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Buschur Racing Electric steering

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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:35 AM
  #31  
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I see that this kit doesn't use any type of 'fluid cooler' line. I assume its not really needed? What type of fluid is recommended for these things?
Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:38 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TommiM
I see that this kit doesn't use any type of 'fluid cooler' line. I assume its not really needed? What type of fluid is recommended for these things?
Not needed, they run much cooler.

Oem fluid will work fine.
Old Aug 17, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #33  
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Soooo this does not work with the oem water pump.

I found this out at the point of no return.

Here's some pics. It works and that's what matters.

You can see that I took the bare bracket off of the oem ps pump, shaved off the mounting holes on the side as they are overkill. Now I shaved the bracket down and bolted the oem tensioner to a blank hole that I tapped.

There is a hole already tapped in the bracket but it will interfere with the oil pump dimple on the lower timing cover




Old Aug 17, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #34  
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Also there is a small amount of shaving that will be needed on the oil pump dimple on the timing cover. I took the hot knife attachement on my Weller soldering iron and it took it off easily.



And the reason why it won't work with the oem water pump without reusing this bracket is that if you put the accesory belt around the alternator and crank pulley it will miss the water pump, and if you put the belt over the water pump it will spin backwards. So this was the only solution I found that was fairly easy to do and required little trimming.

Belt used was a master pro K060523 which is 52 7/8 long. It works well but I will have to verify that the tensioner lines up properly.
Old Aug 18, 2014 | 08:26 AM
  #35  
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I believe the water pump is a directional design. It may push water spinning backwards but it will not achieve the same flow and could cause problems. I would say that this is a temporary solution only.

I would have to look at the accessory belt diagram to determine what a good solution might be.

edit: the easiest solution might be to find someone to make the water pump pulley with a tread.

Last edited by nollij; Aug 18, 2014 at 09:11 AM.
Old Aug 18, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by nollij
I believe the water pump is a directional design. It may push water spinning backwards but it will not achieve the same flow and could cause problems. I would say that this is a temporary solution only.

I would have to look at the accessory belt diagram to determine what a good solution might be.

edit: the easiest solution might be to find someone to make the water pump pulley with a tread.
Yes the pump is directional, I don't think I made it clear. With the bracket I modified the belt still goes under the pump so it spins correctly.
Old Aug 21, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #37  
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Nice simple solution. Going to an electric water pump is possibly the best solution. Lots higher cost though, particularly if you want to get even more complicated and drive the pump with PWM based on engine temperature and load...

FWIW, if you don't like the idea of a $800 setup using a used pump... Toyota MR-S pumps can be bought new for under $600. The fittings needed (rack and pump) are common fittings... Nothing hard to track down. You can get all the electrical plugs so it's easy to wire up like it was OEM too.

Last edited by 03whitegsr; Aug 21, 2014 at 12:08 PM.
Old Aug 22, 2014 | 07:48 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
Nice simple solution. Going to an electric water pump is possibly the best solution. Lots higher cost though, particularly if you want to get even more complicated and drive the pump with PWM based on engine temperature and load...

FWIW, if you don't like the idea of a $800 setup using a used pump... Toyota MR-S pumps can be bought new for under $600. The fittings needed (rack and pump) are common fittings... Nothing hard to track down. You can get all the electrical plugs so it's easy to wire up like it was OEM too.
After seeing the kit I could have totally built it myself. At 800 bucks it's not to bad compared to the 1350 before.

So far so good, it's interesting driving it around. It has plenty of power to get me around
Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:47 AM
  #39  
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You guys are making it more complicated than it is for the alt/water pump belt. Just buy the strictly modified power steering delete kit..... Comes with belt and idler pulley for where the pump use to be
Old Aug 22, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Chris P.
JER153
This pump actually looks very interesting to me. Looks like you could mount it laying down and then use an external resevior. I'd personally like to do it on the right side under the rear seat where the gas tank once was. Nice and short plumbing, takes the weight from in front of the front axle and up high to back in the middle of the car and down low. I don't think any of these pumps are actually any lighter then the OEM pump, but I do think you can get some distribution advantage out of them.

Also, just run it with aluminum hardline on the return side and you have a "cooler" as part of the setup.

Maybe a different approach of interest to somebody here?
http://www.ultimatepowersteering.com...ering-section/

Same company, Electric Hydraulic Pump Approach...
http://www.ultimatepowersteering.com...ring-pump-kit/

Last edited by 03whitegsr; Aug 22, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by cody92talon
You guys are making it more complicated than it is for the alt/water pump belt. Just buy the strictly modified power steering delete kit..... Comes with belt and idler pulley for where the pump use to be
Well **** just saw this, I would just need the pulley but either way thanks for letting me know!
Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
This pump actually looks very interesting to me. Looks like you could mount it laying down and then use an external resevior. I'd personally like to do it on the right side under the rear seat where the gas tank once was. Nice and short plumbing, takes the weight from in front of the front axle and up high to back in the middle of the car and down low. I don't think any of these pumps are actually any lighter then the OEM pump, but I do think you can get some distribution advantage out of them.

Also, just run it with aluminum hardline on the return side and you have a "cooler" as part of the setup.

Maybe a different approach of interest to somebody here?
http://www.ultimatepowersteering.com...ering-section/

Same company, Electric Hydraulic Pump Approach...
http://www.ultimatepowersteering.com...ring-pump-kit/
I did the same thing, the oem return line runs from the driver side of the rack to the passenger side via alumnium. Buschurs kit wants it to be deleted and replaced with rubber. I however made it work without having to do so.
Old Sep 25, 2014 | 01:25 PM
  #43  
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I don't suppose you did a before and after dyno to see how much hp you freed up, did you?
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 11:18 PM
  #44  
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Nope no idea on the gains.

Also I had my first track day with this pump.

It was flawless and felt like oem. Couldn't be happier.
Old Oct 1, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by menupages112
Buschur Racing Manual Brake Conversion kit with aftermarket brake lines, stock intake manifold or any Magnus Intake Manifold, Buschur Racing Oil Catch Can Kit.
The hell, we've been infected with a bot , and a fancy one at that, even managed a avatar.

Last edited by Balrok; Oct 1, 2014 at 08:22 AM.


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