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I kept looking at that for a minute and finally remembered "oh ha this dude's right hand drive" lol. We have a number of makers over here in the states. I was too thinking two on the front cage and just one in the middle rear to save weight. How far they raise at what psi/bar? Did you do the whole lance back fender connection or?
they lift at like 400psi seems to lift fine with just the 3 and its super stable, i was worried it might rock in the back if u put weight on a rear corner but its solid.
not sure what you mean by the whole lance back fender connection?
any ideas why this would have happened? the browning i get, the difference between one side and the other not as much. decent cooling from the brake air guide but not reaching all the way out?
looks like as you said one side getting hotter than the other.
What is the brake air guide setup you mentioned? where does it blow air? most efficient way is to blow air into center of the disc so the air flow has to travel up the vains of the disc. if its blowing straight on the caliper than thats your problem.
Id say with heat differences like this the brake disc must be coning heaps too with heaps of heat on the outside and not alot on the inside.
it's the oem one found on MR evos, no other brake air guide.
im going to install the binary ducting after i get these rebuilt, but i think that shoots air to the back also.
The binary kit is really good for stock evo setup. Its pretty much the same idea as what i use currently but just compressed down to fit the factory brakes.
In that case its a bit odd that one side has gone like that and the other hasnt. is the braking pressure okay? it almost makes it seem like the fluid on 1 side has boiled but not the other side or you have a blockage between the caliper sides.
For reference this is what we use for ducting. The oval hole in the gold block between the caliper and the hub is where the brake duct attaches into. This forces air up through the middle of the disc. If you can imagine the disc has an air gap on the inside where it mounts to the bell which is where you aim to force air.
You can still do this with stock discs. a big upgrade would be to put 2 piece stock size discs on the front e.g a girodisc or similar which will give more of an air gap to force air up in there.
The binary kit is really good for stock evo setup. Its pretty much the same idea as what i use currently but just compressed down to fit the factory brakes.
In that case its a bit odd that one side has gone like that and the other hasnt. is the braking pressure okay? it almost makes it seem like the fluid on 1 side has boiled but not the other side or you have a blockage between the caliper sides.
pressures, braking all seemed normal, but could def check the crossover tube.
Are both passenger and driver side brakes turning brown on the outside?
If only one caliper is turning brown, I'd look for a stuck seal or other issue causing the pads to drag. If both calipers are going brown similarly, I'd assume it's because the air guides are cooling the inside more than the outside.
That's good evidence that the Mitsu air guides are doing something useful. My Brembos turned brown and then black on both halves at about the same rate. Looks like the air guides are sending some decent airflow into the wheel cavity.
Are both passenger and driver side brakes turning brown on the outside?
If only one caliper is turning brown, I'd look for a stuck seal or other issue causing the pads to drag. If both calipers are going brown similarly, I'd assume it's because the air guides are cooling the inside more than the outside.
That's good evidence that the Mitsu air guides are doing something useful. My Brembos turned brown and then black on both halves at about the same rate. Looks like the air guides are sending some decent airflow into the wheel cavity.
yea actually the inner on the passenger side was still reddish - not as much as the driver's side but still a difference between the two. that was my thought was well. hoping the air guides do the rest and keep the brakes nice and happy. from the rate of browning, i dont think i need much more, i think the 2" will do just fine.
there was some tapering of the pads, hadn't actually seen it before on this car. more so on the outside pads than the inside.
if there is tapering, does that mean the pedal will feel off or that i shouldn't use the pads anymore? pic below.
Morrison G25-660 update: Running 0.8 bar springs in my dual 44mm wastegates (single scroll), with an uncorked exhaust, it hits about 18 psi at 3750 rpm (relatively untuned on a 2.0) and creeps to 21 psi at 7000 rpm, which is as high as I’ve taken it so far). Very glad I got a 2-gate setup and that I didn’t go with 38s. I’m also glad that the 0,8 bar springs seem pretty good for a guesstimate. I can’t change wastegate springs without pulling off the manifold, so I was dreading having to do all that work just to dial in the springs. Looks like I don’t have to. Also, although the IC pipes are hot to the touch when I open the hood, the AITs are still at ambient according to the logs. Still, I plan to do something about shielding before hitting the track with this setup. For now, I’m happy just to be able to drive it again.
I wonder if it wouldn’t creep if I were not recirculating the WG flow? Doesn’t matter because I definitely wouldn’t want that noise factor.
The air moves through the piping fast enough to not really pick up any heat, as well as there being a boundary layer whenever a fluid flows through a pipe.
Thats more creep than the G30-770 with twin 38's that I did. Interesting. Possibly just due to the small turbine receiving a lot of energy.
Sunday morning at Packwood Pro Solo I fired up the car and it sounded like a had an air leak on the front passenger side... Like, if an air compressor had a leaking line. Consistent woosh sound. Figured a bearing was dying on the serp side cause the timing belt parts are only a couple years and few thousand miles old.
Pulled the belt this afternoon and fired it up, sound gone. Looks like culprit is original tensioner pulley bearing.
Looked up the cost for a full replacement, $170? Nope! Looks like a standard bearing... closer look its a 6203 series bearing you can get from McMaster for $17 (plus shipping).
Sunday morning at Packwood Pro Solo I fired up the car and it sounded like a had an air leak on the front passenger side... Like, if an air compressor had a leaking line. Consistent woosh sound. Figured a bearing was dying on the serp side cause the timing belt parts are only a couple years and few thousand miles old.
Pulled the belt this afternoon and fired it up, sound gone. Looks like culprit is original tensioner pulley bearing.
Looked up the cost for a full replacement, $170? Nope! Looks like a standard bearing... closer look its a 6203 series bearing you can get from McMaster for $17 (plus shipping).
Jul 11, 2021 | 03:06 AM
