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I got stalled with trying to figure out how to make it work on the Flags because there's much less spacing available but the DFV's should work with a little tweak. New CNC should be here in the next few weeks so I can get back to making parts again.
For now I have two sets of uprights but some new tighter steering spacers getting made (will be sending out to all the former buyers free too, will make me happier having a better designed spacer out there). Also the trailing arms for the control arms should be done this week with zinc plating and I'll have 4 sets of those available.
Starting to also look at making a more street friendly 1.25" correction (vs the race mode 2" correction) but its not quite cut and dry with fitting the steering arm. Just things to do of course.
After driving all these years with the jdm evo 9 rear bumper with no crash beam I decided it was time to get one. Was tired of the license plate not sitting level & plumb and wanted some extra protection. Looked online to see what was available but didn't find one I liked, so decided to get a local shop to make one. Main requirements was beam that curves to the corner, frame mount that includes the plate lights, and sturdy. Here is what they came up with.
To be more accurate - moly is stiffer then mild, so when used it can be used with a thinner wall thickness then mild - hence on the same "part" it can and should be lighter. But yes like for like it's steel and weights the same. Mild's just cheaper usually.
To be more accurate - moly is stiffer then mild, so when used it can be used with a thinner wall thickness then mild - hence on the same "part" it can and should be lighter. But yes like for like it's steel and weights the same. Mild's just cheaper usually.
Stiffness (modulus of elasticity on material charts), and weight (density) is the same for all the variety of steels. Its pretty much all around 200-210gpa and 7.8g/cc. Whats different is the yield strength and other factors like corrosion resistance, weldability, heat treatable, etc.
The same effect is in all the variety of aluminum and is why I use 6061 instead of 7075 for most my parts. I care about stiffness so yield strength is plenty high for a solid factor of safety at worst case.
Alright guys, finally have my trailing bars back from zinc plating and 3 sets available. First one is assembled here to take a couple pictures of then Im boxing up the 3 sets ready to ship. $900+shipping on these first parts with uncoated aluminum. I'll eventually have 5 of these then later will work on a second batch of 10 or so which will get an etching and clear anodized.
I need to check with two guys that had dibs but for sure 1 set is available now with more coming. As usual, these a bolt on and go with everything you need.
Did some double checks to verify geometry changes, length is 1-2mm longer than stock (call it equal after caster applied), min caster is 0.5deg greater than stock with far more caster than you can use available. Pair these with offset top hats and 7-8deg is easy with keeping top hat camber adjustment or 9+ with fixed top plates set way back. Both are available through me as well.
Alright guys, finally have my trailing bars back from zinc plating and 3 sets available. First one is assembled here to take a couple pictures of then Im boxing up the 3 sets ready to ship. $900+shipping on these first parts with uncoated aluminum. I'll eventually have 5 of these then later will work on a second batch of 10 or so which will get an etching and clear anodized.
I need to check with two guys that had dibs but for sure 1 set is available now with more coming. As usual, these a bolt on and go with everything you need.
Did some double checks to verify geometry changes, length is 1-2mm longer than stock (call it equal after caster applied), min caster is 0.5deg greater than stock with far more caster than you can use available. Pair these with offset top hats and 7-8deg is easy with keeping top hat camber adjustment or 9+ with fixed top plates set way back. Both are available through me as well.
Dallas, just kind of a random thought for your rear uprights, but calipers with electronic ebrakes are becoming pretty common. Wonder if there is an OEM caliper out of something newer that could add an ebrake but keep things lighter and simple.
Guess you could add two line lock cylinders and do it with any caliper... Not really an e-brake but it would get parking duties done.
If you do any drag racing or ProSolo's the handbrake is pretty critical for launching. Thought something like a second caliper would be possible but I don't see why it would be any better than just sticking with the OEM since we know that works.
The new cars all coming out have some struggles at Prosolo's since they are parking lots and sometimes have a bit of slope. Not uncommon for them to roll back out of the lights.
I was looking into using a small hydraulic cylinder in the rear parking brake mechanism instead of mechanical link.. Tough to do with the stock upright but maybe a custom upright could make it work..
Aug 20, 2017, 09:35 PM
