More cooling with less air (closing off the nose)
#16
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killer. its basically the STM kit 2x. they use B&M cores.
rongdoer. yeah i was looking at that. i could pretty easily put a T divert valve on there. but like i said i think i am gonna go NASCAR style with tape this winter and see what that does. Not that i drive it much in the winter though. its not my daily driver.
rongdoer. yeah i was looking at that. i could pretty easily put a T divert valve on there. but like i said i think i am gonna go NASCAR style with tape this winter and see what that does. Not that i drive it much in the winter though. its not my daily driver.
did some more reading on CSF radiators, and multiple people have seen 20-30 degree drop in temps on various cars. has a pretty neat design too. if it can actually provide some slightly better cooling then i may be on the right path here.
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no, i am not moving the oil cooler because of the temps, i am moving it because i need to close the bumper inlet off to air flow and because one off track can easily take out the oil cooler.
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also, i know at least the puller fan is dual speed since i took control of it within the ROM but is the front ac fan also dual speed? just need to know for wiring since they will become single speed after replacement.
#20
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Nate, didn't you already post about this three years ago
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...fficiency.html
haven't had any heat issues with my setup. but i also don't have AC and run 320 whp. your car is starting to turn more into a track car and you're going to do TT soon. Take the AC out if you want to be competitive. if you're not doing everything you can to be competitive, then there's no point in competing, just keep running DE. /commute rant
actually i need you to pad the field so i can win tires
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...fficiency.html
haven't had any heat issues with my setup. but i also don't have AC and run 320 whp. your car is starting to turn more into a track car and you're going to do TT soon. Take the AC out if you want to be competitive. if you're not doing everything you can to be competitive, then there's no point in competing, just keep running DE. /commute rant
actually i need you to pad the field so i can win tires
Last edited by honda-guy; May 12, 2015 at 04:54 AM.
#21
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i did post about it 3 years ago, but i was attempting to lean more towards discussing coolant temp control since my dad is arguing that the car is just going to overheat constantly...doesnt seem anyone has much data tho so i may be on my own.
im not overly concerned with removing weight yet, way too many other things to dial in first. i told you, 50 bucks a day i pad the field to make sure you get 4 tires.
im not overly concerned with removing weight yet, way too many other things to dial in first. i told you, 50 bucks a day i pad the field to make sure you get 4 tires.
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yeah nemo was only about 500whp. from most recent motoiq article:
imho it was an engine issue not cooling. the car actually had what i would consider a pretty large cooling opening in the front bumper as well as a lot of air extraction on the hood.
STM makes a modified oem thermostat housing that accepts a water temp sensor which i like better than putting an adapter in the middle of the hose. i think im gonna make an attempt at designing an "experiment" to get some data on this. my bumper is on a quick release so it wouldnt be difficult to change the amount of air blocking over the course of 1 track day so that the ambient conditions were as close as possible.
David Lenthall from GT Auto verified this: “Chris brought the car for us to tune a new engine for WTAC. I set the boost for 20psi on the 25.7 sec lap and we got as high as 22-23psi on the 25.0 sec lap, that should be around 340-380 kW, the turbo is not very happy in that range. We had heard about the prior engines, they asked us to set it up conservatively until they got to the bottom of their engine program.” For us Yankees, that translates to about 450-500 wheel HP.
STM makes a modified oem thermostat housing that accepts a water temp sensor which i like better than putting an adapter in the middle of the hose. i think im gonna make an attempt at designing an "experiment" to get some data on this. my bumper is on a quick release so it wouldnt be difficult to change the amount of air blocking over the course of 1 track day so that the ambient conditions were as close as possible.
#28
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yeah nemo was only about 500whp. from most recent motoiq article:
imho it was an engine issue not cooling. the car actually had what i would consider a pretty large cooling opening in the front bumper as well as a lot of air extraction on the hood.
STM makes a modified oem thermostat housing that accepts a water temp sensor which i like better than putting an adapter in the middle of the hose. i think im gonna make an attempt at designing an "experiment" to get some data on this. my bumper is on a quick release so it wouldnt be difficult to change the amount of air blocking over the course of 1 track day so that the ambient conditions were as close as possible.
imho it was an engine issue not cooling. the car actually had what i would consider a pretty large cooling opening in the front bumper as well as a lot of air extraction on the hood.
STM makes a modified oem thermostat housing that accepts a water temp sensor which i like better than putting an adapter in the middle of the hose. i think im gonna make an attempt at designing an "experiment" to get some data on this. my bumper is on a quick release so it wouldnt be difficult to change the amount of air blocking over the course of 1 track day so that the ambient conditions were as close as possible.
MUT_REQUEST 10, ECU PIN 44
#29
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I think that was still talking about the first year in the MotoIQ article. I would have to go back and re-read it.
I am at ~500wheel but i havent spent enough time watching temps yet, nor have i driven it in anger at that power level. It over heated and blew a rad hose at its old 420hp setting on a stock block. But alot has changed since then so i still dont have any new data. I am hoping to get to the track in August once i finish my latest winter upgrades that at going to push into the summer. Bit off more then i could crew, but i digress.
I actually think the STM housing is a waste. Reason being, its after the T-stat.
Follow this how to and do it right.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...mp-sensor.html
its still not a perfect representation of the water temp, but its still far better then the STM. Can go wrong with it being in the same location as OEM.
I am at ~500wheel but i havent spent enough time watching temps yet, nor have i driven it in anger at that power level. It over heated and blew a rad hose at its old 420hp setting on a stock block. But alot has changed since then so i still dont have any new data. I am hoping to get to the track in August once i finish my latest winter upgrades that at going to push into the summer. Bit off more then i could crew, but i digress.
I actually think the STM housing is a waste. Reason being, its after the T-stat.
Follow this how to and do it right.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...mp-sensor.html
its still not a perfect representation of the water temp, but its still far better then the STM. Can go wrong with it being in the same location as OEM.
Last edited by fjm9898; May 14, 2015 at 09:22 AM.
#30
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that quote is from the article they put up a week or two ago so i think it was referring to the last time nemo showed up (so 2013? i cant remember). but either way.
thats an interesting point about the sensor location that i never considered, so thanks for sharing that.
on that note tho, im not sure how paranoid i am about the tstat sticking. Im more interested in the post tstat temps in the situation imho since i should know within one lap if something weird was going on (i would think). if i run the gauges in "parallel" leaving the stock gauge as is and only use an aftermarket to look at changes in temp from what im messing with i think ill be ok?
thats all also based on the fact that i have terrible luck threat tapping...
thats an interesting point about the sensor location that i never considered, so thanks for sharing that.
on that note tho, im not sure how paranoid i am about the tstat sticking. Im more interested in the post tstat temps in the situation imho since i should know within one lap if something weird was going on (i would think). if i run the gauges in "parallel" leaving the stock gauge as is and only use an aftermarket to look at changes in temp from what im messing with i think ill be ok?
thats all also based on the fact that i have terrible luck threat tapping...