past being brownbos). I don't have crazy power either, just exhaust and tune.
I'm using:
- Motul fluid
- DTC-60 pads
- Forge 2" brake ducts
All else is stock.
I just ordered a set of the Racing Brake 2-piece open slot rotors and I hope this will help with keeping the brakes cool enough.
Given the feedback here, I think I will go for the Ti-shimms as well:
http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=30
What thickness are you guys running? 0.5mm or 1mm? Do you use them in front only or in the back as well?
Reason I started this thread is that I'm struggling with my stock setup and I'm only doing HPDE's! I don't even race! I am as high as you can get up there in HPDE level experience, but never thought I'd be maxing out the stock EVO brakes in HPDE's. Was just curious if it is just me and if race cars are using stock calipers, then I should be able to make them work too, especially if I'm NOT racing.
Issue I'm having is that my pedal gets soft after about 10-15 mins of lapping. Feels like the fluid is starting to boil. If I do 2 slow laps, the pedal returns to hard again. Usually, I just call it an early session. My calipers are black (past being brownbos). I don't have crazy power either, just exhaust and tune.
I'm using:
- Motul fluid
- DTC-60 pads
- Forge 2" brake ducts
All else is stock.
I just ordered a set of the Racing Brake 2-piece open slot rotors and I hope this will help with keeping the brakes cool enough.
Given the feedback here, I think I will go for the Ti-shimms as well:
http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=30
What thickness are you guys running? 0.5mm or 1mm? Do you use them in front only or in the back as well?
1-You used old Motul (hopefully 5.1 or 600) and it did what it does best, absorbed moisture
2-You have air in your lines
3-You are riding your brakes (braking should be done in <4s increments)
Go get some shims, consider SS lines and flush your system with fresh fluid from a new bottle. Also consider new rotors - the RB 2 piece open slots are awesome.
May 1, 2010, 04:53 PM
#21
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I run 4-pot StopTech front calipers with 2 piece vented rotors and Brembo 4-pot calipers with 2 piece, cross-drilled rotors in the rear. Setup seems very balanced and its more cost effective then the 6-piston setups
I use Motul RBF600 and I notice alot of moisture intrusion. I have to replace it all the time and I'm only doing HPDE for now. I think it could just be the fluid to be honest
I use Motul RBF600 and I notice alot of moisture intrusion. I have to replace it all the time and I'm only doing HPDE for now. I think it could just be the fluid to be honest
Last edited by MitsoKid; May 1, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
May 2, 2010, 05:31 AM
#22
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Here are the potential causes based on what's provided...
1-You used old Motul (hopefully 5.1 or 600) and it did what it does best, absorbed moisture
2-You have air in your lines
3-You are riding your brakes (braking should be done in <4s increments)
Go get some shims, consider SS lines and flush your system with fresh fluid from a new bottle. Also consider new rotors - the RB 2 piece open slots are awesome.
1-You used old Motul (hopefully 5.1 or 600) and it did what it does best, absorbed moisture
2-You have air in your lines
3-You are riding your brakes (braking should be done in <4s increments)
Go get some shims, consider SS lines and flush your system with fresh fluid from a new bottle. Also consider new rotors - the RB 2 piece open slots are awesome.
RE #1: Using RBF600 - it is possible that it has moisture in it as the bottles have been sitting in the garage for over a year (unopened of course - I bought a case once as I got a good deal). I wonder if that is the source of my problem especially after multiple comments on the water absorption.
RE #2: Doubt it. I bleed before each event. If air was the issue the pedal would be soft from the start.
Re #3: Considered that it is my driving, but I really doubt it. Talked to many folks about my technique (racers and other instructors), etc...
Re Ti Shimms: planning on placing order this month for those
Re SS Lines: already ordered but they will have nothing to do with cooling - they may help pedal feel though I hope.
RE New Fluid: I always flush & bleed with new fluid from bottle before event, but see #1.
Re Open Slot RB 2-piece: already ordered and pending delivery....
May 3, 2010, 11:07 AM
#23
I'm just curious as to what the real race cars here are doing for brakes on the EVO's. By Real race cars I mean gutted EVO's with full roll cages that run bumper to bumper for 25 minute races or more.
Main question I have:
Are you still using the stock calipers or is everyone using Big Brake Kits?
If using stock calipers, are you using 2-piece or 1-piece rotors?
Any other details or pics would of course be awesome!
Not interested in DE, Time Trials, drag racing or show car setups. The abuse done in wheel to wheel racing is different than that in DE's and TT's.
Main question I have:
Are you still using the stock calipers or is everyone using Big Brake Kits?
If using stock calipers, are you using 2-piece or 1-piece rotors?
Any other details or pics would of course be awesome!
Not interested in DE, Time Trials, drag racing or show car setups. The abuse done in wheel to wheel racing is different than that in DE's and TT's.
I had the same exact issue running a very similar setup. I had DTC60's, Motul and 2" forge ducts - along with SS lines and Ti shims. Same thing. Pedal would get soft 1/2 way through a 20-25min session just like you're saying. I would bleed between every event. Still, during the course of a lapping day, the pedal would get soft every session. During my 'out' lap I'd jab the brakes a few times just to build the pedal pressure back up and to make sure everything was kosher. I thought that was just how things worked and I learned to live with it.
How'd I eventually solve it; by accident! I switched fluids. I switched to AMSOIL DOT4 at first because of a sponsorship and after the 1st weekend I loved it. I don't get a soft pedal anymore; I don't have to bleed after each day or even each weekend. I highly recommend. Here's a link to my review: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...ck-review.html
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