LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

No solid info on it. Website doesn't say, and a google search didn't net any results.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I'm wondering does an Helical even work that way? The ramp angles effect clutch clamping load right? Helical works in a totally different way and perhaps that's why there is no info there.


I really want to get a 1way clutch front diff, just need to find a spare chunk of money considering all the other things I need to spend money on right now...

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't say, but all gear diffs are a "torque bias" diff. They list a bias ratio, but don't say if they're a 1 way, 1.5 way, or 2 way. I think when torque isn't being applied (off throttle), they open since there is no torque to bias, so they're a 1 way... I could be wrong?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

There is a decel torque which can be pretty high in 2nd gear. I really want a 1way up front considering how tight we turn off throttle.


Sent wavetrac an email asking. Their website says they have customizable options too so I'll also ask if 1way is a possibility.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Let me know what they say. I didn't notice any difference in what you're talking about when I switched to a wavetrac, and then when I switched back a to a stock diff (my spare tcase has a stock LSD in it).

RJones

iTrader: (5)

MFactory makes a 1/1.5 way clutch type front that's pretty reasonably priced. We just changed Isaac's from 1.5 to 1.0 way yesterday actually. I've got the Cusco unit set up as 1 way.

http://jdm.teammfactory.com/metal-plate-lsd_288

mantella

iTrader: (6)

once I get my rear diff issues sorted my next adventure will either be final drive or look more into the quaife front diff. I liked the cusco rear better then the current carbonetics I think but only a small difference

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Holy ****, how did I not realise this earlier...

Ive been trying to figure out bump steer issues but nothing is making sense based on my models. Just realized when I was out double checking measurements that we have like 7deg of caster. Thats a 3/4" difference in where the steering arm is compared to where I want it...

Im going to open up the steering arm mount, make the rod end spacer symmetric, and just use shim stacks since it obviously cant be one size fits all.

Feel like so much duh right now.

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

The more you can change, the more can be wrong.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I think I can make a basic equation that looks at just two variable for a starting point. The math is pretty easy and you can dial it in from there if you choose. Without taking into account caster, my bump steer was very noticeable driving and just jacking the car up and looking at the tires.

Meathooker

iTrader: (2)

by open up do you mean remove material and decrease strength?

Dave W.

Have you seen the generic adjustable bump steer mounts? I don't know if the evo uses 7 or 10 degree taper, but they also offer matching reamers. This will let you experiment and find the best position. see;
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...Heim,3333.html
and

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ree,29005.html

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Just need to shift the opening up by 0.37" which would be the lowest mount needed with stock caster and whiteline ball joint. Then make the mount area 10mm larger to account for worst case of stock ball joint and 6.5 deg of caster. Sounds like a lot, but its only a range of 0.95" adjustment.


The arms themselves will just be made that 10mm taller at the steering link end. Strength limit is still right where the steering arm meets the body but still higher (based on FEA at least) than the strength of the whiteline tie rod's stud or any of these aftermarket bump steer kits.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

To test my model assumptions, I just needed to flip the offset bushings I was planning on using and measure bumpsteer. That position just happens to be about perfect, conveniently .


Now I just gotta figure out a way to measure the bump steer without a fancy ($$$) kit. Thinking a laser and some paper on a board might do the trick. Visually though, before flipping the spacers I could see the bump steer when articulating the suspension (spring removed, jacked up the suspension and released). With the spacers flipped my eyeball isn't good enough to see any change.

Meathooker

iTrader: (2)

even that sounds like a huge improvement!