GCG has been building stock frame G25-550 and G25-660 turbos: https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-g25...t-evo-4-9.html

One of these with an Artec cast manifold could be an easy and reliable setup.

 

But $3500++ is hard to swallow for just the turbo!

 

With modern vband turbo tech, Stock frame is only a consideration for autocross IMO.

G30-770 with the Artec manifold on my car. We finally hit the dyno with it. 32psi on E85 for 670 wheel.

 

I'd agree, if the cumbersome real estate and heat issue was as "resolved" as a stock frame setup. That being said though, 5500 for JUST the turbo when you can get a whole vband top to bottom for 6k....

 

Well thats AUD, so $3500 but still thats a grip for the turbo alone. Id be looking at other options as well.

Artec mani + FP black would probably be a pretty sweet combo for street/track. But as sean said, AX ends up with its own special needs.

 

I'm not sure how real estate is cumbersome?

There also isn't a heat issue with good ceramic coat.

 

True, but the benefit of being basically drop-in with stock location parts is a big benefit (and savings).

It's only a couple hundred dollars more than the FP stock frame turbos with MHI housings, so I don't think it's out of line.

I also like the ability to swap back to the stock or another stock frame FP turbo quickly if I want to target a different class or if the turbo breaks.

 

Getting a replacement quickly is easy when you're using an off the shelf turbo like a Garrett. It's the main reason we went away from using stock frame stuff in the race program. If a turbo fails we don't have 8 weeks to wait on a new on most times.

 

Nope its normal rotation as far as im aware. Turbine is on the left if your looking into the bay from the front and the inlet is on the rear side closest to the block

 

Its not a hang up if your speccing from new and can spec the reverse rotation turbo. It is if you already have all the other hardware and just want to change manifold

 

Alright guys, it's time to get my jalopy back on the road. There are some maintenance items that need to get taken care of to include fluids, fuel system flush and cleaning, tires, water pump, and a timing belt. I haven't autocrossed in 3 years due to losing the best lot in the metroplex at Texas Motor Speedway (thanks covid). The other lot that's become the primary has a very rough asphalt surface including cracks that will cause wear up the shoulders of the tires from hitting them while turning. So, I'm not sure how much auto-x I'll be doing locally here but may get into track days to utilize Eagles Canyon and Motorsport Ranch Cresson. With this in mind I'm looking for advice on some upgrades as I like not having to worry about issues. My questions are:

1) Should I remove balance shafts? I don't plan on pushing my existing setup any more than it already is. I'm fine with the limiter where it's at as well. It's on Torque Solutions trans, roll stopper, and cam side mount if NVH with these is an issue (I don't want my car falling apart from bolts backing out).
2) I'm probably going to get an Infinite Evo pan plus a Tomei scraper. I've had a Kiggly HLA installed for 4 or 5 years now. Should I inspect and possibly replace front case & oil pump? The car has 8X,XXX miles on it and for the last decade and 15,XXX miles has primarily been an auto-x car.
3) If I remove balance shafts should I get the ER oil pump gear?
4) Is there anything else I should be looking at?

 

it's an evo, so make sure you have a towhook

 

How much power does the car make and what tires is it on? Giving the pump a look over is not a bad idea. The ER gear will help oiling but involves adjusting timing so you'll need adjustable cam gear(s). Depending on power and tires you may not need to throw the whole kitchen sink at the car to keep the bearings in it.

I'd only consider removing the balance shafts if the car isn't being street driven much. NVH increase is fairly noticeable but if it's rarely driven on the street and can handle more NVH then pulling the shafts makes the engine more simple, pulls over 5lbs from the front of the car and reduces rotational mass of the engine. There are no performance downsides to removing them.

 

1) I always ditch the balance shafts. I check bolts pretty frequently and only really see the two end nuts on the exhaust mani back off. I also have stock motor mounts on the sides and rear and just solid on the front.
2) Yes, you need the infinity pan. You only need to replace the front case/oil pump if you're seeing idle pressure dropping in the low 10s.
3) Im not sure if the ER gear would be needed with the oil pan and external regulator. The regulator also fixes somewhat what the oil gear fixes. One benefit of the gear though is to get back some length offset from an increased deck height of the 4G64. I think is roughly equivalent to half cam compensation.
4) If you doing more track stuff, heat is the enemy. Logging at a minimum oil temp and AIT for safety are needed. T-case would also be good, that seems to be the hottest part on the ER endurance car.

 

Last dyno was the 430/390 with a 71HTA & S1s on E85. Tires are 255/40-17s right now due to stock fenders but I have 18x10 NT03+Ms I can utilize as well. A ladder fell on my car and banged up the passenger fender and hood so a little less concern about the factory body. I know it doesn't need the kitchen sink but with parts going out of production anything I can do to make sure there's less parts needed down the road I'm in for. Car is only street driven to events but I also now have a house and spot for a trailer. It has no AC or radio so the F150 is a much more comfortable ride.

Thanks, man. I'll have to check the oil pressure at idle and go from there. I do have adjustable cam gears so that's not an additional expense required to run the gear. I'm still on a 4G63 so the height thing doesn't matter to me. Didn't you have an issue with your alternator vibrating apart or was that someone else?