I had it set up like this originally and i had the pneumatic actuator mounted to the same bar which rotated with the lever. this was mounted to the dash bar, What i was finding was with the movement of the engine it would affect the stroke of the actuator and i would get miss shifts. Because with the lever it doesnt matter you just pull it another 5 - 10mm etc to account for this movement but when you have an actuator this is fixed. so the only way to get the actuator to work reliably was to mount it directly on the gearbox like how the hollinger and xtrac kits come. Doing this meant i had to remove the bars for the bellcrank that connects to the lever to make room for the actuator so its not possible to have both connected together.

For a while i just had the lever mounted in the car so i could pull the cable but like you said being RHD i had to use my left hand in 2 places at once so this solution works better. Will grab a photo tonight with the lever assembly removed. looks much better now.

 

Or accidentally fire the fire system when all I wanted to do was go in reverse haha. I have to change mine out this spring to replace the 3rd eye causing AFFF.

 

Looks like Wilwood is updating their logo and hard anodize process. The new version looks much better.

The bad news is that if you order a pair of L+R calipers right now, you might end up with mismatched calipers like me.

Going to see if Wilwood will swap one of them so they match.

 

was running a porsche one weekend with new owners. quick kid whos parents had money. they wanted to fit a coolsuit system in so they were doing this in the evening after the practice day was done. The dad was mucking about wiring it all up direct to the battery and then couldnt work out why it wasnt running and goes oh the main power isolator must be off and boom hit the extinguisher system button on the hood. the whole drivers side of the interior and the engine bay was flooded in foam that was a good laugh.

 

getting back to an older topic - do the fender braces work/are they worth the weight?

also - anyone running a center crossmember brace? (https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-ev...-center-brace?) - curious if it's just because of the tow hook that the undertray no longer fits.

 

you can always try this
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...l#post11950319

tow truck guys prefer not to use that tow hook tho

 

yeah I can cut the undertray if it's the tow hook that's the problem. otherwise it may be due to losing mounting near the back, but I'm fine using zip ties for that

 

ah yeah. the front side has a bracket also which I dont use any more since I want a 1 piece cover. you might need something to fill the gap so the cover doesnt flap around. the big zip ties helps in installation, and also to make sure the cover doesn't fall off when you eat a cone

 

yea looking into. may still just fit without any modification, i may not do a flap though and just cut a slit if the tow hook fitment is an issue.

 

That OEM hook under the car I use to use for tie-down but after ~5-6 years it finally broke. Luckily not in a catastrophic way. I need to get a real tow hook for the car though.

As for fender braces, I dont see it being all the useful for the Evo. Though an easy test could be to bolt one to the first two mounts and leave the forward bolt off. Then jack up that side by the wheel and see if you get any alignment change in the hole.

 

i've been reading some decent reviews, saying it's impacted the front bite a great deal, one of the weakest parts of the chassis, etc. also a good motoiq piece that swears by it, but these motoiq pieces are almost always fluff for products https://motoiq.com/project-evo-ix-pa...rake-system/5/

 

Placebo effect is strong when people are trying to justify purchases. Like the master cylinder brace where I did a test and as hard as I could press the master cylinder moved something like 0.3mm.

It may work super well, but Id want to verify flex before just bolting on random braces. Like the cusco brace up front. That ones about as dumb as can be and weight in the worst possible place.

 

right placebo definitely can be a leading contributor there. I think that front Cusco brace is well known to not do anything, plus you lose the crash bar, which has saved me once big time.

boostedfab also makes one now: https://www.boostedfabrication.com/c...-fender-braces

 

I bought a Buschur one and shelfed it.



There was no 'pad' where it meets the rad support. I found a gap with new hardware and didn't feel like spacing it out so I just ran the factory member. Didn't really want to lose that jack point which I didn't even think about.

Also seen ppl fabricate their own bars because they didn't like the flat 'tab' style design as the rear subframe bolt location. I've seen it done as more of a 'sleeve' style:



You can see how thickness varies. I've also heard it create noise/vibration but whose EVO isn't already noisy af?

 

This is Boosted Fab's. Comes with mounting jackpoint. Only way it adds NVH is gonna be from what bushing you run. I opted for the 70a version (I believe factory is probably 50-60a, and most people get a 90a durometer bushing when they do this modification).

https://www.boostedfabrication.com/c...ly-crossmember