Sup w/them 2024 Fall Projects?
#3226
#3227
I think there's some debate on what is the best oil to run on a stock engine. Built engine its 20-50w all day for track but stock engines are generally a lot tighter for clearance. FWIW I spun #4 rod bearing with 20-50w Brad Penn, similar build with bit more tire (275width BFG rivals), custom ACD flash, and no racefab pan / kiggly HLA. There is no magic bullet other than dry sump. Maybe the only thing that might have helped is oil pressure based safety cuts in the ECU. I did note my oil temps was higher with the Brad Penn compared to 10w40.
#3228
I think there's some debate on what is the best oil to run on a stock engine. Built engine its 20-50w all day for track but stock engines are generally a lot tighter for clearance. FWIW I spun #4 rod bearing with 20-50w Brad Penn, similar build with bit more tire (275width BFG rivals), custom ACD flash, and no racefab pan / kiggly HLA. There is no magic bullet other than dry sump. Maybe the only thing that might have helped is oil pressure based safety cuts in the ECU. I did note my oil temps was higher with the Brad Penn compared to 10w40.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...ml#post9523588
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LetsGetThisDone (Jun 8, 2021)
#3230
anyway yeah so i think for now it's just sitting at the shop. i'd love for someone else to take a look at maybe the cams and stuff before we just tear it down but logistically it's just too challenging, especially since he's 7 hours from me.
not sure when he'll get to it, I'm basically just sitting around waiting for a call
not sure when he'll get to it, I'm basically just sitting around waiting for a call
#3233
yep you want to be running much thicker oil than that at the track. 10w50 or something. Remember everything gets alot hotter at the track than on the street. also want to be swapping oil every time you go out to the track to be safe too.
I assume you drained the oil and looked for material etc at the time?
I assume you drained the oil and looked for material etc at the time?
#3235
It would have been a LOT easier to just get the RS Motors Fobia Fab kit, but a EWG dump setup would not fly with inspection and noise concerns (including track) where I live.
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LetsGetThisDone (Jun 10, 2021)
#3236
I'm world's slowest installer, but I'm working on getting my G25-660 installed. Since I got a custom manifold and fully recirculated setup, I need to make all the lines and figure out how to route everything. I'm past the stare and ponder stage, past the making lists of what I need to buy, and actually have most of the fittings and line now, and am in the stage of realizing what does and doesn't fit correctly around my existing parts (e.g., intake pipe, radiator fan, DP to exhaust, etc.). So many hidden costs, but not unexpected.
It would have been a LOT easier to just get the RS Motors Fobia Fab kit, but a EWG dump setup would not fly with inspection and noise concerns (including track) where I live.
It would have been a LOT easier to just get the RS Motors Fobia Fab kit, but a EWG dump setup would not fly with inspection and noise concerns (including track) where I live.
honestly, I think I would get so distracted trying to make the car make all the noises, I would end up driving like crap. I'm easily distract.......
#3237
I'm world's slowest installer, but I'm working on getting my G25-660 installed. Since I got a custom manifold and fully recirculated setup, I need to make all the lines and figure out how to route everything. I'm past the stare and ponder stage, past the making lists of what I need to buy, and actually have most of the fittings and line now, and am in the stage of realizing what does and doesn't fit correctly around my existing parts (e.g., intake pipe, radiator fan, DP to exhaust, etc.). So many hidden costs, but not unexpected.
It would have been a LOT easier to just get the RS Motors Fobia Fab kit, but a EWG dump setup would not fly with inspection and noise concerns (including track) where I live.
It would have been a LOT easier to just get the RS Motors Fobia Fab kit, but a EWG dump setup would not fly with inspection and noise concerns (including track) where I live.
I'm most concerned where exactly the turbo is "placed" at in regards to top bottom left right. Is it too far right which makes you get a new sharper bend intake, is it too far left and it'd run into my dry sump lines, etc.
The other thing ETS and several others mentioned is that the G's flow so much air that a single 44mm wg wasn't enough to dump the excess so thats why they went with twin 38's due to boost creep.
#3238
Details, details, pics, more pics oh and yes lots more details lol. So you went with one of the IWG housings? Whos manifold?
I'm most concerned where exactly the turbo is "placed" at in regards to top bottom left right. Is it too far right which makes you get a new sharper bend intake, is it too far left and it'd run into my dry sump lines, etc.
The other thing ETS and several others mentioned is that the G's flow so much air that a single 44mm wg wasn't enough to dump the excess so thats why they went with twin 38's due to boost creep.
I'm most concerned where exactly the turbo is "placed" at in regards to top bottom left right. Is it too far right which makes you get a new sharper bend intake, is it too far left and it'd run into my dry sump lines, etc.
The other thing ETS and several others mentioned is that the G's flow so much air that a single 44mm wg wasn't enough to dump the excess so thats why they went with twin 38's due to boost creep.
#3239
Details, details, pics, more pics oh and yes lots more details lol. So you went with one of the IWG housings? Whos manifold?
I'm most concerned where exactly the turbo is "placed" at in regards to top bottom left right. Is it too far right which makes you get a new sharper bend intake, is it too far left and it'd run into my dry sump lines, etc.
The other thing ETS and several others mentioned is that the G's flow so much air that a single 44mm wg wasn't enough to dump the excess so thats why they went with twin 38's due to boost creep.
I'm most concerned where exactly the turbo is "placed" at in regards to top bottom left right. Is it too far right which makes you get a new sharper bend intake, is it too far left and it'd run into my dry sump lines, etc.
The other thing ETS and several others mentioned is that the G's flow so much air that a single 44mm wg wasn't enough to dump the excess so thats why they went with twin 38's due to boost creep.
Re drysump clearance, this does barely clear the stock A/C compressor.
#3240
Got pics of your O2 and downpipe? Curious where the o2 routes and how close it gets to the AC/sump area. I've seen pics of morr's single 44 but if you can lay it out on a table that'd help.