Brad, what do you do for "oil surge control"?
How hard is to swap main bearings with motor in car?

And did you ever swap rod bearings too?
Curious

Thank you,

 

I haven't done it myself but have talked to people who have, seems just loosening the crank and spinning them out/in works.

 

pretty sure 'big end bearings' are the rod bearings, not main bearings.

 

yea sorry big end bearings = rod bearings. i havnt attempted mains in car. youd have to remove all the rod caps push the pistons up the bores and drop the crank girdle and crank. I know not long after i bought the car i spun a crank and a mechanic replaced the crank for me with the engine in the car so it is possible but ive never been game enough to try it. especially without a hoist.

Rod bearings are simple they take about an hour. Although i have no balance shafts which makes it easier as it gives you lots of room to flick the rod over to the side to pop the top bearing shell on and off.

Rod bearings i do once a season although its probably overkill they never have much wear on them. mains i would do when i pull the engine out for a freshen every 3 or so years.

 

oil surge control... not alot. went drysump and it solved 99% of my issues.

i used to have heaps of surge issues especially at one of our tracks. the one RSMike did his testing at. I tried accusump first which worked okay till it ran out of oil and tried to refill itself. or ran out of oil in the accumulator and you went from 60psi to 10psi instantly. It also pushed alot of oil into ur catch tanks because its all stuck in ur head and cant drain back.

I tried a baffled extended sump which was based off of a racefab one and improved from a local company called BNR fabrication. that worked okay but i still had to watch oil pressure gauge and lift towards the end of the corner to control oil pressure which was holding me back still.

Then i went to a full drysump and ive never have issues with oil pressure since. only some minor build up of oil around the rocker covers on that same track which i assume is from oil getting stuck up top and seeping out. the Kiggly should stop this. and this has only become an issue recently when we found more pace and begun going faster than we were.


I think if your still on DOT tires or relatively factory still then a good baffled sump like RSMikes is perfect and all youll need. maybe throw a kiggly in too for good measure. But if your moving into slicks and aero territory and you have a track with a good right hand sweeper drysump is in my opinion the only solution. and will always be better than a wet sump if you have the budget to extend a little further to a drysump kit. I love the guarantee that i can turn my car on and know ill have instant and constant oil pressure, i will post up a log if i get a chance but the oil pressure pretty much stays flat. no dips around corners or anything like that which you get with a wet sump setup as the engine is basically being force fed oil all the time. I did notice that the condition of my rod bearings when i replace them has improved alot since going drysump also. number 4 cylinder used to almost fall out of its shell and would have some light wear on the bearing but now it looks brand new still.

 

I think most people's fear is that there are no plug and play dry sump kits.
Every install we see is problem after problem after problem, requiring custom work and bespoke solutions.
Nobody expects it to bolt on like an air filter, but for those of us without access to a machine shop, installs seen like they could take months.
That's why I, personally, haven't thought about it.
I guess if I were having pressure issues and HAD to, that would be a different story. The struggle is with saving and engine, that's for sure.

 

I havnt seen any of these stories. I got the norris designs kit and it literally bolted on. I just had to make lines to my tank

It took me about 3 hours to have the rest of the kit installed. theres nicer kits out than the norris one now. I saw one that had the scavenge system built into the sump pan recently which was really nice. also makes cambelt timing way easier as you dont have to worry about timing the oil pump or anything haha.

https://www.autoverdi.com/pump-models scroll just past halfway down and they do a really nice evo drysump kit.

 

The only thing "bespoke" about most dry sump kits is mount the tanking and running lines. If people have "problem after problem" with their dry sump stuff, maybe they shouldn't be installing these things.

 

I'll be sure to tell 'em

​​​​​​​bad ***. Me likey.

 

Daily Engineering literally bolted on too. Line routing gets interesting but no issues. Also solved 99% of my blowby problems. There IS a reason z06, gt4, gt3, etc etc are all coming drysump from the factory - when the car is capable of X level of grip there really is no substitute. Now if we had GTR level space in our engine bays it'd be more conceivable because the tank can hang out up front. But I didn't do that, couldn't really, I put the tank right against the roll bar loop in the middle of the car pass side. Temp alone, to the point where I now have a pit tank heater cause it gets so much air on the alum tank on top of the front cooler that you could struggle on super low temp days to get above 140*. The main issue for not going rear mount is tank height. With stock turbo setup there isn't enough space to the right of the pump before hitting exhaust stuff to use the "air-rator" version of the pump, so the 2.5gal tank needs to be x height to separate air from oil and swirl down enough before getting sucked back up. I also had to move the tank catch can to the rear outside next to the spare well. Long line, but it works perfect, that was only 2.0 attempt so no - I did not see any super complex problems.

 

I also avoided mounting the tank in the engine bay or guard area because door to door you can have contact with other cars and puncture the tank. But if your lapping or time attacking this isnt a problem

 

Catch can question:

I bought this closed system catch can kit. Do I have to run stock pcv? Can I used stock pcv with Kracka crankcase valves?

 

I'm running Radium's single oil catch can kit on the pass side strut tower with the stock PCV. No issues and I dump out about half a can about every 3rd oil change.

 

IMO I think you should use the stock genuine check valve. configure your install in a way that vacuumed air only gets sucked in thru the
filter -> catch can -> VC exhaust side -> crankcase -> VC intake side -> catch can -> pcv

 

So install as normal with oem pcv valve
Think I'll buy a Kiggly HLA too. Hard to find a better mod for the money, plus some really good posts by Kiggly on the subject.


Do y'all think 60 miles round-trip too far for an E85 fill up? Out in Amish country I can get the juice for sub $4/gal. Beats the $5.30/gal for 93 here but I know mileage is sacrificed.

ID 1000cc injectors, BBK turbo. What do you think my mileage would be? or does it depend on the tune? Kind of want to make the switch for obvious reasons and make the most out of this build.