Lets See Those Custom Parts v.2023
#901
EvoM Guru
The ACD i just worked out which wires to the dash were for indication of the lights, Theres 3 wires 1 for each mode, they are negatively switched so all you do is run a common power 12v wire and then ground via those 3 wires, Depending on which mode the ACD is in it will open the selected ground path for that light.
So i bought 3x 12v bulkhead LED's and supplied them with a common fused power source. And then the negative side of the LED i hooked up to the wires that used to go to the dash cluster.
The Aim Dash talks to the Haltech via CANBUS the ACD system isnt affected by this.
So i bought 3x 12v bulkhead LED's and supplied them with a common fused power source. And then the negative side of the LED i hooked up to the wires that used to go to the dash cluster.
The Aim Dash talks to the Haltech via CANBUS the ACD system isnt affected by this.
#902
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Part request - rear tie down bracket with loops that don't stick down "too far" but are out of the way of rear splitters. This would come off of the 2 rear diff bolts and allow you to stick in a mac's hook easily. Tires are wider then the anchor points on the trailer, axel straps WITH large diffusers are becoming a royal pain and it tends to pull on it, and the rear t-hook anchor points on the chassis are simply nu-reachable once in said trailer.
It would look like: \___/ or
It would look like: \___/ or
#903
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
I can easily do that for you. To be clear, you're talking about the two unused lower posts on the rear cover? Shoot me a photo of the underside of your car or an approximate angle you think they need to be bent at along with how long they need to be. I can get them drawn up this week and mail you some printed ones to make sure they fit right before moving to metal.
#904
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Nah I'm think the two bottom heavy 17 or 19mm bolts just in front of that on the sub frame.
For the Evo X that's a bit more tricky. I suppose we could use the nuts off of the camber arms on the lower sub frame. But the Varis rear diffuser sticks down below that. Haven't tried putting it back on yet with the Invidia muffler sitting there.
For the Evo X that's a bit more tricky. I suppose we could use the nuts off of the camber arms on the lower sub frame. But the Varis rear diffuser sticks down below that. Haven't tried putting it back on yet with the Invidia muffler sitting there.
#908
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
Yea I wasn't keen on the rear diff cover either, the subframe bolts make way more sense.
I do have concerns about exhaust clearance but I suppose that would depend on where your rungs are in the trailer. I think the design I would do is a single large loop big enough for both straps to clip into and uses both of those subframe bolts to mount. If you had two hooks with each one mounted with one bolt there is no way to prevent the straps from rotating the hooks as they tighten which could potentially untorque the bolts.
As for folding, I'd have to think about it a bit but I'd imagine it'd increase price a fair bit. Doing a single body loop would be reasonably cheap. I'll get a quick mock up design done in a few mins to show my intentions.
I do have concerns about exhaust clearance but I suppose that would depend on where your rungs are in the trailer. I think the design I would do is a single large loop big enough for both straps to clip into and uses both of those subframe bolts to mount. If you had two hooks with each one mounted with one bolt there is no way to prevent the straps from rotating the hooks as they tighten which could potentially untorque the bolts.
As for folding, I'd have to think about it a bit but I'd imagine it'd increase price a fair bit. Doing a single body loop would be reasonably cheap. I'll get a quick mock up design done in a few mins to show my intentions.
#911
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
These should be minimal. Billet or the like to keep weight down. We don't care how much it costs if it works like it should lol. I was thinking one piece too. But...If you did two 90 degree brackets that a red folding tow hook thingie there is plenty of things we can do to lock those babies in place. Easiest is what I've been doing all winter. Get motorcycle bolts that are pre-drilled and safety wire them to each other. Nord locks, loctite, rat-a-tat the hell out of it. She ain't gonna come off if the hooks can swivel up and down. But then....why two, couldn't we just use the driver side one with a folding loop big enough for two strap hooks.
With that design it could be "long enough" downward to clear any exhaust setup anyone has, yet fold up out of the way so as not to cause drag. My trailer has both traditional 4 point D rings on each corner but also airline track down the insides of the tires. But with all that you still have to get it out from under the car to get any kind of ratcheting on it.
With that design it could be "long enough" downward to clear any exhaust setup anyone has, yet fold up out of the way so as not to cause drag. My trailer has both traditional 4 point D rings on each corner but also airline track down the insides of the tires. But with all that you still have to get it out from under the car to get any kind of ratcheting on it.