Originally Posted by Dallas J

Yep, I sell most of the things. I just have to be carefull Im not advertising here and just stick to answering direct questions. Still working on updating my website and will get prices on there soon for all my stuff but it will always be individual sales cause just a side hobby for me.

On the top of what Im making, I have material on the way to make the V2 uprights in a short version. These are 1.25" of offset for the street guys or shorter wheels. Also have a EvoX upright on the way to get the ABS measurements and make couple sets for those. Have 2 guys asking specifically so time to start making something for "those" guys.

I should also start looking at making a 3/4" longer control arm for the EvoX and widebody 8/9 guys. Shouldn't be a hard change but do need to do some FEA checks and the steering angle fit checks.

Originally Posted by ayoustin

What would be the benefit of a longer lca for the ct9a guys?

Also, I'm planning to buy a set of your top hats for my flags while I have them apart for cleaning this winter. My concern is them pulling the wheel further back in the wheel arch and my tires already rub the backside of the wheel well. Are there any other ways I can pull it back forward other than an antilift bushing kit for the lca?

Originally Posted by Dallas J

Its really a combination thing depending on your tire size and current clearance. As youve seen, moving back can be tough for clearance unless you have an offset rear bushing (pretty common) or something like my LCA's with an adjustable trailing arm length.

On my car, I've played with how much offset at the top with pushing the wheel as far forward as possible to keep in the 7-8deg caster range. Pushing the wheel forward really helps with clearance on the rear fender well and also has some effects of taking weight off the tires. Small change of course, but every bit of trying to get wheels ahead of the motor help.

Heh, that makes me wonder if I can do something really crazy and move them way forward to the limits of the axle angle.

Originally Posted by RJones

All of Dallas' custom parts make for good artwork for your shelves too

Originally Posted by RJones

All of Dallas' custom parts make for good artwork for your shelves too

Originally Posted by ayoustin

Right now my tires are a 275/35/18 so I think it's somewhere around 25.5". Do your control arms work with factory knuckles?

I feel like moving them to the limit of the axles rotation would cause premature wear issues. Only one way to find out.

Originally Posted by Dallas J

Yep, All my parts have kept the factory style interfaces so people could pick and choose what they want. I'm doing the two X uprights once material shows up but I can get to the design for longer control arms if that's something you're wanting.

Originally Posted by Dallas J

For the guys with 315s, you get to a point where you have push the wheel out further. That increases scrub radius a lot. Im sure you can google why too much scrub isnt great, but Its going to give you a lot of swing of the tire and have more effects on torque steer.

For the average guy, and even myself running 295s, I'll stick with my normal length arms. EvoX guys just have longer arms to start with so they'll need the longer version anyways.

Originally Posted by ayoustin

Haha I'd absolutely love to move to a 315/30 as it's shorter than my 275/35 and obviously wider, but my refusal to move away from stock body panels might make that possibility a pipe dream. With a 315 I think stock length would work as long as the wheel setup is right. I don't think the wisefab kits uses longer lcas does it?

Originally Posted by Dallas J

Im not here to bash anyone cause I always appreciate other innovators, but...