heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

So what are we saying is an acceptable amount of space between the bolt and the wheel? I dont have RPF1's thankfully but I'd like to be able to fit both my 17" NT03s and stock Enkeis if possible.

Are you talking about the inner tie rods? Thats actually something that I've never thought about. Most people go the route of welding on some spacer like the picture above but that is sorta annoying especially given the fact that those outers dont seem to last very long before they start clunking.

nollij

iTrader: (21)

CE28s have about 75mm from bottom of your upright to the wheel contact location.

Race Fab and Nagisa arms with longer shanks will both work if you take a couple threads off. I hadn't considered the barrel of the wheel being vastly different between vehicles.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I'll measure my RPF1 barrel diameter to get an idea of what the limit is here.

2winscroll

2winscroll

T4 twin scroll I made

2winscroll

Also made all the charge pipes

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

gnarly setup

2winscroll

Thanks V8mr! Really really BIG turbo

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

So looks like the ID of RPF1 barrels are 16.5". So if you want to clear my uprights with WL ball joints or with the new control arms, measure where the wheels on the plane the ball joint lives. If its greater than 16.5" then its good to go.

kikiturbo

yes, inner ones... It is a pretty common part, it is just a matter of finding what works from which model, and what is available... Of course total length will depend on what type of outer tie rod joint you are using, since stock ones are longer than the standard female rod end that you might use in a more serious conversion.
I am not too fond of extender pieces or welding anything on there..

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

OK Ill take a look when I have a moment. I think if you can fit your RPF1s then they should also fit My race wheels are the 18's but I think Im going to make my 17's my rain setup so if theuy dont fit, which I dont think is the case now then that would be a bummer. And hopefully soon eva will retire from snow duty too so the stock wheels wont get any more use but nonetheless Id prefer if I could fit them all for obvious reasons.

Its funny that nobody seems to think of switching the inners. Do you happen to have a measurement of how much longer the ones from the X are relative to your stock ones?

I've wanted to swap on X control arms but now the stuff that Dallas is making is very tempting so I may just stake it out for now. And while wider track in the front is nice fitment is always a concern when you're pushing the envelope and with a 10.5" wheel and an effective +13 offset it already sticks out pretty far.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I think we'll find most 17s fit and preliminary checks from Mike Brausen on his FP Evo I think a few select 16s will even work. Maybe it will need a slightly shorter stud, but I can get those made for around $50ea if someone really wants a one off specific thing.

One of the things we all definitely find is one size fits all doesn't really exist. We all have different needs or thoughts on what's best. So having a bit of flexibility is certainly useful. Its actually why I went with a 3peice upright design. The idea being the strut mount part can be swapped out later when I design the SLA setup.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

STM is working on getting me this CSF radiator. Yeah, its not custom, its similar to the CBRD, but without the wait. Their distributor just needs to add the part number to their catalogue. the CSF7075 part number.


http://csfrace.com/product/mitsubishi-racing-radiators/

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Is this superior to a Koyo? Maybe lighter? I'm surprised more people dont do Evo6 radiators as they are drop in besides the upper hose which seems more logical than the OE one right at the exhaust manifold.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Sweet good to hear and to your point there is always the option of a shorter stud assuming the strength of the head is still there.

And all very true about the one size fits all. Especially when youre trying to maximize the setup. If you try to accommodate different things then there will be sacrifices. And fitment is all over the map. Even someone with same wheels and tires same suspension then you have things like ride height alignment etc. that will all come into play. So what is this talk about an SLA? You probably shouldnt have openened up your mouth bc that sounds all too interesting

Isnt the Koyo pretty thick? One thing to keep in mind when it comes to weights of radiators is you must factor in the volume as coolant/water adds weight too.

But Im also very interested in what LGTD finds as Im still somehow rockin my factory radiator so its only a matter of time until the end tanks start spewing green stuff