When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The output of your 3D scanner is impressive. How accurate do you estimate the model is across the 15' length of the Evo?
Not sure TBH. I know locally the tolerance is pretty good, certainly sub mm as it interpolates points in the scan. Using targets really helps too as it gets those locations pretty tight.
Onto the scanning stuff, spent a ton of time cleaning details and a very short time adding planes for the tires and outer flare lip to just get something quick and dirty in place. These are real dirty, but this style of approach was my original plan but with a bit more refinement. Id like to design something a bit more than just these and will keep playing with it. I have some ideas of how to do the CAD and get good results, but surfaces are tricky.
Even if I come up with something, there is a good chance this is what I'll end up doing cause I also like this style as well.
This is super cool! I think if you can taper the sharp edges it'll look more proper. Crude edit but something to bring it back to the stock body lines where you dont actually need the additional room.
Curious, once you have your design what is your plan to have it built? Planning on subbing it out or is this a DIY sorta thing? Also, what materials are you hoping to use?
I like it. However I'll disagree with heel2toe about the extensions because for those of us who plan to run a chopped 7/8 rear bumper it would present an issue.
I'm curious what the performance advantage is with the flairs? Seems like extra weight to me.
and the scanner is badass. what model is that?
Honestly its probably 90% cosmetic if not more. I dont like the flares I have, they feel janky and no rear flares is lame with my hacked up fenders. But it does at least cover the leading edge of the tires and maybe get a weeee bit more function from the splitter.
Scanner is Peel2. It works pretty good for structured light. Would love to get a laser scanner but damn that price jump is steep.
So I've been professionally using Solidworks for 13 years and learned it a few years before that, but this one has been really tricky. Creating this lip offset from the NURBs surface I created in VXelements has been a huge pain to figure out. SW really isnt the greatest surfacing program but I dont know Rhino so this is what I'm stuck with. But I figured it out finally even if in my eyes it isnt pretty (I'd have to walk you through the details to explain my grievances with it). But I got my VHB offset lip to attach things.
And I decide to stick with running the flare down to the side skirt but I will taper it at the end. But the flare will help keep all them dang rocks off the side of the car thats already pretty beat up. And I'll put a vent in the back edge of the flare for air to escape so I'm not making a parachute.
Cleaned up the back edge and created the rear flare with a lip I can 3d print and then VHB into place. Why? Cause I'll probably run a 3d printed flare for a while because it will be fun before I make a plug for a carbon part. Just like the fun of running the old taped on LeCroix flares, I think it will be fun to do these in stupid miss-matched colors just because.
Front edges is just squared off right now. Still trying to figure out what I want to do there. On the front edge I'll have to set it up to drop down to the splitter. Rear flares front edge I might just do a similar thing as the rear edge. And I still need to split it up for both print size and for the door split. But as it is, if I had a big enough printer I could just print it and stick it on now. They're fully solid parts.
If you're following here you're probably following there... But heres the 3d print and just taped together version. Im making a few changes to them from just my preference but its pretty interesting overall to me. This print is a 3mm wall but I may re-shell it to a 1mm wall and use that as a support for a carbon overlay. That will make it a fair bit more permanent and will still be VHB'd onto the car.
(Not sure if multi picture IG posts work here... if not will upload)
Pretty sure they're intended for use as an extension for voltex but still fit the oe metal pretty nice. Would probably be pretty easy to get a mold made of them and make them from carbon.
Yes, it says in the comments that they were made for Voltex over fenders.
Originally Posted by ayoustin
Pretty sure they're intended for use as an extension for voltex but still fit the oe metal pretty nice. Would probably be pretty easy to get a mold made of them and make them from carbon.
The voltex lip does end up looking clean enough but doesnt allow you to get low enough. The lip doesnt land high enough, at least for my application.
The front of my car could work with the WRC fenders but I dont know if those will work on an Evo if you can even find them. I think the WRC cars actually started from base lancers.
You can get WRC Fenders in Poland. They are not even expensive.
The guys that build WRC Evo "replica" based on CT9A chassis of course. They have full body kit exact to WRC specs.
I seen it in person, it is well done.
I think VARIS front fenders give you a lot of room, and rear may also give a lot of room, they are generously proportioned, boxy but functional.
Ken Twaits car with Voltex over-fenders, running 19's, looks nice. Bare in mind - similar to you - they competed between cones and it was specific purpose to keep car as narrow as possible while covering 19's.
Nov 7, 2020, 04:52 PM
