Ideal track engine
#1
Ideal track engine
I've run the stock block in the 350WTQ-425WTQ range for 45K miles and a fair amount are from autox-lapping days-Time attack events.
Im getting to the point where an upgraded engine seems to be in my near future. Im trying to gather info on the most reliable setups out there. I didnt post this in the engine drivetrain section because i do not want responses from drag racers\People who suggest AMS FTW!!!!
My intentions are to build a Highly track capable setup thats foucus is handling 450~ wheel torque all the time and 500WTQ on occasion. With Zero reliability issues. The stock motor has treated me very well for many miles and i expect no less of a future setup.
Im looking to do this on my current turbo which should be very capable (EF3). And E85 fuel. It must be able to limp around on 93 octane as i drive to and from the track , so this might limit the compression ratio.
Staying on the stock ECU.
I also TRY to keep my RPMS under 7000 on track for MANY reasons many involving making the trans last as long as possible as well as less issues with oil starvation.
I have mostly all the supporting mods, its very likely i will have MAP do the engine work as i have a great relationship with them, but i want to do this right the first time and am gathering as much info as possible.
If i were to build today based upon what i know.
I would choose a
2.3 with either 10.0:1 or 10.5:1 JE pistons and either MAP or manley turbo tuff rods.
BEARINGS???? I havent a clue.
ARPs of course
I dont know enough about cranks to know if theres an advantage worthwhile to aftermarket.
And then the debate about going with a 2.4....... Ive heard horror stories about lifted heads and road racing.
I will likely be using a lightly built head with GSC cams
Feel free to comment on any of the above.
Other things i want to know ,
Oil pumps any way to mod these to increase reliability?
Balance shafts?
Im sure i will have more questions and i greatly appreciate the input from this forum and its members.
Feel free to post up your setups how long they have lasted, at what power level, and things you wouldve done different and why?
Im getting to the point where an upgraded engine seems to be in my near future. Im trying to gather info on the most reliable setups out there. I didnt post this in the engine drivetrain section because i do not want responses from drag racers\People who suggest AMS FTW!!!!
My intentions are to build a Highly track capable setup thats foucus is handling 450~ wheel torque all the time and 500WTQ on occasion. With Zero reliability issues. The stock motor has treated me very well for many miles and i expect no less of a future setup.
Im looking to do this on my current turbo which should be very capable (EF3). And E85 fuel. It must be able to limp around on 93 octane as i drive to and from the track , so this might limit the compression ratio.
Staying on the stock ECU.
I also TRY to keep my RPMS under 7000 on track for MANY reasons many involving making the trans last as long as possible as well as less issues with oil starvation.
I have mostly all the supporting mods, its very likely i will have MAP do the engine work as i have a great relationship with them, but i want to do this right the first time and am gathering as much info as possible.
If i were to build today based upon what i know.
I would choose a
2.3 with either 10.0:1 or 10.5:1 JE pistons and either MAP or manley turbo tuff rods.
BEARINGS???? I havent a clue.
ARPs of course
I dont know enough about cranks to know if theres an advantage worthwhile to aftermarket.
And then the debate about going with a 2.4....... Ive heard horror stories about lifted heads and road racing.
I will likely be using a lightly built head with GSC cams
Feel free to comment on any of the above.
Other things i want to know ,
Oil pumps any way to mod these to increase reliability?
Balance shafts?
Im sure i will have more questions and i greatly appreciate the input from this forum and its members.
Feel free to post up your setups how long they have lasted, at what power level, and things you wouldve done different and why?
Last edited by getsideways; Oct 30, 2011 at 05:37 PM.
#3
My motor has been rock solid, and it was done in my garage as my first engine build. My parts are pretty basic. Standard Wiseco 2.3L pistons, Eagle rods and 100mm crank, ACL bearings, turned down balance shaft.
It's been running 500whp, 455 ft-lb type power levels for three seasons of tracking. I don't drive it on the street anymore, just 1 to 2 track days a month from March to September each year.
2.3L for sure especially since you seem to be cool with lower RPM limits. I run mine to the stock limit I think, or maybe 7800RPM.
If I did it again I would use some better rods, Manley seem popular, Carrillo I've heard nothing but good things as well.
It's been running 500whp, 455 ft-lb type power levels for three seasons of tracking. I don't drive it on the street anymore, just 1 to 2 track days a month from March to September each year.
2.3L for sure especially since you seem to be cool with lower RPM limits. I run mine to the stock limit I think, or maybe 7800RPM.
If I did it again I would use some better rods, Manley seem popular, Carrillo I've heard nothing but good things as well.
