psushoe

iTrader: (8)

Not that I ever planned to use Weir parts in my diff, but that just convinced me to never buy from them.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

clutch type diffs will work with rears listed, weir is completely wrong there.

part of the reasons I've made threads like this one, the rear diff one, acd is to proliferate some of the research and info i dig up. it's so difficult for gentlemen racers on budgets to get info on set up

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely, and the tribal knowledge people have and dont know they can/should share sometimes comes out. At the end of the day, we just want to be faster than the "other guys" so I have no qualms letting anyone know my setups here. #MakingEvosGreaterStill

SilviaVsSupra

Today, I ran my first event with Weir 12 plate Maxx Lock installed. It was a lot to digest to say the least and I totally am understanding more of what Kyoo has been on about now.

First some background, car is a 2003 so no ACD and no front LSD, used strictly for AutoX. 275 slicks, 12/14k, and it previously had understeer issues on exit when getting onto power, but entry was pretty much perfect. So in the hunt for entry oversteer on tight turns, I installed the weir maxx lock 12 plate kit. (I know its not highly regarded here but I had it on the shelf and I figured it couldn't HURT... right?.. heh..)
1st thing, still no power oversteer.
2nd thing, still no entry oversteer, now rear diff lock is pushing the car on entry... hard!
No rotation at all without giving it a flick. Where I previously would be able to trail brake, I was now understeering as the rear kept pushing into the entry.
It was really a struggle to learn how to cooperate with this thing pushing, the power-understeer was even worse than before. Plus not being able to get the entry oversteer I was looking for, I was left with needing to brake earlier. Bummer.

I think this is may be a bit particular for my setup; more tire than power, under sprung, no front lsd or acd. Regardless, I see desire for a 1.0 rear diff now. What I had previously was a heavily worn OEM unit and it was much more compliant with turn-in.

For now I need to figure out how to change my driving style to more effectively use the 1.5 to my advantage. At least while its still functioning.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

it's interesting that the on-power understeer is worse than before, should have at least improved, but what you're saying about the off-throttle understeer makes sense. that's also a ton of grip you've got in the rear, which i think will especially highlight diff lock-up when off-throttle. I didn't feel like I had that much entry/transition understeer on stock width tires, actually the opposite. when i started going wider however, a lot more push.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I think you installed the side gears backwards and the ramp is facing the wrong way.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

this sounds probably given the symptoms described

kaj

iTrader: (60)

That's what happened with mine. Supposedly, like, three people checked it before install It is now oriented correctly, but still doesn't work. I'm guessing having it in backward wore it out to the point that it doesn't work any more.
I'm wondering if the install instructions are incorrect or something. Seems weird that this would happen more than once.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Having them backwards would very quickly wear the clutches since you have a 1way diff, but in the wrong direction lol

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

spoke with OSG over the phone as I try to nail down this setup.

apparently they do not sell a 1-way at all, so 1.1-way with a 3 degree cam angle is the mildest, which honestly is nearly nothing. Given that they still think, despite my description, that the 1.5-way is still going to be appropriate, I'm comfortable with this. The springs and washer will be standard.

On the acceleration side, the standard angle is 45 degrees. They go more aggressive from there, 50, 55 degrees. How do I know what's enough, and what's too much? I think the Cusco is 45 degrees and I'd like a little more, so I'm looking then at 50 degrees. Is that barely any difference, or a pretty decent jump? What about 55? way too much? I think there's really only one way to find out, which is essentially what Jon@TRE said as well. To err on the safer side then, I think I'll be going with 50 degree accel, 3 degree decel

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Plus, if you decide to make a change, it's not too hard to drop, setup, and put back in. I think the last time I did it came out to about two hours. So, definitely not the end of the world.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

true - more info as i compile data here:

http://www.cuscousainc.com/downloads..._lsd_guide.pdf

https://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/L.S.D._mitsubishi.pdf

I believe as far as I can tell, we are a size "A" according to Cusco for our rear diff. The 1.5-way for a size A is already 55/20 cam angles, meaning I should go with a 55 on the accel side to even match the Cusco's performance here.

Bee-Raddd

You seem very undersprung Kaj if your 9k front 10k rear. have u tried cranking it right up to like 14kf 16kr? might solve your inside tire lifting at least. Ive just gone 16kf 20kr on mine. i think dallas runs even more

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I was on basically 16k/26k but I think its just too much. Car never really felt like it took a set and I didnt like it much. I'm stepping back down to 14k/20-22k but adding front bar back in. Going to try doing more than just softest setting on stock bar. Wondering what 14k and 115% setting on bar does if I keep cranking rear rates (spring and bar) to keep the rotation I want.

Bee-Raddd

Yup im also going to play with stiffening front bar on mine (have aftermarket large front bar already) So will see what happens there and we can combine our thoughts on that. I went from 16kf 14kr down to 12kf 14kr last season for final round and it was hopeless even with a full stiff bar. So def think 14kf absolute minimum and id say 14kr also absolute minimum. tempted to say 16k on rear minimum.