My Evo VIII track build
Mar 27, 2015, 11:18 AM
#17
The site has the full list of what's better and why, but there's also that thread we had with all the photos. But in short it's WAY better then oem as it's meant for racing use and not street temps. Lighter, stronger, cheaper, etc. Rotor size is only slightly bigger in order to still let people use 17's and such. But rotor size shouldn't be 'the' deciding factor for numerous reasons.
Mar 28, 2015, 02:19 PM
#18
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im using RacingBrakes two piece rotors (surface mount) now. had them on since the end of last season. they work great with DTC60 pad.
previously, i've used centric rotors from RockAuto for the past 4 years. they are cheap but would crack after 4-5 events. it looks like the RB is lasting longer than that at this point. the main reason i switched to 2 piece is to drop unsprung and rotational mass in the front. i'm also using RB stainless pistons and high temp dust boots.
previously, i've used centric rotors from RockAuto for the past 4 years. they are cheap but would crack after 4-5 events. it looks like the RB is lasting longer than that at this point. the main reason i switched to 2 piece is to drop unsprung and rotational mass in the front. i'm also using RB stainless pistons and high temp dust boots.
I'd like to add ducting, but, given my current schedule it won't be for at least half of the season.
Mar 28, 2015, 03:12 PM
#19
The site has the full list of what's better and why, but there's also that thread we had with all the photos. But in short it's WAY better then oem as it's meant for racing use and not street temps. Lighter, stronger, cheaper, etc. Rotor size is only slightly bigger in order to still let people use 17's and such. But rotor size shouldn't be 'the' deciding factor for numerous reasons.
Last edited by honda-guy; Mar 28, 2015 at 03:21 PM.
Mar 28, 2015, 03:19 PM
#20
Considering going with these for this year. Is there truth to the principle of 2-piece dissipating heat faster? I'm wondering if aside from weight benefit, if there is truth to them cooling better.
I'd like to add ducting, but, given my current schedule it won't be for at least half of the season.
I'd like to add ducting, but, given my current schedule it won't be for at least half of the season.
most two piece rotors have directional vanes, which makes air flow better inside the rotors than oem straight vanes. but some two piece rotors also have gaps between rotors and hat, which allows air to escape if you use brake duct. even if that's the case, brake duct is still put cold air in that area. so that's better than nothing.
Mar 28, 2015, 05:50 PM
#21
Do yourself a favor and get the Cirodesign Caster/Camber plates. Add the Perrin PSRS with offset and you can bump the caster up to 5.8 or so and still keep the wheel centered in the fenderwell.
Choose spring rates carefully. If you are going to get serious in TT3 then Hoosier A6/7's or BFG R1S will be required. Super sticky tires require more spring/roll bar to counter body roll. I'm currently on a very high spring rate setup with mild sway bars. I am going to order some different springs (and sway bars) to eventually try combos and see what feels best to me. But you have to control body roll because if you dont, you will tear through tires and be slow.
12 Plate diff mod or even upgraded rear diff should be on your short list. Game changer for these cars. ReaperX drove mine and wasted no time in modding his.
Choose spring rates carefully. If you are going to get serious in TT3 then Hoosier A6/7's or BFG R1S will be required. Super sticky tires require more spring/roll bar to counter body roll. I'm currently on a very high spring rate setup with mild sway bars. I am going to order some different springs (and sway bars) to eventually try combos and see what feels best to me. But you have to control body roll because if you dont, you will tear through tires and be slow.
12 Plate diff mod or even upgraded rear diff should be on your short list. Game changer for these cars. ReaperX drove mine and wasted no time in modding his.
Last edited by JDavenport; Mar 28, 2015 at 08:55 PM.
Mar 28, 2015, 09:13 PM
#24
i would consider them if i was doing w2w racing. but for TT, i usually only do a few hot laps and come in. and for DE, i usually run less sticky tires and lower power. i don't really have much complaint about stock brakes other than expensive pads and stupid dust boots disintegrating. although i've never driven a evo with proper BBK, i'm sure if i drove one, it would change my mind quick. lol
caliper flex
That is a set of XP12's after one day at Road Atl. Nearly 3mm of taper on the outer pad. That is purely caused by the outer side of the caliper flexing away from the rotor at the bottom. This gave me a 'spongy' pedal, which really caused me some uneasiness at Road Atl coming downhill at T10A. This was on NT01's before I moved on to Hoosiers.
The icing on the cake however is the pads for the AP kit are about 1/2 the price of Evo pads, 4mm thicker and last way longer. The taper caused my outside pad in the front to just evaporate. Uneven pressure across the face of the pad, hot spots and high wear rate. But the spongy pedal requiring the 'iron leg' effort pushed me away from the Brembo's.
Mar 29, 2015, 07:29 AM
#25
pad taper is also another issue with oem brakes. i find that different brand of pads have different amount of taper, and they tend to taper more when pads are new, and taper less as pads worn down. as far as pedal felling spongy, i don't really notice because i'm so focused on driving. cheaper pads are nice but that's also offset with more expensive rotors. but if the rotors last longer than OE replacement, that could offset the cost too. maybe i'll consider the essex bbk next year. already blew the mods budget for this year.
Mar 30, 2015, 07:38 AM
#26
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Not to get too far off track. Pad taper is a function of the way the rotor grows when hot. Hence the use of floating rotors.
I could only pull 8 full tilt laps at most any track before the pedal went long. The dust seals were toast after a 20 min DE session. Switched to the AP kit when faced with replacing pistons in the Brembos. Much lower consumables cost. The overall performance is incrementally better but I can hammer them lap after lap. The consistency is a marked improvement over the Brembo's.
I could only pull 8 full tilt laps at most any track before the pedal went long. The dust seals were toast after a 20 min DE session. Switched to the AP kit when faced with replacing pistons in the Brembos. Much lower consumables cost. The overall performance is incrementally better but I can hammer them lap after lap. The consistency is a marked improvement over the Brembo's.
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