View Poll Results: What would you do?
Faawk it... keep the big turbo and use that money for more fun trackdays
7
70.00%
Get either the bbk full, hta green, or hks gtII 7460R
3
30.00%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll
Dilemma... What would you do?
#1
Dilemma... What would you do?
Hello everyone,
About 1.5 years ago, I purchased an evo 8 with a built block and a Full race gt35 with all supporting mods. The car back then made 450whp conservatively on 91oct + 100 meth. The meth kit was removed within a couple of months.
Since the day I test drove the car, I notice the turbo lag and it wasn't much of an issue. I simply thought I could just simply change my driving style. The turbo reaches full spool at around 4650rpm and makes about 370whp on my super conservative 91oct tune(MD); redline is at around 8.3k. I barely drive the car on the street and when I do, I can tell the powerband is pretty bad. However, at the local track, It is a blast and I have no problems keeping up with corvettes, ferrari's, porsche's, etc. I've attended a total of 13 trackdays in the last 7 months and I've had scored lap times similar or better to those with e85 bbk's, fp greens, etc..
Now the dilemma comes whenever I talk to fellow evo owners around the area. Most of them mention that I should try getting a bbk, hks 7460r, or a green turbo due to the amazing spool characteristics; they do make sure to emphasize it. As an engineer when comparing graphs, the early spool is a must and the area under the curve is simply hard to ignore.
In the event I was to get any of the mentioned stock frame turbos, I'd only run 91oct due to availability at my local tracks. 104 or 100 oct is available but not worth at ~7-8 bucks a gallon. Also, I can't find myself able to bring e85 to the track since my second set of wheels, tools, cooler, ramps, and jack take most of the space in my car.
My power goals will always be around 400awhp on a mustang dyno. Car and my skills can't handle more power. With a stock frame turbo and 91oct, I'd be at about 360whp on a MD. Therefore for the money spent, no power gains.
In a way, I'd love to do it but is it really worth in my case spending around $3k just for 1500rpm extra in my powerband? What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for any input!
About 1.5 years ago, I purchased an evo 8 with a built block and a Full race gt35 with all supporting mods. The car back then made 450whp conservatively on 91oct + 100 meth. The meth kit was removed within a couple of months.
Since the day I test drove the car, I notice the turbo lag and it wasn't much of an issue. I simply thought I could just simply change my driving style. The turbo reaches full spool at around 4650rpm and makes about 370whp on my super conservative 91oct tune(MD); redline is at around 8.3k. I barely drive the car on the street and when I do, I can tell the powerband is pretty bad. However, at the local track, It is a blast and I have no problems keeping up with corvettes, ferrari's, porsche's, etc. I've attended a total of 13 trackdays in the last 7 months and I've had scored lap times similar or better to those with e85 bbk's, fp greens, etc..
Now the dilemma comes whenever I talk to fellow evo owners around the area. Most of them mention that I should try getting a bbk, hks 7460r, or a green turbo due to the amazing spool characteristics; they do make sure to emphasize it. As an engineer when comparing graphs, the early spool is a must and the area under the curve is simply hard to ignore.
In the event I was to get any of the mentioned stock frame turbos, I'd only run 91oct due to availability at my local tracks. 104 or 100 oct is available but not worth at ~7-8 bucks a gallon. Also, I can't find myself able to bring e85 to the track since my second set of wheels, tools, cooler, ramps, and jack take most of the space in my car.
My power goals will always be around 400awhp on a mustang dyno. Car and my skills can't handle more power. With a stock frame turbo and 91oct, I'd be at about 360whp on a MD. Therefore for the money spent, no power gains.
In a way, I'd love to do it but is it really worth in my case spending around $3k just for 1500rpm extra in my powerband? What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for any input!
Last edited by ITOzann; Oct 22, 2012 at 10:48 PM.
#3
I try to drive the evo as much as I can on the streets but something I just end up using my daily yaris. I'm sort of scared of driving on the streets because I got 2 hit n runs within the last 6 months and I'm also scared someone will steal my voltex wing hahaha
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Agreed with the above post.
I run the old FP white and power comes on so quick. My car was tuned by AMS and made 340/385 on their dyno. It's an absolute riot to drive.
Now, my buddy has a 2.0L with a 30r and I hate driving with him, or driving that car. Power comes on too late for my liking.
I run the old FP white and power comes on so quick. My car was tuned by AMS and made 340/385 on their dyno. It's an absolute riot to drive.
