Almost all of the holes in the block are blind, so length matters. The shorter ones on the starter side are the ones that go into the rear main housing. And the bolt under the crank pulley isn't blind, but it needs to be short or it will rub the timing belt. 18mm should be good all the bolts except those two spots where you'll probably want 14mm(?). But I don't think they make bolts that exact length so you're just gonna be trimming bolts down..

 

M6x1.00 right?

What if we did 16mm and 12mm.

 

Yeah, M6x1.0.

I'm not there, So I can't say for sure.

According to STM site, they're all 10mm long except for the 2 8mm ones, and I'm 99.99% sure the two shorter ones are for the oil pump/front case. So, the stock sheet metal pan is probably 1mm thick flange. Figure that vs new flange and go from there. Since they're 6mm bolts, you only need 6mm thread engagement.

https://stmtuned.com/collections/mit...vo-4-5-6-7-8-9

 

Dont you have some calipers to stick in the hole and measure? :P

 

That'd require the block, upside down, said pan, and said caliper lol. Isn't that what you're here for haha.

 

In typical fashion Sean has all the answers. The only two short ones are in the middle of the front case and its very obvious. I believe most are indeed blind but recall a few weren't so just make sure no threads are sticking up in there ready to shred your tbelt.

Matt-isn't your motor out of the car now? If so get her on an engine stand and do it up, dont fight gravity! And don't even need to get that crazy with a caliper if you don't have one, stick a nail down there and measure off of that. But on that note if you dont own at least one caliper buy one and you'd be amazed how often you end up using it for fab work and misc projects.

 

Negative, I have ACI do most of my heavy lifting because I simply don't have the time with 3 business's. The block was shipped to them to save 100 bucks. I naturally obsess over the detail and try to drop it off so it's a 2 week turnaround with everything they need, then pick it up for me to handle the rest. She's stuffed to the top with parts atm lol. Packing her up this evening for tomorrow drop off. I've been needing a space with a lift for years now lol.

I went ahead and ordered batches of bolts from 10-20mm so I should have many spares haha.

 

I hear ya in regards to the lack of time these days. Never imagined my car being apart for 9 months now but maybe just maybe is there an end in sight. Still have those AST's tucked away in a box too lol! Maybe it comes with the territory but seems one cannot just do one evo motor build. And on that note, if you have an evo or project cars you need 2 lifts at a minimum, one for projects and one for routine maintenance.

 

Plus one or two 4 post lol.

 

Ideas on how to plug the dipstick hole?

 

Drill tap and plug it. Check the ID but guessing something like a 1/4"NPT would work but maybe need 3/8 NPT. Whatever is closer. Could always just leave the dipstick in there but that's kinda lame.

 

I'd have your machine shop make a slight press fit steel plug on the lathe, JB weld it in there...

 

Does anyone have the inner barrel diameter measurements for the 18x10.5" Enkei PF01s?

Alternatively, can someone with the Alcon 6-piston BBK and 18x10.5" PF01s measure the radial clearance from the outmost part of the brake caliper to the inner barrel of the PF01?

 

If it's anything like the AP's it's about 3-4mm if that. The issue is that layer of the barrel about 1.5 inches from the spokes sits inboard a lot more then the rest of the barrel. Weights don't fit in the gap.

 

I could use measurements from the AP caliper outermost part to the inner barrel.

I'm trying to estimate clearance for a different brake setup. 3-4mm from the APs doesn't sound like much clearance.