Kern Racing - 2011 Edition
#16
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For kevlar under body etc use these guys.
http://www.magnummotorsport.co.uk/competition.html
Ive been dealing and buying off them for years. Good products, but they dont return emails (must be new technology for them) so just call them. They've shipped stuff to me in the US before without issue, and sent stuff to me down here in OZ.
JD
http://www.magnummotorsport.co.uk/competition.html
Ive been dealing and buying off them for years. Good products, but they dont return emails (must be new technology for them) so just call them. They've shipped stuff to me in the US before without issue, and sent stuff to me down here in OZ.
JD
#17
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Pulled a few parts off the car this afternoon. Since I've still got the scales I thought I'd put it to use.
30 lbs - 3/16" Aluminum skidplate
22 lbs - Ohlins TTX front rally shock
45 lbs - 15x7 Compomotive TH3 & 215-65-15 BFG Rally tire
44 lbs - 15x7 Compomotive TH3 & 205-65-15 Yokohama A036 Tarmac Intermediate
45 lbs - OEM 17x8 & 24-64-17 Michelin Tarmac tire
46 lbs - Enkei NT03 & 275-40-17 Kumho W700
Thinking I could likely build a good kevlar/aluminum skidplate for a bit less weight than than the aluminum one. Not something I'd trust for offroad use mind you, but with rallycross being in closed arenas and/or race tracks, big pointy sharp rocks aren't something I should have to worry about.
Dave
30 lbs - 3/16" Aluminum skidplate
22 lbs - Ohlins TTX front rally shock
45 lbs - 15x7 Compomotive TH3 & 215-65-15 BFG Rally tire
44 lbs - 15x7 Compomotive TH3 & 205-65-15 Yokohama A036 Tarmac Intermediate
45 lbs - OEM 17x8 & 24-64-17 Michelin Tarmac tire
46 lbs - Enkei NT03 & 275-40-17 Kumho W700
Thinking I could likely build a good kevlar/aluminum skidplate for a bit less weight than than the aluminum one. Not something I'd trust for offroad use mind you, but with rallycross being in closed arenas and/or race tracks, big pointy sharp rocks aren't something I should have to worry about.
Dave
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Just to think about this point too
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#18
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![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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The one thing that I do have is some great friends who do composite work. They built two winning RedBull race cars, the Ferris Bueller Ferrari and the SpeedRacer car, and they just love cool projects. Josh helped me with the wing re-construction/sturdy'ifying it for last year and it came thru with flying colors.
I've got a bunch of kevlar left over from when I coated the bottom of the new race car this winter, so I think I'll just be out the money for resin and bagging supplies. I was thinking that for rallycross something just 4-5 layers of kevlar with aluminum bracing built in should be sturdy enough to withstand rallycross. If I stuff/flip/whatever the car, a skid plate isn't going to make much difference.
Dave
#19
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All great points!
I honestly thought the skidplate was going to weigh in closer to 45 lbs, but its withstood 3 years of hillclimb abuse and my BFH. ![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
The one thing that I do have is some great friends who do composite work. They built two winning RedBull race cars, the Ferris Bueller Ferrari and the SpeedRacer car, and they just love cool projects. Josh helped me with the wing re-construction/sturdy'ifying it for last year and it came thru with flying colors.
I've got a bunch of kevlar left over from when I coated the bottom of the new race car this winter, so I think I'll just be out the money for resin and bagging supplies. I was thinking that for rallycross something just 4-5 layers of kevlar with aluminum bracing built in should be sturdy enough to withstand rallycross. If I stuff/flip/whatever the car, a skid plate isn't going to make much difference.
Dave
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
The one thing that I do have is some great friends who do composite work. They built two winning RedBull race cars, the Ferris Bueller Ferrari and the SpeedRacer car, and they just love cool projects. Josh helped me with the wing re-construction/sturdy'ifying it for last year and it came thru with flying colors.
I've got a bunch of kevlar left over from when I coated the bottom of the new race car this winter, so I think I'll just be out the money for resin and bagging supplies. I was thinking that for rallycross something just 4-5 layers of kevlar with aluminum bracing built in should be sturdy enough to withstand rallycross. If I stuff/flip/whatever the car, a skid plate isn't going to make much difference.
Dave
I actually did hold in my hand Didier Auriol Celica WRC spare kevlar skid plate in my hands. But that was actually heavier then mine
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.wrc.com/drivers-and-teams...uriol/?whoid=5
i felt like the kid who gets his ice cream finally LOL
![](http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q54/Robevo_2006/moto_0066.jpg)
![](http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q54/Robevo_2006/moto_0064.jpg)
#22
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Nice shot. It's always intrigueing to hold a true WRC part.