Now, my buddy has a 2.0L with a 30r and I hate driving with him, or driving that car. Power comes on too late for my liking.
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
keep the full-race kit and get this. quicker spool, better transient response, and much better reliability than the stock frame turbo.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
#7
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Can you please explain a little more about what you want to do with the car? Sounds like you have gotten the track bug. And please don't compare your track times to different cars. The more you track, the more you will realize that lap times are most influenced by the driver, not the car. Just wait until you get passed my a Miata. haha.
If you want to stick with HPDE stuff, I would just keep the turbo you have now. There is no reason why you should ever be below 4650rpm on the track.
Now, if you want to move up to competitive racing (NASA, SCCA, etc), I would suggest swapping the turbo out. When you start to get into hp-to-weight classes and points classes, a bigger turbo kills you. You want quick spool and maximum hp for as long as possible.
If you want to stick with HPDE stuff, I would just keep the turbo you have now. There is no reason why you should ever be below 4650rpm on the track.
Now, if you want to move up to competitive racing (NASA, SCCA, etc), I would suggest swapping the turbo out. When you start to get into hp-to-weight classes and points classes, a bigger turbo kills you. You want quick spool and maximum hp for as long as possible.
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#8
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (91)
I agree with the statement above, If you plan on switching turbochargers. The HTA3076R or GTX3076R would be my pick for a faster spooling turbocharger and still keeping top end. The one thing I hate about stock frame turbochargers is having a graph that looks like a mountain. It goes up and comes back down towards redline. The GTX/FP will have faster spool and still hold good towards redline.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
Check out the graphs. Can't really argue with it.
Michael
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
Check out the graphs. Can't really argue with it.
Michael
#9
Can you please explain a little more about what you want to do with the car? Sounds like you have gotten the track bug. And please don't compare your track times to different cars. The more you track, the more you will realize that lap times are most influenced by the driver, not the car. Just wait until you get passed my a Miata. haha.
If you want to stick with HPDE stuff, I would just keep the turbo you have now. There is no reason why you should ever be below 4650rpm on the track.
Now, if you want to move up to competitive racing (NASA, SCCA, etc), I would suggest swapping the turbo out. When you start to get into hp-to-weight classes and points classes, a bigger turbo kills you. You want quick spool and maximum hp for as long as possible.
If you want to stick with HPDE stuff, I would just keep the turbo you have now. There is no reason why you should ever be below 4650rpm on the track.
Now, if you want to move up to competitive racing (NASA, SCCA, etc), I would suggest swapping the turbo out. When you start to get into hp-to-weight classes and points classes, a bigger turbo kills you. You want quick spool and maximum hp for as long as possible.
My goal is to stick with HPDE and aim for time attacks. I'm not really looking to attend NASA or SCCA events at all. I definitely understand the implications of running a big turbo within their rules.
I really appreciate the input!
#10
I agree with the statement above, If you plan on switching turbochargers. The HTA3076R or GTX3076R would be my pick for a faster spooling turbocharger and still keeping top end. The one thing I hate about stock frame turbochargers is having a graph that looks like a mountain. It goes up and comes back down towards redline. The GTX/FP will have faster spool and still hold good towards redline.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
Check out the graphs. Can't really argue with it.
Michael
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...GT3076HTA.html
Check out the graphs. Can't really argue with it.
Michael
#11
Evolved Member
I have a BBK-Full and love it, that being said, I don't know that it makes sense for what you want. The power level you want isn't going to be there for 91 octane on a small frame turbo, and the Full Race manifolds are really nice. If you do upgrade turbo I would keep the T3 setup and get a more appropriate turbo for that manifold. An HTA turbo for example.
Really though, if you aren't driving the car much on the street and you are pleased with it's performance on the track, I would just keep tracking it until you run in a class that you see the need for the change.
Really though, if you aren't driving the car much on the street and you are pleased with it's performance on the track, I would just keep tracking it until you run in a class that you see the need for the change.
#12
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Given my experience, id pick a car with less power and quicker spool over a car with more power that lags. Having seen some dyno graphs comparing the Norcal MDs to the RRE dyno, im estimating my car would make around 300whp on the Norcal MDs. Im more than happy with my OEM 9 turbo and the speeds my car can reach. It feels really fast to me. Beyond that, know that there are major consequences with power. So id even pick my setup over something that makes a ton more power even if it spools quickly.
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