Sup w/them 2024 Fall Projects?
#3946
Well good thing I have a motec :P. But thanks for the feedback on your experience. My main use is to get throttle blip, a cheap replacement for OEM IAC (which cost more than the replacement TB), and to play with another thing.
Also, sometimes I do things just cause I want to do things.
Also, sometimes I do things just cause I want to do things.
If you piggyback wired in the wheelspeed sensors from the ACD ecu you could also play with traction control.
#3947
with a motec you do not need the ACD ecu..
#3948
Well, as of current programming the Motec isn't quite there yet. Its way to basic of a control as far as I can tell in my map and not nearly good enough to replace OEM control. But once I get things wired up I'm hoping to work with John to get more useful maps for the control of ACD.
Got a few things holding me up right now, namely the house build and move but also machining is taking so much time.
Got a few things holding me up right now, namely the house build and move but also machining is taking so much time.
#3949
Well, as of current programming the Motec isn't quite there yet. Its way to basic of a control as far as I can tell in my map and not nearly good enough to replace OEM control. But once I get things wired up I'm hoping to work with John to get more useful maps for the control of ACD.
Got a few things holding me up right now, namely the house build and move but also machining is taking so much time.
Got a few things holding me up right now, namely the house build and move but also machining is taking so much time.
#3950
I know it works well in dirt but my concern is the lock up of center causing understeer as I have experience with some maps. But mid corner on track off throttle, I need the diff fully open unless yaw starts ramping up like too much lift rotation.
#3952
@bee-raddd @kyoo
Well here's my battery reloc. What do you think? Not much left on top of the trans. I removed every wiring ties and brackets, except the one nearest the starter. Relocated some grouding points Replaced all the split looms to get rid the twists. All OE wiring is intact, Added a cutoff switch and a 40A DC socket. Extra battery for cold morning starts
Well here's my battery reloc. What do you think? Not much left on top of the trans. I removed every wiring ties and brackets, except the one nearest the starter. Relocated some grouding points Replaced all the split looms to get rid the twists. All OE wiring is intact, Added a cutoff switch and a 40A DC socket. Extra battery for cold morning starts
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kikiturbo (Dec 28, 2021)
#3956
Thanks gents. The harness/switch/fuse is supported by the thick wire bolted to the trans. high enough to clear the shifter cables and rigid enough to turn the switch
#3957
The only things id consider doing now would be to look into relocating the switch etc on a nice bracket mounted to the firewall or something like that for some extra tidyness and security, And a kick plate that goes over the battery to tidy the look up so it looks factory and stops any passenger in the back accidentally kicking it or anything silly.
#3958
The only things id consider doing now would be to look into relocating the switch etc on a nice bracket mounted to the firewall or something like that for some extra tidyness and security, And a kick plate that goes over the battery to tidy the look up so it looks factory and stops any passenger in the back accidentally kicking it or anything silly.
#3959
Alright folks, need a check on reason here.
Been running the CNC and cant work on Evo or Tesla till thursday (need running cars for fam reasons) so looked back at this cam gear offset. Since mivec cant be adjustable with the threads in the gear itself, here's what I'm thinking and just want a sanity check on spacing.
The orange is stock positions. I think this is right, but each step here is 1/4 tooth offset plus 1 tooth. So if I need 1/2 tooth for a 4G64, I would bolt in the "blue" hole and line up the "blue" mark. They wouldn't actually be colored, just match hole number with tick number. To get a partial tooth offset, here I have 1.25 tooth increment (7.5*1.25 deg).
In all honesty, this isnt necessary at all. On my 2.4 I set the tick retarded 1/2 degree and adjusted the scaling in ECUFlash. But it did take getting a couple tables right to work and reduced peak. But I wanted to be able to achieve 0. Now I have the ER Oil pump gear also and gained back 2deg from the lost 3.75. But with this I could have been near OEM position with both conditions and no ECU adjustments (of which now Ive had to walk a few people through and usually have to relearn since I forget things in my elderly age )
So, is this offset correct or do you think something is wrong? Going to keep thinking about it here also.
Been running the CNC and cant work on Evo or Tesla till thursday (need running cars for fam reasons) so looked back at this cam gear offset. Since mivec cant be adjustable with the threads in the gear itself, here's what I'm thinking and just want a sanity check on spacing.
The orange is stock positions. I think this is right, but each step here is 1/4 tooth offset plus 1 tooth. So if I need 1/2 tooth for a 4G64, I would bolt in the "blue" hole and line up the "blue" mark. They wouldn't actually be colored, just match hole number with tick number. To get a partial tooth offset, here I have 1.25 tooth increment (7.5*1.25 deg).
In all honesty, this isnt necessary at all. On my 2.4 I set the tick retarded 1/2 degree and adjusted the scaling in ECUFlash. But it did take getting a couple tables right to work and reduced peak. But I wanted to be able to achieve 0. Now I have the ER Oil pump gear also and gained back 2deg from the lost 3.75. But with this I could have been near OEM position with both conditions and no ECU adjustments (of which now Ive had to walk a few people through and usually have to relearn since I forget things in my elderly age )
So, is this offset correct or do you think something is wrong? Going to keep thinking about it here also.
#3960
I have the cam caps from "that guy" that moved my cam sensor inboard due to the tubular manifold but they also have a degree adjustment slot in them - is that achieving the same thing? Not to mention looking better, o rings, no more RTV, etc. I think Austin has beta units already. If not whats the advantage of keeping the OEM cap and doing it on the gear instead?