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Definitely not as trick as some of your guys work spaces but we make it work. I used to have the whole area to myself but my partner managed to squeeze her car in there too now so i have to share. Least i can just start hers up and put it outside if i need to work on mine haha. One day ill get a nice big shed like you guys but super hard down here as real estate is very expensive
There is something to be said about "attached" or at least a breezeway, enclosed or open. The "oh sh*t I forgot xyz" when you're half dressed moments. Though...that likely wouldn't stop me either. Free show for the neighbors lol.
I like the detached Mostly because of fire hazard cases.
Isn't 6" too short? I thought "most" lifts require minimum 3500 + 8 inches unless you're thinking of doing maxjax or something?
There is something to be said about "attached" or at least a breezeway, enclosed or open. The "oh sh*t I forgot xyz" when you're half dressed moments. Though...that likely wouldn't stop me either. Free show for the neighbors lol.
I like the detached Mostly because of fire hazard cases.
Isn't 6" too short? I thought "most" lifts require minimum 3500 + 8 inches unless you're thinking of doing maxjax or something?
Most 10k lb 2 posts only need 4.5" of 3500psi concrete.
Yep, what Sean said. 6" fiber reinforced will be plenty for both the lift and the CNCs. My machine now is on 4" standard garage concrete and splitting a control cut. Not ideal but I also have it set on 6 1" thick 12x12 steel pads. New shop I specified the control cut locations for CNC and lift placement so hopefully that all worked out right. This drawing is close to what it ended up at. The 2ft from edge we just left un-cut so its 10x12' squares along the back wall and 10x10 for most the shop. They wanted to do 8x8 but I thought that was way to small and online sources say 12-18' cuts for 6" concrete.
I'm still working on how I want to place the machines but this is what I'm leaning towards, or something like it. The small machine is my current VF2, the bigger would be an added VF3ss. Obviously nothing is set in stone but I do have to figure it out sooner than later because moving wiring to the machines isn't free. Also I "think" Ill get a VF3 but its possible I get a Y-axis lathe and bar feed instead.
Yep, what Sean said. 6" fiber reinforced will be plenty for both the lift and the CNCs. My machine now is on 4" standard garage concrete and splitting a control cut. Not ideal but I also have it set on 6 1" thick 12x12 steel pads. New shop I specified the control cut locations for CNC and lift placement so hopefully that all worked out right. This drawing is close to what it ended up at. The 2ft from edge we just left un-cut so its 10x12' squares along the back wall and 10x10 for most the shop. They wanted to do 8x8 but I thought that was way to small and online sources say 12-18' cuts for 6" concrete.
I'm still working on how I want to place the machines but this is what I'm leaning towards, or something like it. The small machine is my current VF2, the bigger would be an added VF3ss. Obviously nothing is set in stone but I do have to figure it out sooner than later because moving wiring to the machines isn't free. Also I "think" Ill get a VF3 but its possible I get a Y-axis lathe and bar feed instead.
looking good. I’m excited to see your progress. How’s the house coming along?
Yep, what Sean said. 6" fiber reinforced will be plenty for both the lift and the CNCs. My machine now is on 4" standard garage concrete and splitting a control cut. Not ideal but I also have it set on 6 1" thick 12x12 steel pads. New shop I specified the control cut locations for CNC and lift placement so hopefully that all worked out right. This drawing is close to what it ended up at. The 2ft from edge we just left un-cut so its 10x12' squares along the back wall and 10x10 for most the shop. They wanted to do 8x8 but I thought that was way to small and online sources say 12-18' cuts for 6" concrete.
I'm still working on how I want to place the machines but this is what I'm leaning towards, or something like it. The small machine is my current VF2, the bigger would be an added VF3ss. Obviously nothing is set in stone but I do have to figure it out sooner than later because moving wiring to the machines isn't free. Also I "think" Ill get a VF3 but its possible I get a Y-axis lathe and bar feed instead.
I did 4" concrete in parking areas and 5-6 in work/lift areas. But I also did 3' x4', 12" deep pads where I was possibly going to put in 2 posts.
