Aaron has a pretty good tune for the 3.5EB. Picks up power and MPG.

 

Was your old one a 5star tune? Seems they are pretty conservative in gains

 

FWIW - according to google searching, your jack should be rated for about 75% of the car's weight

 

Yes it was.
It was more than power gains though. Truck drives a lot better, fuel trims are a lot closer, and it gets better mpg

 

Ive heard mixed results from 5*, mostly about it being very conservative which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

 

This tune is .4 richer AFR (11.8 vs 12.2), 1-2* more timing throughout, and better mivec settings. And the MAF scaling is correct. I wouldn't call it any less safe.

 

Just wondering whether an Accusump might be a good supplement to the Racefab pan? A necro bump reminded me of this option: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11918724

 

It won't hurt but it will make oil changes more annoying and it won't save your oil pump from eating itself when you starve the pickup.

 

This is a very good point...

 

do our cars toe out Under heavy braking by chance?

 

If you have stock uprights. ball joints, and tie rods, and you have added caster then you will toe-in on compression. Or are you talking about rear?

 

stock uprights and ball joints with whiteline tie rod ends and bushings.

might just have a bad case of toe out in the front then. super darty in the rain, fairly unstable under hard braking, and i destroyed the inside fronts of my tires at road america. never wore out the inside of my tires first before

 

Dallas,
With your uprights, does the "equation" change, i.e. with added caster, with WL extended ball joints, and with your tie-rod ends to fit to uprights: does the car toe-in under compression or ?
With added caster of course.

What are the driving factors in causing toe-in or Toe-out?

In a way, getting some toe-in in compression, helps to keep contact patch flatter under braking. But it also does not help turn-in while trail braking.

 

WL Tie rod is also 5mm longer than stock, exacerbating the effect of adding caster. Definitely want to keep the OEM tie-rod. You are causing toe-in on braking which will also cause dartiness in a different way. And can also be your source of killing the inside of the tire with high camber. Doesnt matter if in or out, toe will still scrub the highest loaded edge.

The bumpsteer adjustment range is based on the correction factor and an assumed range of stock to +7.5deg caster, and stock to +10mm of ball joint (WL is +5mm, mine are 0, +5, and +10). With the right combo, you can get much more caster just need to also run longer ball joint. At +10 ball joint, you could can technically correct for over 10deg of caster. I run 9...

Because the slider axis on our mac strut is pretty much vertical we get almost no camber gain. So the easy mode way to getting as close to zero is to just set the control arm and toe arm parallel. Theyre about the same length to the pivot so it works great. I dont even bother measuring bumpsteer manually anymore when I make changes (yeah, probably lazy of me) and just use a digital level, often my phone) to set them parallel.

For high caster, if you're worried about jacking effect my car measures a 0.4deg tilt going to full steering lock. It accounts for some roll angle, but its not as dramatic as people would make it out to be and certainly is overcome by the camber gain in steering.

 

I'm going to assume you don't feel any difference with +20tq on a 5,500lb vehicle.