Put a new omni 4 bar MAP in it if it's on speed density.

 

Kyoo align all the timing marks top and bottom make sure it all lines up. Follow the manual sequence as just checking the cams isnt enough.

also check you can put a pin through the hydraulic tensioner hole all the way that will tell you if the tension is off

 

yea i mean the shop was at the event, in addition to a lot of evo builders/owners, they looked at everything you can look at without taking it apart, so that's what is next.

 

yep pop the outer timing covers off and the accessory belt + water pump pulley and you can have a good look at all the cambelt timing, need to follow the manual carefully esp around the crank timing marks and the rotating the engine over 3 times and checking the tensioner is still in the right position etc.

it can be 1 tooth out and still run just not well

 

Not sure that you should necessarily be able to have the pin go through freely once the engine has been run some. I think that might only work on the initial install. At a minimum the fit may be very tight after the engine has been run.

 

everything with the belts, timing was fine. we pulled it and looked, and all the timing was on. we stuck a thing into the spark plug #1 hole and watched it go up and down as we rotated the crank.

something internal may have happened, though i'm not sure what. yes, racefab + kiggly is not infallible, but still surprised given the levels of this car. i almost think an oil pump failure would be more likely than oil starve from lack of oil in the pan. hopefully asm will tear down the engine this week and we can figure out what the deal was. i only hope there's not **** everywhere necessitating various cleaning and new parts.

 

Sorry. You aren't having the best luck lately with your tow vehicle and now this. What power level was the car at when this happened? And what fuel?

 

Wrist pin failures don't occur from oil starvation. That's a material fatigue failure or an overload issue. If a wrist pin is moving around 1 of 2 things happened:

1a. Applies to stock bottom end, the press fit was lost on the pin and it's slapping back and forth laterally against the cylinder wall.
1b. Applies to built bottom end, a circlip wasn't fully seated and the pin is moving laterally back and forth against the cylinder wall.

2. The pin has wallowed out the small end of the rod.

1a is something I've never heard of happening and 1b means whoever built the engine shouldn't be building engines or the piston manufacturer had a faulty product. In the case of no. 2 you would be able to hear the noise rolling the engine over by hand when you get to TDC and BDC.

You said you just picked it up from a shop changing cams, I'd be suspect of something in the valvetrain, like if they didn't bleed the lifters properly when doing the cams. Or a rocker wasn't completely seated. Cam caps being insufficiently torqued can make all sorts of wonky sounds. Was the valve cover ever pulled to inspect?

 

Pull the valve cover before pulling the engine. Thats not bottom end noise.

 

yeah def.

~400whp. e85. redline mix of 30wt and 40wt racing oil. just had s2 cams, gsc springs & retainers, and topline lifters put in, and retuned. no other real work in the motor, besides headstuds. basic bolt ons, no/only factory aero, 200tw 255/35-18 rt660s. ohlins coilovers, 8/12k with stock fsb and whiteline rsb, and a variety of minor bushings. racefab, kiggly, and crank scraper as mentioned. pretty basic build, i am genuinely surprised something happened.

we pulled the valve cover on site, and everything was looked over. it's andy smedegard, i imagine he did everything properly.

 

****ing w0t m8

 

i add a qt of 10w40 and 6 qts of 10w30. i used to run just 10w30, started adding their racing 40wt about a year ago to run slightly thicker oil.

 

also - the reason we pulled it in to begin with was because the car pulled boost and timing, power was cut while tomo was out driving it. no knock flashes, but not sure why it would do that otherwise.

 

If it's a wrist pin issue it can be checked without pulling the engine. As simple as putting a stick down the spark plug hole and seeing if the piston can be pushed down when it's on the downstroke. If the small end of the rod is wallowed out you'll be able to feel the play when you push down. If it's moving laterally and knocking against the wall you'll see if with a borescope and it'll also usually show up on a leak down test.

 

That's silly. Just run 10w40 or or a 10-15-20w50 to keep the oil pump happy.