#4
^ I have heard many drag guys cry about eagle products, Im going to shy away from their rods, They seem to be a little hit or miss.
But what made you choose the eagle crank over a stock 2.4 100mm?
You stayed with low compression any reason why ? Used to run pump gas maybe?
But what made you choose the eagle crank over a stock 2.4 100mm?
You stayed with low compression any reason why ? Used to run pump gas maybe?
#6
I was on a budget when I put everything together, and this was still kinda early in the whole "everyone is building motors" timeline. I could not find a good Mitsu 2.4L 100mm crank, so that's why I got the Eagle. I didn't plan on running e85 when I put the motor together, and high compression pistons were a little harder to get as well.
If I did it now I would likely roll the higher compression setup, with either Wiseco HD or JE pistons. Manley rods probably.
If I did it now I would likely roll the higher compression setup, with either Wiseco HD or JE pistons. Manley rods probably.
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#9
I'm still racing on my stock 2003 motor. Just a set of Cosworth 272 cams and Evo 9 turbo. I still think it is plenty fast enough with 350whp. I spent my coin on everything else besides the motor. My first recommendation is to make your motor survive all temperature and oil pressure conditions. Motor data is very important. Evo's lose oil pressure in high g right hand turns. Charlie North( http://ffmsd.com/) built me a inexpensive oil pan and pick up modification that solved the right hand turn oil pressure problem. A big thick core PWR aluminum rally radiator will fix most water temp issues. Call Charlie to custom make you a proper accessory pulley as well. He has the specs and belt size to fix any over heating problems. Running your water pump at 7000rpm? Any good motor will provide performance but a race engine must endure prolonged abuse.
Last edited by apex electric; Oct 31, 2011 at 07:05 PM.
#10
^Thanks for the thoughts,
I have always run pump gas in the past and have not run into overheating issues on my evo9 ever. E85 will help a little more this year .
I usually 'only' run 25 PSI on that midsized turbo at the track and everything on the exhaustside is heat coated AND wrapped to combat underhood temps, this winter im adding a long heat shield to the front side where it nears the radiator.
My way of helping to combat those high G right handers is to run in street tire classes everywhere
But the thought is present about adding the Kiggly HLA and having my local fabricator baffle the oil pan and add a scrapper when it gets built.
All the racing series i compete in allow for built motors and in some cases my car is at a 100WHP disadvatage. Plus i feel im pushing my luck at my current power levels on the stock block.
I feel i could get one more season outta it but if it blows the cost to rebuild could double.
Wont those pulleys affect the DD of the car?
I have always run pump gas in the past and have not run into overheating issues on my evo9 ever. E85 will help a little more this year .
I usually 'only' run 25 PSI on that midsized turbo at the track and everything on the exhaustside is heat coated AND wrapped to combat underhood temps, this winter im adding a long heat shield to the front side where it nears the radiator.
My way of helping to combat those high G right handers is to run in street tire classes everywhere
But the thought is present about adding the Kiggly HLA and having my local fabricator baffle the oil pan and add a scrapper when it gets built.
All the racing series i compete in allow for built motors and in some cases my car is at a 100WHP disadvatage. Plus i feel im pushing my luck at my current power levels on the stock block.
I feel i could get one more season outta it but if it blows the cost to rebuild could double.
Wont those pulleys affect the DD of the car?
#11
2.2l or 2.3 i vote for .
I like cosworh stroker kits or jun.
I would leave the bearings stock, you need them to change after every 5 race or so. Also the necessary ARP bolts and stuff, stock gaskets for easy replace.
Remember basically you dont want to reinvent the engine. Never works in long track racing.
Rob
I like cosworh stroker kits or jun.
I would leave the bearings stock, you need them to change after every 5 race or so. Also the necessary ARP bolts and stuff, stock gaskets for easy replace.
Remember basically you dont want to reinvent the engine. Never works in long track racing.
Rob
Last edited by Robevo RS; Oct 31, 2011 at 07:53 PM.
#14
2.2l or 2.3 i vote for .
I like cosworh stroker kits or jun.
I would leave the bearings stock, you need them to change after every 5 race or so. Also the necessary ARP bolts and stuff, stock gaskets for easy replace.
Remember basically you dont want to reinvent the engine. Never works in long track racing.
Rob
I like cosworh stroker kits or jun.
I would leave the bearings stock, you need them to change after every 5 race or so. Also the necessary ARP bolts and stuff, stock gaskets for easy replace.
Remember basically you dont want to reinvent the engine. Never works in long track racing.
Rob
#15
While replacing bearings isn't unheard of in, as Kevin said, full on race teams, i've also never heard of anyone doing or recommending that severe of a replacement sched before on any Mitsu.