You guys should consider the TRE STU legal refresh for the rear diff, since the rear diff is assembled wrong from the factory it's definitely worth it for a little more rotation

 

We've run the Berry/Lieber BSP car for 5 years on the same set of bearings. I'd be surprised if you had issues.

 

Out of curiosity, anyone know where this stuff is discussed in the shop manual? Like if I had a shop that knew how to rebuild diffs, what could I give them to make sure the rebuild was legal?

 

I've heard/read similar comments from others.... anyone have any thoughts on what else it might be? we've gone through it ourselves and are stumped....

light "cricket" noise, it goes away with the slightest brake pressure. When it first started to make noise turning the wheel slightly also made it dissipate.. but now, turning no longer changes the noise (for better or worse).

the noise began after a long day of autocrossing, the day after I put new slotted rotors on the car

I’ve rotated on a different set of wheels/tires to no effect

I’ve pulled the calipers, pads and rotors, checked for cracks, damage, etc.. looks fine. The pads (Ferodo DS2500s) are tapering, but I’m assuming that’s “normal” behavior for them Brembos…

that's about it, i'm at a loss

 

thanks Sean, I was looking at slide hammers online, with a fitting (hub adapter) that attaches to the lug bolts at the hub... that what you recommend? Harborfrieght has one but reviewers state that it's useless, maybe I'll just rent one.

also, I saw here you were looking into dome-light camera mounts. I have just the thing, I'll post it up in a bit. (you can see it hanging down in a couple of those photos above)

Doug

 

Dome light camera mount mod:



this is from a collection of swivel attachments I got from chasecam, but you can also get them from amazon, the company that makes them, and a whole lot more interesting stuff is panavise. this initial iteration had the camera too high up in the cabin, all I was getting was the rear-view mirror, so I bought a panavise aluminum telescoping arm from amazon, it's lighter, and longer so it can sit lower in the car.

• carefully remove the lens from your dome light
• detach the plug from the light and unscrew the dome light from the ceiling. It uses sheet-metal screws.. take it to your work bench and..
• drill a hole through the dome light lens in the location of the left sheet metal screw mounting location.
• put a small spacer in behind the lens and then run a new/longer toothy screw through the base of the swivel attachment, through the lens, through the spacer, through the dome light mounting hole and into the ceiling attachment/metal. use a bunch of permanent lock-tight adn get it tight (hence the spacer), you don’t want it to come loose and start swiveling on you down the road

 

We used a slide hammer that attached to the hub with the lugnuts -- just like you describe. Depending on how stuck your hub is be willing to sacrifice those nuts...
My car is pretty low mileage - so it only took a couple of hammer hits.
I have no idea where we got the hammer. It was in my dad's collection of tools - but knowing him, it came from Harbor Freight.
Yep, that's the one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piec...-kit-5223.html
It worked for us.

- 'chono'

 

thanks for that, yeah, our car has relatively low miles but I'm pretty sure the previous owner occasionally parked it in the ocean... nothing ever rusts around here, this car has a bit....

 

Clever. The off-the-shelf stuff from GoPro is too short and doesn't clear the mirror.

-"chono"

 

We just returned from our first out-of-town event in the EVO, the NorPac Divisionals in Helena Montana.. couldn't of been a better trip, awesome site, awesome people, STU/L class wins and top PAX overall!

check out this site, Helena is really fun


I need to rethink my camera mount, it's not stable enough... I think I'll try and run an extension down and attach it to the center armrest/console somehow, see if that helps. I also need to screen the microphone from wind noise :/

 

Your setup looks pretty fast from the Videos

I would also second that TRE STU Rear diff with some Redline NS fluid. You'll never race a Subaru again!

 

Chris, I sent you an Adam an email w/ a quick question today, let me know what you'all think. thanks

here's our newest team-member heading towards victory at the Packwood Pro (and NT). Congrats Geoff!

 

Did you run into any issues with the 17x9.5 +38et in back and the 17x9.5 +18et in front? Rubbing, etc


BTW Helena looks like an awesome site. I'm jealous! Were you on Star Specs in those vids?

 

nope, no issues
and fwiw, we're wearing out the fronts 3 times faster than the rears

Helena is special for sure. and yes, we were running Dunlops
...I want to go back *as he reaches for their schedule*

 

I'm surprised it's not more like 5-6x fronts for every set of rears.

Lots of weight on those front tires.

What do you think of the Dunlops vs. Hankooks back-to-back? Or have you gotten a chance to try them on the same course/site/day yet?

On my STR ride the Hankooks are definitely faster, but the 245 Hankook is so small that I'm not sure on the Evo.