Results in, whatcha think.

 

That oil should have viscosity of 18 at 100*C. That def isn't good. How much time was on the oil? Did you thoroughly warm it up before taking this sample?

 

Wasn't about to start it considering the threat of bearing material. 1 race weekend of course. Ignore the viscosity for the moment. Is the engine healthy.

 

None of the metals are marked as abnormal. I'd say it's fine.

How much time on track does it get per day? Seeing this, you may want to start changing the oil Saturday night before Sunday. The fuel dilution may just be the nature of the beast.

 

The usual hour, maybe. That is likely the severe blow by that I get. Could be rings but I'll know more when I comp test. Also since moving to a vented catch can my oil has done this. I've been wondering if it was sucking air/moisture and dumping it down the pan from all the idling. Could be coincidence though. But likely since Curt builds em loose, and I'm wailing on it, it just adds up. On stock block my oil could be used for 2 weekends usually.

But no TriMetal's, so the bearing got hurt back in march, and I saved it from further damage it seems.

 

If you idle the engine a lot, especially one built to be a race motor, that could do it.

"Built loose" is subjective. Typical PTW and ring end gaps for an engine meant for <6-700whp don't cause much issue if the engine is being ran hard.

 

Speaking of rebuilding an engine.... How bad are these things to pull out from the top side? I did a leak down test a little while ago and my exhaust valves arent too happy. Figure if I have to pull the head, I might as well refresh the entire thing with a stroker kit.

 

I was able to do it, so it can't be that hard

I would recommend getting an extra set of hands to help though. I managed to do it solo but it would have been a lot smoother with help.

 

I've always pulled the engines out from the top, assuming the trans is already DCed,

 

I didn't have any trouble pulling and reinstalling it with the trans attached. It could be that it's easier to do detached though.

 

I would rather pull it with the trans attached. Pulling the trans by itself is no fun. Figured I could just flop the t-case to the side and go from there. But good to know it can come out the top. Will definitely have an extra set of hands helping out for the actual removal process. My stroker kit should be to me in 4-6 weeks so I at least have some time to get started on everything else.

 

Whatcha goin with?

 

Well I got Manley to sponsor me so it will be all Manley stuff. 94mm billet crank, 150mm h-beams with 625 bolts and their off the shelf pistons with HD wrist pins. I am not planning on making more than 550whp so I didnt need anything too crazy.

 

Nice. If you have time to take photos, I'd enjoy following the process.

 

My only summer project (so far) was acquiring this Russian gas mask, and putting a 40mm thread adapter on it to run the NATO/IDF filter canister. The Russian canisters have asbestos in them, didn't want to breath that.

But now I have a real mask to wear to the store