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Sup w/them 2024 Fall Projects?

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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 12:15 PM
  #4156  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
This can make the car have extra body roll on turn in and can make it feel floaty, something not generally desired.
Not to mention the tremendous understeer you will get when your rear roll stiffness gets cut nearly in half.
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 01:18 PM
  #4157  
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duplicate

Last edited by ViciousLSD; Jan 29, 2022 at 10:33 PM.
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 01:21 PM
  #4158  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
is it a problem if i don't have washers on my front axles behind the axle nut? not sure why i don't have them, they're dss axles


rears came out super fast with the slide hammer
ya. use the old ones
you might need to protect that boot
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 02:05 PM
  #4159  
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moved on to the brakes. the ap racing brackets do not fit the 1.25s either. the mounting bracket makes contact with the shape of the up right. grinding down the bracket. thank god someone is helping me

Old Jan 29, 2022 | 02:07 PM
  #4160  
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Its always a struggle getting different non-OEM parts to play well together. Inevitably a little grind here or there ends up being necessary.
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 02:13 PM
  #4161  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Its always a struggle getting different non-OEM parts to play well together. Inevitably a little grind here or there ends up being necessary.
all good, just noting.



Old Jan 29, 2022 | 04:19 PM
  #4162  
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called it a night so tomorrow will be day 3. the fronts are fully in, rears out but new stuff not in & assembled yet, and brakes need to be done. the length of the toe bit for the steering link is much longer so we'll use toe plates to align the car after that.

so, for this kit i am removing both the heat shield and the binary eng brake ducting that were both formerly on the car. should i be concerned at all about the heat? I can wrap the lower control arm bushing in some heat protective tape. i still have the MR brake air guides on the car.

Last edited by kyoo; Jan 29, 2022 at 08:29 PM.
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 08:39 PM
  #4163  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
you might need to protect that boot
I have a template for that. And the ABS sensor.
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 10:45 PM
  #4164  
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Originally Posted by kaj
I have a template for that. And the ABS sensor.
I just surrounded the boots with sheet metal. it moves with the knuckle
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 11:09 PM
  #4165  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
How much weight you figure?
weight for the paddleshift components? Probably around 10kg give or take. But then you can ditch the lever and assembly so that would save up to 5kg.

you can also run it off a paintball gun tank instead if you were doing short ish races and then your looking at being maybe 3 - 5kg worth of components
Old Jan 29, 2022 | 11:16 PM
  #4166  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
moved on to the brakes. the ap racing brackets do not fit the 1.25s either. the mounting bracket makes contact with the shape of the up right. grinding down the bracket. thank god someone is helping me
my brackets also hit right there. Dallas is your hub beefier maybe than the factory ones? Either way it wasnt an issue just a bit of a tickle up with the dremel sorted it
Old Jan 30, 2022 | 07:22 AM
  #4167  
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If you have booted balljoints like factory or Whiteline you will want a shield for them or you will risk melting the boot. I've not had issues with melting ABS sensors but adding a wire sleeve shield wouldn't hurt.
Old Jan 30, 2022 | 08:25 AM
  #4168  
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yep we handled the bracket now, we had a bigger grinder:



working on rears soon once we finish the brakes:


Old Jan 30, 2022 | 09:28 AM
  #4169  
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I figured as much.
Old Jan 30, 2022 | 09:35 AM
  #4170  
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getting the rear ball joints off but the bushing pretty much gets blown apart even with that tool i got from Amazon. is there a way to refill grease in those bushings?

also, any tips on how to find cheaper abs sensors...

Last edited by kyoo; Jan 30, 2022 at 10:24 AM.


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