Sorry, I'm having a hard time following this post. So are you overboosting and going lean at the same time? Or are those two separate issues occurring at different times?

When you say the issues go away after a long drive, do they come back? Or does the lean/overboost issue only occur shortly after you start the car?

Finally: Are you set up for data logging with a full-range MAP sensor? Connecting an OP and getting some data logs during the issue would help a lot. Even better if you can log AFR with it.

 

haha that's fair! These AEM gauges are junk. Electronic boost sensor type gauge and the AEM wideband needs extra stuff to log AFRs in evoscan. I haven't yet but yes ur right, datalogs would solve this so I'll check for knock when I get a chance.

The issue comes and goes as it pleases. I've just been watching AFRs closely. I don't trust the boost gauge readings. I gotta find better gauges.

I was tuned on ecu controlled boost, OEM map sensor. Thanks I'll keep diggin.

 

https://evoscan.com/wp-content/uploa...0000400-90.pdf

Junction block diagram shows (2) fuel pump relays tied into all kinds of connectors that an alarm was tapped into. This is why I am suspecting they failed causing this weird problem. I got a hold of some relays and I'll do a log and see if I'm still scratching my ***** after or not.

 

I think the answer is right there. if i set the right side to full (2ohms, which is 2/3 tank) i can read the remaining 1/3 fuel gauge action to determine the level in the bowl

 

is this based on idling speeds or off-throttle only? I have my own issue after EGR/Evap deletes and post SD tune

 

front diff shares fluids with the gearbox... ... maybe even more of a problem...

 

The bigger issue with the ATS front differential is it breaks. I had one fail the spider gears which broke the whole transfer case (could see the remaining spider gears from the outside). I had another one break the case by the splines that plug into the vcu. I gave up after that.

 

they redesigned the ats front diff with a stronger case, but i've got the old ****ty one

 

Two tires on my car are constantly leaking at a very slow pace. It is more exaggerated in the winter for some reason, where I need to add some air every week or two. In the summer, it is much rarer that they would need air.

So, this happens with brand new tires as well, so I definitely don't have a hole in them. So, what other thing are there to consider?

• Crack in those two wheels - I find this quite unlikely, since it has been like this for years now, but worth to do another check
• Bent rims - they do look fine with some abuse that happened to them over the years, but none of them look like places where to air would leak from. I did take those our and kept them in a big pot with water to see if there are any bubbles, but I could never find any
• Valves - now this one has higher probability for causing this. One thing is that those inserts seem to be unique and apparently typical tire places don't seem to have replacement for those. Is there a place that you might know where one can get replacement for those?
• Seals around those valves - I have never checked those on my own, but it is possible that air could leak there as well. Is this something people need to change a lot? What I mean here is the whole TPMS unit, which would require my ECU code correction, I guess

Any other ideas are more then welcome! I am getting a new set of tires tomorrow and I would love to have a solution for this...

 

Only other thing is bead corrosion but usually on daily drivers. Tire leaks are always more prevalent in winter. TPMS leaks are common. Also check valve cores. Inflating to 40psi and spraying the hell out of the tire with soapy water is always my first step. If possible, dunk and submerge wheel and tire.

 

Is there a place to get replacement for those OEM valve cores?

And, yes - this is my daily driving wheels and they have been spinning for 95k miles

 

They come with TPMS service kits.

Here's a link to bead corrosion: Service Bulletin

If it's real bad I take a roloc disc to it and make a smooth surface. Bead sealer is kinda messy and last resort.

Here's a kit for a 2010:

 

Spray some soapy water around the valve stem, see if that's what it is.

The tire shop should be replacing the TPMS seal, nuts and valve core every tire change.

 

That is how I figured out they were not doing it (yet, they would still charge me for it). When I pressed them about this, they told me they didn't have those that match EVO X ones...scum..

 

Yeah, simplest scam in the book for tire service. I've seen kits thrown right in the trash to keep inventory on.