Maybe not be required, but not like it took a bunch of extra concrete.
I also used a thick (15 mil thick) vapor barrier from this place. I wanted something thick enough it would not be punctured from mesh or during
floor install, I'm surrounded by forest and the property is real "wet" overall, but inside barn is consistently mid 60's humidity with no dehumidifiers.
Something to think about before floor.
Whats it take these days to have a solid floor with no cuts? I've seen so many shops, showrooms, warehouses, etc that don't have the cuts to prevent the cracks and they have no cracks usually.
Whats it take these days to have a solid floor with no cuts? I've seen so many shops, showrooms, warehouses, etc that don't have the cuts to prevent the cracks and they have no cracks usually.
Dirt prep, IMO. I went crazy over the top (probably), cutting down 117 trees, digging out stumps, and putting dirt back 8-12" at time, using a tamper at each level.
Took months, but I just don't see how someone coming in, tearing out trees and stumps, tossing upwards of 9 feet of dirt back (some of the pine's had that depth tap root),
all in couple days, and then think you can put a floor over that without it settling for a couple months.
When I go to big box stores near me, their floors are cracked all over the place. I had the cuts done, but only one 4" long crack, on outside corner pad.
Zero cracks on the inside 3000 sq ft, for 8 years now.
As far as cracks, my concrete guy used inlaid plastic expansion joints and then trowelled over them. Small surface crack but it will be invisible once I get it epoxied.
I finally had electrical done in my garage. Had a 100 amp service brought into a separate breaker panel in the garage, several outlets, as well as 220v outlets. And an exterior breaker for the minisplit I just ordered.
Went with 18k BTU 21 SEER Hyper Heat Mitsubishi unit. More expensive than Chinese brands but call it a political expense.
Was gonna order maxjax but I see Danmar raised the price SIGNIFICANTLY...
Dirt prep, IMO. I went crazy over the top (probably), cutting down 117 trees, digging out stumps, and putting dirt back 8-12" at time, using a tamper at each level.
Took months, but I just don't see how someone coming in, tearing out trees and stumps, tossing upwards of 9 feet of dirt back (some of the pine's had that depth tap root),
all in couple days, and then think you can put a floor over that without it settling for a couple months.
When I go to big box stores near me, their floors are cracked all over the place. I had the cuts done, but only one 4" long crack, on outside corner pad.
Zero cracks on the inside 3000 sq ft, for 8 years now.
We didnt have to add any dirt back in, only dig away to build back up with gravel. Our lot was build out with about 12 other lots 20 years ago and the family has only sold a couple since most are saved for their relatives. But its flat/graded and irrigated so even in the craziest of wet time nothing gets soupy.
Our concrete was poured last week, so need at least month before I can start loading the heavy things on it.
How you get a CN9A in the states?! nice be worth a mint up there! evo 2 or 3?
Originally Posted by V.8MR
As far as cracks, my concrete guy used inlaid plastic expansion joints and then trowelled over them. Small surface crack but it will be invisible once I get it epoxied.
I finally had electrical done in my garage. Had a 100 amp service brought into a separate breaker panel in the garage, several outlets, as well as 220v outlets. And an exterior breaker for the minisplit I just ordered.
Went with 18k BTU 21 SEER Hyper Heat Mitsubishi unit. More expensive than Chinese brands but call it a political expense.
Was gonna order maxjax but I see Danmar raised the price SIGNIFICANTLY...
We didnt have to add any dirt back in, only dig away to build back up with gravel. Our lot was build out with about 12 other lots 20 years ago and the family has only sold a couple since most are saved for their relatives. But its flat/graded and irrigated so even in the craziest of wet time nothing gets soupy.
Our concrete was poured last week, so need at least month before I can start loading the heavy things on it.
That's awesome not really having to clear (or worry about swampy areas).
My town has a "tree law" that you can only cut down wherever you are going to build.
So only about 3/4 of an acre out of my 5, was cleared when I got here.
Nov 30, 2021, 10:02 AM
