Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so back in the day, I was up to speed on most of this, but I assume much of the best practices and leading products have changed. What I'm looking for is two main things:

1. I feel like my braking is now a weak spot relative to my power, suspension, and tires (V710s). I have some slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, stock calipers, and stainless steel braided lines. I am interested in either a known big brake kit (BBK) or piecing together components that make up a great combo. My only caveats are:
   • This is no longer a daily driver, but I need to be able to drive to/from the track
   • Must fit with my STREET and DRAG wheel/tire setups:
     • Street: VIII MR rims (17X8) with 255/40 Direzzas
     • Drag: Rota Torques (17X8) with 245/45 Nitto 555R
2. I have no aero (stock wing), and I can feel the car floating up above 120. I'm open to front-end aero components, but I'm under the impression I'll need to match any splitter/canard components with a proper wing. One comment:
   • I really need a wing setup that allows me to remove the wing for drag racing. Right now, I can't switch the stock swing off and on, so it limits me with drag racing.

I fit in NASA TTS still (barely), but I decided to play in TTU in my local NASA region. I'd especially be interested in hearing from others in these classes.

apex electric

Stay with a recognized company for brake upgrades. Essex Motorsports is the first name on the list for a good affordable brake upgrade.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

Welcome back Warrtalon!

This is what I run in my track evo, but it also sees street use to and from the track. I usually arrive and drive with my stock BBS wheels and Z1s. This set-up uses stock calipers, obviously.

DBA Two Piece (Front)
Racing Brake ET800 Pads (Front)
Girodisc Titanium Shims (Front)

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Apex, thanks for that info. I found the Essex vendor announcement for the AP set, and it looks like a great fit for what I'd like. It looks like that kit will fit with my stock 17s while being vastly superior, but I need to make sure it's ok for street driving. It's only a front kit, but I imagine my existing setup in the rear will suffice.

Thanks, Golgo. I appreciate the list of what you use, but can you tell me how that setup performs and what sort of series you run with that setup?

Pure EvoIX

iTrader: (7)

warrtalon sighting!!

If you don't want to do Essex AP Racing brake kit and want to stick with Stock calipers, go with this:

Girodisc 2pc rotors OR Performance Friction 2pc rotors
Hawk DTC70 or Performance Friction 01 Race Pads. Still can be used for daily driver. How do i know, cuz i used both and they are fine in terms of cold braking <100F and noise. Too lazy to swap pads so they remained on for a month until next track day. So its fine.

Raybestos ST43 are really good too, but super noisy. Do not recommend for use while daily driving. Fine for driving to and from the track. They bite hard and stop very well. They make ton of noise on track, enough that its hard to think with helmet on, but they do their job which is slowing down the car quickly. Harder to modulate compared to Hawk DTC70 and PF01 pads, which are easier to modulate brake pressure.

+1 on Girodisc Ti shims. Use RBF660 for added insurance from brake fluid boiling.

I highly recommned some sort of brake ducting like the AMS brake ducting kit, unless you can fab one up yourself that is similiar and cheaper. I have the AMS braked ducting kit and it works. Longer pad and rotor life.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, Pure.

• I would be happy to use the Hawk DTC70, and my "street" driving is minimal anyway, so I would leave them on. I mainly need to get to/from the track.
• What's the deal with shims? I don't recall hearing about those before.
• I think I've been using Motul Blue or something like that for fluid.
• I used to have the Forge Brake Duct Kit when they sponsored me, and it was pretty cool, but I eventually noticed that my front tires had worn huge holes in the ducting, so I took them out. I may have not installed them properly, though. On the Essex site for the AP kit, they actually recommend the Forge and AMS brake duct kits, so those are good suggestions by you.

I suppose it would be quick and easy to flush the system, put in new RBF660, add shims, and use the new DTC70 pads. That would probably beat what I have now, but I'm quite interested in the Essex kit after reading through the details thoroughly.

Are there any comparble kits?

goforwand

iTrader: (132)

Nathan (boomn29) has gone back and forth with different wing set-up's and an APR splitter but went back to stock aero and set a track record at Mid-O...go figure

Jarrod (Evolutionary) has a nicely developed aero set up, as do a number of other racers and TT'ers here, so lot's of posts to sift through. David's (apex electric) aero set up is very advanced (as is his brake ducting set up)

My NASA ST-2 set up is Raysbestos ST-47 fronts; ST-45's rear with dba 5000 rotors in front and 4000 in the rear; Forge knock off venting to the front rotors (King Kyle's old product)...with Pagid RS-29 Yellow's the set up had good durability and performance. Once switching to the Raysbestos pads, braking performance increased significantly but rotor wear and caliper destruction ensued...

