Lets See Those Custom Parts v.2023
Jun 10, 2017, 11:29 AM
#211
Had to take a couple weeks off making progress to get the new engine build started (2.3l blew up after 2.5 years of banging off 7800-8200, depending on event, rev limiter).
Got these in for the control arms so I can finish up a batch of just 3. Right now Professional Awesome, EvoBro, and myself are the only ones with the arms. By the time these are finished they should have verified the arms can handle "it"
Spacers are 303ss, chosen because aluminum wasnt the right thing considering the bolting compression and 303 is a free machining stainless steel. The ball joints are 4140 normalized and ground to right diameter on both sides. They also have full annular groove instead of the single spot like OEM (which was always annoying to me)
Got these in for the control arms so I can finish up a batch of just 3. Right now Professional Awesome, EvoBro, and myself are the only ones with the arms. By the time these are finished they should have verified the arms can handle "it"
Spacers are 303ss, chosen because aluminum wasnt the right thing considering the bolting compression and 303 is a free machining stainless steel. The ball joints are 4140 normalized and ground to right diameter on both sides. They also have full annular groove instead of the single spot like OEM (which was always annoying to me)
Jun 12, 2017, 07:29 AM
#215
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Even more annoying that whiteline copied the OEM groove since the whiteline bj stud fits even tighter in the knuckle, and is harder to get in and out...lol
Jul 9, 2017, 03:04 AM
#216
Evolved Member
working on something..
Jul 10, 2017, 07:38 AM
#220
This should be a pretty good thing for those that can rightfully change the subframe geometry though you do get limited on moving the control arms up at the back of the arm from the body. Seems like you could get an inch or so of correction there along with lots of weight loss.
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kikiturbo (Jul 10, 2017)
Jul 10, 2017, 09:44 AM
#221
Evolved Member
No, I was inspired by Dallas and we did have some semiprivate discusisons about evo geo at some point.. ... but this could be good with his uprights.. hehehe
the geo is changed somewhat.. Basically, I am dropping the outer ball joints by 25 mm with a extension piece to be welded onto the knuckle (similar to rally R4 piece but I will weld it on for safety). In the subframe there is space to raise the inner points by about 10 to 15 mm, depending on how much anti dive you want to keep in the system. Both pickups are vertical now, so the front one can be adjusted in height too. Front pickup is moved forward a bit, to have better geo on the A arm, and outer bottom ball joint is pushed out by 15 mm and forward by about 12 or so. Top of the struit goes back 30 mm and out 15. THis keeps the kingpin angle stock, and gives me about 8.2 deg caster with wheel in stock position (fore aft, track is 30mm wider overall). No adjustment on top mounts, and struit is modified so that I can adjust the camber on the struit... will show when welded.. it is simple.
There are a few important design challenges.. I did not go for min weight.. My opinion is that most of the lightweight subframes are not stiff enough... which is ok for drag but not for me.
This is why the lower crossbrace is welded on the frame, which made the exhaust routing a bit of an issue. For this the rack is raised by 10 mm which is max what can be done due to transfer box being there and needing some space for engine movement. Good thing about rack move is that I need less correction on the knuckle to have no bump steer.
Also, I run long travel shocks, so have a lot of arm movement to deal with.. about +- 11,5 deg so I need to take care about spherical bearing movement.... Also, I am not lowering the car too much as this is road and track solution, not for AX where you usually lower the car more.
This is work in progress and just some of the things we are developing here..
... but this could be good with his uprights.. hehehethe geo is changed somewhat.. Basically, I am dropping the outer ball joints by 25 mm with a extension piece to be welded onto the knuckle (similar to rally R4 piece but I will weld it on for safety). In the subframe there is space to raise the inner points by about 10 to 15 mm, depending on how much anti dive you want to keep in the system. Both pickups are vertical now, so the front one can be adjusted in height too. Front pickup is moved forward a bit, to have better geo on the A arm, and outer bottom ball joint is pushed out by 15 mm and forward by about 12 or so. Top of the struit goes back 30 mm and out 15. THis keeps the kingpin angle stock, and gives me about 8.2 deg caster with wheel in stock position (fore aft, track is 30mm wider overall). No adjustment on top mounts, and struit is modified so that I can adjust the camber on the struit... will show when welded.. it is simple.
There are a few important design challenges.. I did not go for min weight.. My opinion is that most of the lightweight subframes are not stiff enough... which is ok for drag but not for me.
This is why the lower crossbrace is welded on the frame, which made the exhaust routing a bit of an issue. For this the rack is raised by 10 mm which is max what can be done due to transfer box being there and needing some space for engine movement. Good thing about rack move is that I need less correction on the knuckle to have no bump steer.
Also, I run long travel shocks, so have a lot of arm movement to deal with.. about +- 11,5 deg so I need to take care about spherical bearing movement.... Also, I am not lowering the car too much as this is road and track solution, not for AX where you usually lower the car more.
This is work in progress and just some of the things we are developing here..
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alpinaturbo (Jul 10, 2017)
Jul 10, 2017, 10:37 AM
#222
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
you moved the front forward and up? So now it'll be impossible to get the trans out without completely dropping the subframe lol
Jul 10, 2017, 11:13 AM
#223
Evolved Member
also, the pickup point is moved forward.. the overall outside dimensions of the subframe is within stock.. also, the lower crossbrace has pretty much identical ground clearence to the stock e9 subframe re-enforcement cross braces, without even the washers usually used for 3 inch downpipes
to my defence, everything is now setup for unbolting from below.. so basically you can remove the whole subframe while leaving the steering rack, A arms, ARB and even the rear engine mount on the car.. so 4x14 mm bolts, 2 big nuts, 5x12 mm bolts and 4x8mm bolts for the arb and it is off... I always hated having to unhook the steering column from the rack..
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alpinaturbo (Jul 10, 2017)
Jul 10, 2017, 12:50 PM
#224
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Oh. If it's that easy to pull, that awesome. I usually just deal with fighting to get the trans in with the subframe dropped about 1-2in instead of taking the column off the rack. But with your design, sounds like the subframe can come out in about 10 minutes with an impact gun...lol
Jul 10, 2017, 01:12 PM
#225
Evolved Member
Oh. If it's that easy to pull, that awesome. I usually just deal with fighting to get the trans in with the subframe dropped about 1-2in instead of taking the column off the rack. But with your design, sounds like the subframe can come out in about 10 minutes with an impact gun...lol