looking at the ICP now, it seems ok.. wideband also seems ok

 

one of the coil on plugs was not screwed down (old spoolinup cop) but was secure. would that be enough to do it? I'm running to the store to get a new screw

 

Not sure. I would pull the plugs and make sure you don’t have an issue with any of them if that doesn’t fix it.

 

If one of the plugs weren't firing properly, it should look different than the others.

 

plugs looked ok. swapped anyway, and tightned cop. still bucking/jerking. gonna take it to the shop. out of nowhere...

 

I've had small vac leaks buck about and the ECU does it's best to compensate which shows close to 14.7 +/- .3. Just "looking" at the IC pipes doesn't do anything. I typically melt/wear out some of the vac caps on the intake manifold every 3-4 months.

 

Lots of things happened this weekend, but one super weird one.... Came back from last run and clutch pedal was on the floor. WTF?

Popped it back up after a quick check under the hood and it was all good.

Visual Inspection: There is definitely clutch/brake fluid out of the slave dropped down on the splitter

Guess: Either slave is leaking or I over extended it.

I have a lot of clutch travel adjusted in cause the stupid exedy is warped.

 

It would also be good to check the coil packs. A weak/dead coil pack would make the engine run like crap.

 

Now that you mention it, the time I tried COP, I had similar problems. It's why I run OEM now (plus I don't run enough boost to justify). Do you have stock coils/wires to try?

 

Luckily that's an easy fix. The last time my clutch pedal stayed on the floor it was because my crankshaft spat out my thrust bearings.

 

i dont have the stock ones, but these are quite old. car's at RS now, so just waiting to hear.

 

So question for the motorsport folks here. Im pushing coolant, enough that I have to bleed the coolant system after each event. Basically let it cool enough to open radiator, put funnel on rad, fill with water, then warm up to get all the bubbles to push through. After an event Im putting about 30-40oz back into the system. I let the funnel sit on overnight and dump the overflow so it has enough room to catch all thats blown out.

I need to get the engine to last the rest of the season before I can do a full teardown and surface everything.

Thoughts on what I could do,

• Swap in APR 625+ and torque to 100-105
• Pull some timing

Not sure if this would help or not though. Probably depends on what damage the gasket has seen.
Next option but couldn't get done before next event,

• Pull Head and swap gasket
• Swap ARP 625+
• Sendit

Any thoughts or experience just clamping the gasket harder to hold over after its been pushing?

 

Pull head, new gasket, pull timing.

 

Eh, I don't think that'd "magically" fill a gap large enough to loose 40oz in such a short time. If there was gasket there in said gap I have my doubts it's still there with the abuse it see's. Just put some stop leak in it you'll be fiiiinnneeee

If you're not seeing it on the ground/splitter, and it's not enough to change the exhaust smell/color, could be in the turbo? Whats the logs say on temp?

 

Swapping the gasket is definitely the ideal direction. I just have less 10 days to do it which is fine but no chance to recover if something goes wrong like a seized turbo bolt or something.

Another aspect though, if its going to have an issue we'd probably rather know now since we can just take the Model3 instead.

Looks like its time to start stripping parts off the head.