4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

Were you the silver Evo in the student group? I was instructing in the 2dr Subie (STi drivetrain transplant). That looks like a toe issue. Go to your Evo brethren at the track next time and ask for help, there were quite of us there and most of us could have helped you.

Me:

blkmkIII

iTrader: (34)

I had the same issue with star specs? what size wheel/tire? I would never buy star specs for a heavy car again. My s2000 is a different story though. They are great in the rain but if they overheat, they are effed. R-S3's do not have any issues with falling apart in the heat. Lack of camber and overdriving will do it also.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

yup that was me, and that explains why that little suby had so much speed!

i was trying to keep my head on straight, as the day was a little hectic so yeah i was very bad about meeting people. i spoke a few times with the owner of the GG MR on hoosiers. i checked tires after session one and they were fine, i then looked at the end of the day and discovered this, and a lot of people were gone already. but yeah i gotta work on meeting people (your car is awesome, i walked by a bunch of times but didnt see anyone near it)

so i believe this would be a sign of too much toe in?

mine is a much smoother wear away ad was the inside edge not outer but...

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

Is the tire you are refering to setup with toe out?

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

that i do not know. the previous owner had a custom alignment done (i believe smike helped him with the car). the car was hit in the drivers fender last year, and the car got an alignment. i requested the camber to match, which they supposedly did, but i forgot to ask for toe. the car drives dead straight down the highway if you take your hands off the wheel, and street tire wear has showed no odd characteristics

what may be the result is that while camber is equal on both fronts, the pass side might have zero toe, and drivers side has been set to factory toe in.

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

This is by no means exact, but set your steering wheel straight, get some string and get the delta between the forward most part of the tire, and the back most part of the tire (parallel to the ground, from the height of the center of the hub). Respond back with the measurements.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

ill see what i can come up with. thanks.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

I too think it's more of an alignment issue - and probably toe. Camber caused it to wear faster, but toe can destroy a tire in 1 session; as little as 1/4"

And those that think StarSpecs can't handle a heavy car are FULL of crap. I've had StarSpecs now for 4-5 years that I run here and there. I can them all morning at Road Atlanta last month and they're fine. They show wear obviously but not destroyed. And that's on a 350whp car running 1:38's on those 5-yr old 245 StarSpecs.

If you're hearing audible feedback from a tire, it's prematurely wearing it... back it off! And make sure to rotate them religiously. I'd rotate midday at the very least.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

1503234% this.

That picture above with the outer ripped off is alignment and drive issue not tire.

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

Too many people see Jeremy Clarkson power slide a car around every turn until the tires blow out and try to do the same. Driving smoother is faster when you are on the 95%-100% of your tire's traction and manage the abuse you put on them. Forcing the car around corners with them howling puts you on the abusive side of the tire traction curve and is actually slower. It's also inviting disaster when the car breaks loose and you your tires are overheated and greasy. I know starspecs operate at a lower heat range than say the R-S3's but how you drive them is a huge factor on how they hold up.

Too much toe out is what is killing the inside edges of your tires. Also try and get a way to measure your inner/middle/outer tire temps so that you can get them relatively even when at your typical pace on a road course. Too much negative camber does wear the inner edges at a higher ate but it's the toe out that really accelerates the wear.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

thanks for the input, all things i began to learn first hand on saturday. i learned over the course of the day how to use the tire feedback to tell me where the sweet spot for turn in and track out was, its an art! the star specs were great (i have nothing to compare them too anyway but), it was neat to see how truly sticky and soft they were after a session, and after the 120 miles home, cleaned up and looked normal again.

that is all exactly what i am trying to put into practice. i will have a tire pyrometer by next event. i wouldnt think shy of -2 degrees camber would do damage when i see road course guys running more than that. but i guess ill have to see when i start with fresh tires and dont have toe in fighting me.

ive been watching the in car from my last session and learning what i could have done better.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

short of a 4 point you can move your seat all the way back, give the shoulder belt a sharp tug and hold it when it locks then move the seat forward until it gives you a good squeeze. It'll take a few tries but it works well and will hold you for the whole session.


Post a copy of the before and after alignment printout when get it and demand that you get one.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

well i attempted to ghetto string the front tires, but i dont have a good way to hold the string away from the tire enough (im very poorly mechanic equipped when not at my parents house).

ill probably just wait until i can get an alignment done so i can get some real measurements.

JDavenport

iTrader: (33)

These gentlemen speak the truth. I rocked Star-Specs for many DE events and they were great.

I NEVER had that kind of inside wear. Outside edge, yes. Evo's do that. Killing the inside that hard, there is something funky about your alignment most likely. Toe will do it in a hurry.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

what causes the outside shoulder wear? rolling the shoulder over?