JDavenport

iTrader: (33)

Weight of the car (these things are not light) + tendancy to understeer + less than track prep camber + heavy front weight bias = some roll onto the outside shoulder and heavy wear there.

You can reduce it, with mods and prudent driving. But as you go faster it keeps coming back. So you mod some more, you get faster it comes back. Before you know it you have built a race car that is no fun to drive anywhere else anymore.

I corded 3 of my 4 Hoosier A6's this weekend, all on the outside edge.

But I have never seen the kind of inside edge wear you have on my car.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

well i had a DUH moment while doing some suspension theorizing at work tonight.

the car came with whiteline sways on it when i bought it. two things...
1. i believe there is more than one choice of bar size
2. they are adjustable, and i dunno where they are set.

this could have contributed to over loading the outside front i think.

sounds like i need to get into the swaybar debate now. thinking i should look at doing softest setting on the front bar and possibly middle or stiffest on the rear.

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

Strange, on my Evo X's that I've tracked it's always slightly more inner edge wear and that is with zero front toe and -2.5* camber give or take up front. Granted I'm driving in Street tires like Hankook R-S3's but when I check the tire temps middle and outer seem to be really close with the inner edge being higher which tells me I could get away with less negative camber.

Maybe I manage the tires on the safe side of the traction curve but I guess it could be the Evo X's suspension that has plenty of oversteer with a decent coilover setup and still daily driveable.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

figured id give an update...

put on my new wheels/tires and got an alignment. shop gave me a huge stack of printouts and managed to leave out a final overall one, and i left them at my parents house but...it did not look like there was a toe issue.

due to a seized right front camber bolt final numbers are:
-1.7 front
-1.5 rear
0 toe on all four.

hopefully i dont roast my new rs3's next time out, since its starting to look like i just over drove.

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

In the future, you will definitely want more front camber, but that is a good baseline for an alignment. The pyrometer is good advice, but with our car we don't really run above 37-38psi hot for tire pressures.

Dan

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

what do you guys use as starting cold pressures on the rs3's?

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

On RS-3's I usually start at 34 psi cold and then drop down 1-4 psi depending on tire temps and roll over along with checking pressures after coming off the track. Colder tracks would mean higher pressures in general. At least with the -2.8 front / -2.4 rear camber setups with 5.5* to 7.0* caster and zero toe front / 2mm total toe in rear, the temps and pressures really never get that high. I'm using the Perrin PSRS offset bushing to get the extra caster to 5.5*, and the Vorshlag top mounts allow adjustment as high as 7.0* which seems to really help.

Granted you can over drive the tires by driving too aggressively which actually hurts your times but it's worked for me well to be on the good side of tire squeal in the corners.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

i had been thinking 34 front 36 rear, im wondering if that might be too high in the back. although they probably wont heat up as much in the rear anyway.

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

I usually get less rollover in the rear when using same pressures all around even though there is about -.5* less camber back there.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

would less camber warrant a tad higher pressure?