Like a wild Friday night - just jam it in wherever you can!

Keep the 3" ducts, might just need to modify the bracket to make it work?
I think SSB had the small threaded holes there to hold onto the ducts.
LCA scoops will help, but full ducted is the best for sure.

 

mudflaps?

 

10k/12k range seems common with wheel to wheel racing and with very skilled drivers (not sure if left foot braking got to do with it). Personally with stockish fenders/liners and wider 200tw tires, stiffer springs is a must, especially if you autox too. I needed 15k front so my tires barely touches my 'tucked' fender/liners.

 

man. last time I put on 22k rear springs my rear wheels were faster than my fronts, on a straight away, and spun.. I got called out by safety guys 2x, different days. I put those things away but looks like its time to try it again lol

 

Definitely have to understand the high rear rate has some caveats.

Most importantly, it still takes time for the rear tires to heat up. Longer than the front. And in that time, the rear will be pretty loose. Under 100mph, I full on send it. But higher speeds, gotta ease into things.

"You" probably need more rear camber than you have. -2.5-3 with stock uprights and -3-3.25 with SSB Rear uprights. The reason for more has to do with camber curves.

Toe is your tuning tool for rotation. Especially on/off throttle. Its even more pertinent while 3wheeling due to the thrust vector of that tire relative to the center of rotation. Center of rotation moves around depending on slip angle of both ends and when 3-wheeling you're likely near your peak slip angle with the center of rotation as far forward as it gets. Toe-in is going to reduce that rotation torque more and more as rear slip angle increases.

 

I wonder if tyre type makes a big difference to what spring rate works also. Maybe on a semi slick or road tyre you need that extra spring rate to make the tyre work vs a slick?

I always found with the heavier springs especially on high speed corners it was like the rear had too much grip and the car would dig in and start oscillating/bouncing as your trying to power out of the corner. Maybe more camber would fix it. Definitely something to play around with on a test day some time.

Toe out was a good trick to get more rear grip when u need it also haha. can get hairy tho

 

sorry for the small pic. My ducts were built into my caliper mounts. i had to do some minor shaving of the profile on the SSB uprights to make them fit but got them to fit.

 

If anybody wants some light watching before bed tonight heres the full race videos from the other weekends racing

Race 1, Had an epic arm wrestle with Nick Jones in this one. both of us were pushing hard all race. just suffered from poor tyre warm up in the opening lap vs a car using tyre warmers which proved the difference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySekOUe574Y&t=1s

Race 2, Full handicap race. we had a good start and got the jump on the competition. light rain limited our progress vs the slower cars up the road. can see i began suffering issues with a sticky shifter barrel and the gearbox was struggling to downshift in this one on occassion and the downshifts started sounding a bit rough.
Race 3, Off pole for this one thanks to our epic lap in the middle of R1. Had a poor initial launch and had to grab the clutch again. We had a good battle with Nick in the opening corners but really struggled for grip all race. Ran out of good tyres to use. Had a cool battle with Shane Whitley in the middle of the race but with the shifting issue getting worse he got the better of us. the shifting issue caused us to drop multiple issues with 2 corners to go which was real gutting.

 

I wouldn't put cooling ducts on a time attack car. They add drag and weight to provide cooling that isn't needed. For a W2W car or one that is on track for 30+ minutes at a time where the braking system can reach full heat saturation they definitely help to regulate temps and extend pad life.


As for springs, spring rate changes more than 2-3k on a damper with linear pistons without a valving correction is just not a great idea. It's extremely common where I'll see guys toss on stiffer springs, end up chasing tire bounce issues, try to fix it by spinning knobs and then having new or worse issues. You can get away with it a bit more with digressive piston dampers but that's only because the high speed has a larger range of rates it can manage, the low speed damping will still be inadequate and you're still leaving performance on the table by not having the correct valving for the spring rate.

 

i'm in agreement here. i dumped my ducts when i went ssb/ap racing, and have been realizing hot/hot/cool down is probably the best bet for time attack, and for engine happiness/power train & tires.

my ohlins are valved from factory to do 8/11, and I currently have 12's in the rear. i did have rear bouncing after the only change was going from stock knuckles to ssb f/r, but for whatever reason (maybe the 17s, more weight in the rear, idk), the rear bouncing seems to have stopped.

ps Austin, your relocation kit (https://www.wunderladenracing.com/pr...41076840169665) worked perfectly with the flex fuel kit I got. I can't get a great pic of it which is a bummer, but appreciate it & the rec to get tuned by raver.

 

anyone got a spare intake manifold? I'm looking to get my stocker ported and coated but trying to save on some downtime. for part 2 of some upcoming work, i think im gonna get a 3" downpipe (up from 70mm/2.75") & ported stock intake manifold, and some minor this and that.

 

The downpipe I can see doing. But the ported manifold isn't going to do you anything on a low power setup.

 

we have to take some stuff off and replace knock sensor, etc. so it's kind of just a why not sort of thing.

 

https://ajpdistributors.com/products...turbo-downpipe

i just confirmed this price is correct....

is it worth getting maps for their flex joint, or no? the rest of my exhaust is OEM fitment

 

guessing only the flange opening is 3"