I run the matched Voltex wing and front undertray/splitter and find it to be very well balanced. Wing angle adjustment is very easy and it's nice to be able to set the wing based on the track and see the results in segment times. Not "easy" to take on and off, but can be done without significant pain.

Just wondering why you would want to run in TTU if you can make TTS...TTU is psychotic re: some of the well developed high-hp cars.

I just ordered the AP kit from Jeff at Essex and will be testing it next weekend so will post a review..nothing as good in the price range. Next step up would be the Performance Friction Z-rated monoblock calipers but they cost around a grand more, and PF recommends running both front and rear calipers ($$$$$$$$)

Best of luck!

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Great info, goforwand. Two reasons for TTU vs. TTS:
1) At max power right now, I'm about 8.5:1 with my current weight and all adjustments. I have to detune to stay at 8.7:1, and I only plan to reduce weight as time goes on while gaining a little more power. I know TTU is ridiculous when racing a real purpose-built TTU car, but...

2) TTS in my region is weak, and my times are far beyond anyone else while TTU has more cars and is more competitive. I don't have the time or leeway to run nationally, so having fun locally is my current goal. Also, even if I started to compete more seriously, I would have difficulty staying at 8.7:1 as weight reduces and power increases, but I know I could lower the boost and adjust the tune and would be better off doing that in any sort of real competition.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

yes they are great! give them a call or send Jeff a PM. You will not regret it.

Tahoe55

Defintely spend a couple hours reviewing the posts in this thread from SMIKEVO
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-thread.html

For the money, you can compete with big brake kits by selecting a few components to go with the stock calipers which are pretty good. Your HP+ pads probably won't last long and will get too hot for serious track duty.
Replace the pads, lines, and fluid first. You need to check your rotors often for cracking and have a set on hand for that moment when they fail inspection.

As for your wing, I ran my RS with a borrowed trunk & stock wing and it was ok especially with stock front end. Any more aero after that you will need to match your front and rear aero mods.

Another thing to consider for floating at high speed is alignment settings. Double check your toe as it is easy to get the settings off and it can affect high speed stability. It can be hard to get exactly what you want at some alignment shops.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, Tahoe. I am reading Smike's thread now. I figured the HP+ were at their limit. I only had them, because the Evo was still a daily driver when I last raced 3 years ago. I'm ready to go up to a more uncompromising pad. I have SS lines, but I don't know if there is much of an issue with SS lines after several years of non-use. Fluid needs to be re-done for sure.

I don't have spare rotors, and mine are 4 years old, so I should get some news one AND some spare ones.

I had considered getting an RS trunk or a CF trunk so that I could just swap trunks for drag/track.

My float may have been due to toe-out, which was 1/16" on both fronts.

Ev0_J0e

iTrader: (1)

I second this

fsmtnbiker

What kind of times did you run out at HPR this weekend? I didn't get to go this weekend, a little disappointed.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

1:58.0 on my first lap of the 2nd session. It was clean all the way up until close to the finish line, but I'm not sure how much time I lost. Every lap after that was contested, and I only could stay for 2 sessions. 1st session was my first time ever at HPR, so I had no idea what I was doing (probably still didn't in session 2).

I think I have a good bit of time left out there with a clean lap and mental improvement. Beyond that, I know my brakes were not up to snuff, so that will be the 2nd area of time improvement.

KevinD

iTrader: (56)

as what most people have already said HP+ isn't a serious pad if your doing NASA events. we run the DTC70s in all the NASA cars we run with, and it is a night and day difference then the hp+ which i used to run when i just ran HPDE for fun.

a BBK isn't worth it until you have maxed out the braking with quality race pads, have brake ducting, good head dissipation from the rotors, and good fluid. and by that time i assume you'll have done a great deal of weight reduction, lowering the energy the brakes need to burn off (i.e. even less of a need for a BBK). my TTU car has oem rotors, PF 2 piece rotors, DTC70 pads... but haven't run it in a while because it went under the knife for a lot more changes it weighed 2650lbs before this current round of mods (added cage, aluminum roof, 2 piece drive shaft, cut out more material inside, dry carbon hood etc.. i expect it to be 2600lbs when i'm done)