I do know the WRC cars use kevlar under floor and sump protection for tarmac but as you can see they run (usually) titanium strips as the main slam-guard against the pavement. Which is what gives us those spectacular sparks when they ditch hook it and run the belly against the pavement!
I do know the WRC cars use kevlar under floor and sump protection for tarmac but as you can see they run (usually) titanium strips as the main slam-guard against the pavement. Which is what gives us those spectacular sparks when they ditch hook it and run the belly against the pavement!
#23
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Kern Racing is proud to announce we'll be teaming up with Manley Performance for the 2011 season!
With an engine rebuild needed to start off the 2011 season, now is the perfect time to incorporate some of Manley's great products. Once again we'll be doing a high compression 2.3L stroker engine, but this time around we will be using a Turbo Tuff Series Billet Crankshaft and Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods. This stuff is so pretty its almost a shame to hide it inside an engine!
Thanks for following along.
Dave
With an engine rebuild needed to start off the 2011 season, now is the perfect time to incorporate some of Manley's great products. Once again we'll be doing a high compression 2.3L stroker engine, but this time around we will be using a Turbo Tuff Series Billet Crankshaft and Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods. This stuff is so pretty its almost a shame to hide it inside an engine!
Thanks for following along.
Dave
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Just re-read the rules and bulletins for the rallycross series. Looks like they added a rule that allows you to remove the passenger seat & harnesses after media rides are done. So, there's another 35-38 lbs of weight savings! I like the free stuff. LOL
Dave
Dave
#26
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Knocked out a bunch of stuff on the car today:
-removed all 4 windows & door panels
-purchased tinted lexan
-traced windows only to discover my jig-saw has gone missing
-removed dash
-removed heater box & fan
-removed radiator
-test fit IC in higher location (sitting on top of the radiator support)
Will be back at it tomorrow and will try to snap some pics. Also likely to head down to my buddies shop in hopes of test fitting some new control arms to the other rally project. Busy busy!
Dave
-removed all 4 windows & door panels
-purchased tinted lexan
-traced windows only to discover my jig-saw has gone missing
-removed dash
-removed heater box & fan
-removed radiator
-test fit IC in higher location (sitting on top of the radiator support)
Will be back at it tomorrow and will try to snap some pics. Also likely to head down to my buddies shop in hopes of test fitting some new control arms to the other rally project. Busy busy!
Dave
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Anybody know of any coolant flow diagrams for the 4g63 out there? 30 minutes of searching and I'm coming up blank.
Trying to figure out how I want to re-do piping for this rear mounted radiator and knowing which directions the water is flowing and when would be helpful. Thinking about shortening the pipe that comes around from the back of the block so it goes directly to the radiator (instead of wrapping around towards the front and meeting up with the water housing on the side of the block, then doing a 180 and heading back to the firewall).
Edit: Since I'm sure someone will ask - I'm not as concerned about not having a t-stat because with the radiator in the back they won't get as much normal airflow when cruising down the road. I'll have thermostat controlled fans, so when the car is cold the coolant will be flowing, but there won't be much air going over the radiator core. Once it heats up, the fans will kick in to try and keep everything cool. Also, with the extra length of the system, I'm guessing that there'll be enough of a restriction that coolant won't be able to flow too quickly...though I've heard convincing arguments that other than cavitation issues, coolant moving quickly isn't a bad thing.
Dave
Trying to figure out how I want to re-do piping for this rear mounted radiator and knowing which directions the water is flowing and when would be helpful. Thinking about shortening the pipe that comes around from the back of the block so it goes directly to the radiator (instead of wrapping around towards the front and meeting up with the water housing on the side of the block, then doing a 180 and heading back to the firewall).
Edit: Since I'm sure someone will ask - I'm not as concerned about not having a t-stat because with the radiator in the back they won't get as much normal airflow when cruising down the road. I'll have thermostat controlled fans, so when the car is cold the coolant will be flowing, but there won't be much air going over the radiator core. Once it heats up, the fans will kick in to try and keep everything cool. Also, with the extra length of the system, I'm guessing that there'll be enough of a restriction that coolant won't be able to flow too quickly...though I've heard convincing arguments that other than cavitation issues, coolant moving quickly isn't a bad thing.
Dave
Last edited by DaveK; Feb 27, 2011 at 12:51 AM.
#29
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Of course if you want extra power...the Evo's the way to go.
![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
Dave
#30
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One of the reasons subarus are so popular is that Subaru of America offers contingency money for racing them. So, you finish well in a newer subaru and you go home with a check. Other nice thing about the subies is the parts interchangeablilty, so you can start with a 1993 chassis and drop an STi motor in it when you're ready for some extra power.
Of course if you want extra power...the Evo's the way to go.![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
Dave
Of course if you want extra power...the Evo's the way to go.
![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
Dave
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