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shop that did the work found it. it was a leak at the oil pan return line, and they resealed the pan as well so suspected leak there also i guess.
haven't done anything with the coolant leak yet, but as far as i can tell it only leaks after a drive, not something i would see from starting up the car. i think it is exacerbated by pressure and i dont think there's much pressure when the car is idling. i did order a lower pressure cap, but i'm not going to put it on until the source of the issue is found. i'm just going to have an evo specific shop take a look at it in feb or mar, i'm not comfortable with it enough myself. i've seen the dribble on the trans but i can't see anything past that. im hoping it's thermostat housing or gasket, but again i can't see it
Interesting sounds like it may be coming from somewhere around the thermostat then and it doesnt leak till that actuates?
another issue i've got - had a shop try to repair the licp i damaged a couple of years ago - they did their best to round it out, but couldnt get their roller all the way around it because of how the pipe comes back in the u shape. think this should hold, but wanted to get an opinion. if it's good, i'll probably swap it with the mishimoto i've got on the car now. the bead still protrudes all the way around.
Ive used mine much worse than that after an off track excursion (scca auto x at a go kart track) and punted a 2000w generator running a sump from a standing water location to keep it from running across the track. Run on sentence aside I rounded it out by rolling a wood dowel around in circles for a while. Never got it quite as round as new but never leaked either. Licp is a bit of a consumable ..
I put a flat spot on my LICP dragging it on pavement for 3/4 of a lap around Gingerman, still works just fine.
As for tie rod ends/ball joints. Since all my suspension is aluminum I try to avoid hitting things to break tapers. I've got one of these separators that's cheap, and works great for breaking tapers without damaging aluminum (I also cover the legs on the separator in tape).
My very first time I did that I used a large hammer and bent the * out of the rear trailing arm threads lol. Recutting the threads worked on the first attempt. I was in a rush lol.
You can remove all 5 bolts with the axle in place then pull the bearing assembly out. Can use a slide hammer or thread in the bolts a few turns and tap them (need a punch to reach them) and work it out. Some seem to come out easy and some fight you.
err he should have assembled the hub-bearing first before putting it back in
some antiseize/grease on the knuckle would help him with disassembly next time
You can remove all 5 bolts with the axle in place then pull the bearing assembly out. Can use a slide hammer or thread in the bolts a few turns and tap them (need a punch to reach them) and work it out. Some seem to come out easy and some fight you.
if i pull the entire assembly out i can just take it to a shop to press out the old wheel bearing and presss in the new one, correct?
Jan 23, 2022 | 09:40 AM
