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Advice setting up SM Evo

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Old Oct 18, 2011, 04:30 PM
  #31  
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pretty nice list! looks like you've done your homework.. not sure what your goals are except to beat the people in your region.. to be nationally competitive like people said, car will barely be livable.. gutted, etc.

good luck
Old Oct 18, 2011, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
pretty nice list! looks like you've done your homework.. not sure what your goals are except to beat the people in your region.. to be nationally competitive like people said, car will barely be livable.. gutted, etc.

good luck
Well you can't gut an SM car too far...
Old Oct 18, 2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ratt_finkel
3-4 negative in the front
1-2 negative in the rear

Depends on what you like.

Went from 3.5 frt and 2.0 in the rear to 3.35 frt /1.5 rear, it helped with rotation.
I still want the car to be streetable and trackable in the rain. Not sure about toe, so I went with zero in the rear - a change from the factory pinch.

In the end, it will be more stimulating trying to make the EVO work, as opposed to the stagnant state of the ITR in DS.
Old Oct 19, 2011, 07:11 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BBQman
Went from 3.5 frt and 2.0 in the rear to 3.35 frt /1.5 rear, it helped with rotation.
I still want the car to be streetable and trackable in the rain. Not sure about toe, so I went with zero in the rear - a change from the factory pinch.

In the end, it will be more stimulating trying to make the EVO work, as opposed to the stagnant state of the ITR in DS.
What rear bar, spring and air pressure are you running? What type of surface?
Old Oct 19, 2011, 07:07 PM
  #35  
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KW Clubsports, so I am guessing close to 500-600 rates?

Whiteline sway bars, 27mm frt and rear. I think I need to play with these a bit more. The only twaek I did was go from full soft frt rear to mid setting rear.
People tell me the AWD cars need stiff frt bar settings to provoke rotation...this goes against all I know about Hondas.

For pressures, I have started with all sorts , but I try to get them near 36 hot. I only have data from TAs, no autocross yet. on RS3s..

I suppose I will need a starting point on my A6s next year.
Old Jan 6, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RJones
Well you can't gut an SM car too far...
sigh

thought i'd post here in case anyone form this thread was interested,

please check https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rness-bar.html

for a quick release harness bar, for anyone who still DD's their SM evo


FYI, one of the rally guys actually said the rebuilt TRE rear diff is actually more durable than some of the stuff from cusco and carbonetics, if that puts your mind at ease any for wear/tear for the rear diff
Old Jan 6, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
FYI, one of the rally guys actually said the rebuilt TRE rear diff is actually more durable than some of the stuff from cusco and carbonetics, if that puts your mind at ease any for wear/tear for the rear diff
I'm running the ShepTrans 12-plate mod, but yes, I've had more reliability with that than the two high dollar units. Could also come down to the fact that my car's trying to put down power with one wheel in the air, and that shock loading when I come down from jumps is causing the failures.

Dave
Old Jan 6, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveK
I'm running the ShepTrans 12-plate mod, but yes, I've had more reliability with that than the two high dollar units. Could also come down to the fact that my car's trying to put down power with one wheel in the air, and that shock loading when I come down from jumps is causing the failures.

Dave
ah that's right, my mistkae
Old Jan 6, 2012, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveK
I'm running the ShepTrans 12-plate mod, but yes, I've had more reliability with that than the two high dollar units. Could also come down to the fact that my car's trying to put down power with one wheel in the air, and that shock loading when I come down from jumps is causing the failures.

Dave
what sort of failures are you actually having?
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