Yea there is a reasonable amount of work in it. the floor part itself is easy you just cut it from a sheet but its all the in between bits and mounting points etc which can take time. On the car theres a strip of MDF which is bolted to the floor and then the floor screws to this about 6 inches from the tunnel to hold it up. then on the outside the side skirts attach to the door sills and theres a front and rear outer mount bracket that picks up in the guards
Haha its out in the rain while i do my thing on the evo Priorities lol. Its off to the paint shop in a couple weeks so doesnt bother me being outside at the moment.

Im fitting all whiteline bushings to the rest of the rear suspension that i havnt upgraded yet. (Trailing arm and upper wishbone bushings) and i have spericals to go on the front a arms in the rear inner slot. once these are done i have upgraded all the suspension point bushings. I also bought the steering rack bump steer kit but not sure if im motivated enough to drop the subframe to install it

 

@Dallas J play with the antilag manifold yet? 😂

 

UUGGGGHHHH. Working multiple jobs plus moving and building our little farm is crushing every bit of time and energy I have. I did get the fittings and vacuum canister I need for it. I tried to get the motec installed a couple months ago but the window I had for it Lucas at ER was gone on vacation and I couldnt get it set up. So now that we're post July 1st its the season of "make no changes" for solo nats.

So the plan, first thing is getting the car running on Motec. Then install anti-lag, then some more secret projects we may see come around this winter once Ive gone full time SSB.

 

Cool, I understand the time thing.. I need 8 day weeks and 30hr days 😂
There might be a little more room to enlarge the transfer ports between I think I left them at 5/16?

Interested to see if you end up playing with different valves or make new piping etc. I had probably 3 or 4 revisions before I ran out of means to tell I was doing it any better. The motec will not be limited there! I used the maf signal to see if I was generating more air flow but I don't think that's the whole story.

 

man, I feel ya. We're way in to 'don't make any changes to the car before nats' and haven't even taken a single run in it since last years nats. what a mess.

 

Time and Money. Oh and time....to spend the money....to get time....to use the money.....to run out of money.....and time....rinse. LoL.

 

deleted

 

Ive been having a bit of issue reaching boost getting worse and worse over the last few years.

Before I could hit 27-30psi and then Id ramp up duty cycle as back pressure built to try and hold but it would fall to 25ish by 8k. Now the same duty cycle (90% up top) is only getting me 23psi.

It also struggles to reach boost unless on a long pull. So quick jabs in AutoX it falls into the teens before trying to climb up to peak.

Could the boost control solenoid be bleeding internally?

Checks: Pressure tested, leaks all fixed. WGA replace OEM to Forge with med/high preload and 19psi spring
Possible causes: Gauge is wrong and boost is fine, turbine housing cracked bypassing exhaust, solenoid leaking pressure to WGA

Any quick thoughts?

Im going to do a boost leak test and hold 30psi gauge pressure on the compressor and check the boost gauge sensor and match it with the 4bar map sensor. And I'll probably just get a spare BCS for good measure.

 

I recently had similar symptoms. I did a boost leak test and found that the o-ring on the piston in my Tial Q BOV had popped off and allowed a huge boost leak because the valve didn't seal correctly anymore. But you said you already did a boost leak test...

 

You should be able to log boost if you have an omni map sensor. I'd start there to verify if the gauge is correct. If the map sensor was off it would run poorly.

 

I have done that also when I set initial boost with the new WGA. The 4bar pressure matches my gauge pressure which are of course two different sensors. So that should be good. But it was an idea others brought up this weekend talking about it.

My OEM turbo never developed cracks bad or bad enough to notice any effect in boost so not sure how bad they can be. Though at only 5 years and less than 10k miles it shouldnt be an issue either. So seems something else is effecting ability to target boost and next guess is solenoid. Its cheap enough I should just get one on the way and swap it for verification.

 

Is your solenoid an authentic Mac valve? Seen plenty of clone valves fail.

I'd also check that there are no pre turbo exhaust leaks.

 

Its a real grimmspeed, AFAIK. And no pre-turbo leaks. Ive had the manifold off several times since the boost has started to decline and Ive block sanded the manifold for flatness at the flanges.

 

I think im gonna go for an FP black, intercooler kit, tubular manifold and bigger injectors next year and hang around the 450 torque number till I decide to build the bottom end. Might stroke it, might not, but for now 272 cams, a IX turbo and meth injection holding around 27psi is good enough to have a blast and still be reliable. Got to figure out which route I wanna go for pistons and rods though, goal is to just have a 600hp street car

 

Leaking internally? or out the ptfe coated fittings?