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When you say the issues go away after a long drive, do they come back? Or does the lean/overboost issue only occur shortly after you start the car?
Finally: Are you set up for data logging with a full-range MAP sensor? Connecting an OP and getting some data logs during the issue would help a lot. Even better if you can log AFR with it.
I ran some logs last night and saw 4 counts of knock. I think the fuel pump is shot, I can usually hear a 255 run at idle through the seat.
Of the 3 fuel pump relays, 2 are used for a two-speed voltage control like DSMs, is that correct?
If I was tuned with a 255, is there any other pump I could run? I have an extra fuel pump hanger.
It seems like these 255s fail easily. Or maybe buy another 255 and punch in the relief valve? Could factory FPR be fkn up?
My tuner had to figure out how to get it to work without the FPR solenoid.
Evoscan is kidna new to me. I have a 5V to serial adapter coming to log AEM afrs. MAP sensor is OE.
Changing the fuel pump should not require any changes to the tune, I replaced my 255 Walbro with an AEM 340 and had zero issues. The fuel pressure is controlled by the regulator, the pump is just that, a pump. The relief valve on the pump is for if there is a clog between the pump and the fuel rail.
Is rewiring the pump with a hobbs switch a no-brainer, but not really necessary at low power level? and does a rewire of that nature require a reflash?
Man I keep having an issue where I have to keep trying to crank the ignition for my starter to work. It seems like whenever I replace the starter it's good for like a year and then it starts acting up again where when I turn the key it just clicks until I do it a lot and it may turn over. Tried changing the key ignition and zip tie thing and no change. Always seems to fix itself for a little while when replacing the starter. Anyone have any thoughts? I did read a bunch of different starting issue threads. I havent tried one thing where you modify the relay.
So, time for me to change tires came and I made an appointment with hope that there would be new rubber on the road soon! When the call came from the tire place, they told me they couldn't take the wheels of. On the one they tried hard, they stripped one of them and stopped at that point.
So, I take my torque gun and hit the drivers front one - none of them was willing to do anything. Big 1/2" ratchet came for the help and one came off the way we like. The other four all snapped.
Since I had bought a set of ARP longer studs a while back and had them ready to go in, I stated taking those broken ones off. Had to take the rotor out in order to get to them (not sticking enough to hammer them out). 5 came out, new 5 got in! When I was installing the caliper back on, the metal pipe that connects rubber hose with the caliper, started to leak. There is about 3/8" of exposed pipe there (the rest is rubberized) and it corroded enough when I moved it a bit, it opened up.
Got a new pipe from the dealer and put it back together - car is drivable, but I still have 3 more wheels to break studs and replace them with the new ones. Other front wheel decided to be OK, so I could take the wheel off and just hammer them out without taking that side caliper off and put them back in the same way.
Now, I have never done that to the rear ones on the EVO. DSM had an opening in the back plate that studs could come out without taking half of everything off. I am hoping that to be true for EVO as well, since I would be much happier to take those out without taking calipers there as well
Man I keep having an issue where I have to keep trying to crank the ignition for my starter to work. It seems like whenever I replace the starter it's good for like a year and then it starts acting up again where when I turn the key it just clicks until I do it a lot and it may turn over. Tried changing the key ignition and zip tie thing and no change. Always seems to fix itself for a little while when replacing the starter. Anyone have any thoughts? I did read a bunch of different starting issue threads. I havent tried one thing where you modify the relay.
So, time for me to change tires came and I made an appointment with hope that there would be new rubber on the road soon! When the call came from the tire place, they told me they couldn't take the wheels of. On the one they tried hard, they stripped one of them and stopped at that point.
So, I take my torque gun and hit the drivers front one - none of them was willing to do anything. Big 1/2" ratchet came for the help and one came off the way we like. The other four all snapped.
Since I had bought a set of ARP longer studs a while back and had them ready to go in, I stated taking those broken ones off. Had to take the rotor out in order to get to them (not sticking enough to hammer them out). 5 came out, new 5 got in! When I was installing the caliper back on, the metal pipe that connects rubber hose with the caliper, started to leak. There is about 3/8" of exposed pipe there (the rest is rubberized) and it corroded enough when I moved it a bit, it opened up.
Got a new pipe from the dealer and put it back together - car is drivable, but I still have 3 more wheels to break studs and replace them with the new ones. keep old ones as backup. Other front wheel decided to be OK, so I could take the wheel off and just hammer them out without taking that side caliper off and put them back in the same way.
Now, I have never done that to the rear ones on the EVO. DSM had an opening in the back plate that studs could come out without taking half of everything off. I am hoping that to be true for EVO as well, since I would be much happier to take those out without taking calipers there as well
Fedja
I suggest you take the time to unbolt stuff every now and then. maybe install into new hubs and use a press. I've seen a local evox guy having issues with freshly installed studs not fully pressed in.
same goes with your wheel bolts, you should address what got them frozen. with ARP studs you wont be able to break them. trust me I know lol. I rounded a couple of lugnuts and took me so much time and tools/expensive drill bits but in the end I couldnt save the wheel. I even drilled into my bicep when a drill bit broke
this is what victory against ARP studs looks like
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Feb 29, 2024 at 12:20 PM.
I suggest you take the time to unbolt stuff every now and then. maybe install into new hubs and use a press. I've seen a local evox guy having issues with freshly installed studs not fully pressed in.
same goes with your wheel bolts, you should address what got them frozen. with ARP studs you wont be able to break them. trust me I know lol. I rounded a couple of lugnuts and took me so much time and tools/expensive drill bits but in the end I couldnt save the wheel. I even drilled into my bicep when a drill bit broke
this is what victory against ARP studs looks like
That is not a PG13 image for sure!
I had an open end lugnuts even before and they didn't help with corrosion getting in there. This one will get a bit of some anti-seize (sp?) with hopes it would protect it. Or, as you said above, just take them off every once in a while
Man I keep having an issue where I have to keep trying to crank the ignition for my starter to work. It seems like whenever I replace the starter it's good for like a year and then it starts acting up again where when I turn the key it just clicks until I do it a lot and it may turn over. Tried changing the key ignition and zip tie thing and no change. Always seems to fix itself for a little while when replacing the starter. Anyone have any thoughts? I did read a bunch of different starting issue threads. I havent tried one thing where you modify the relay.
Need to replace the starter switch, and do the starter relay bypass/upgrade wiring. Theres a thread on it in Evo general. Search intermittent starting issue or something like that
So, time for me to change tires came and I made an appointment with hope that there would be new rubber on the road soon! When the call came from the tire place, they told me they couldn't take the wheels of. On the one they tried hard, they stripped one of them and stopped at that point.
So, I take my torque gun and hit the drivers front one - none of them was willing to do anything. Big 1/2" ratchet came for the help and one came off the way we like. The other four all snapped.
Since I had bought a set of ARP longer studs a while back and had them ready to go in, I stated taking those broken ones off. Had to take the rotor out in order to get to them (not sticking enough to hammer them out). 5 came out, new 5 got in! When I was installing the caliper back on, the metal pipe that connects rubber hose with the caliper, started to leak. There is about 3/8" of exposed pipe there (the rest is rubberized) and it corroded enough when I moved it a bit, it opened up.
Got a new pipe from the dealer and put it back together - car is drivable, but I still have 3 more wheels to break studs and replace them with the new ones. Other front wheel decided to be OK, so I could take the wheel off and just hammer them out without taking that side caliper off and put them back in the same way.
Now, I have never done that to the rear ones on the EVO. DSM had an opening in the back plate that studs could come out without taking half of everything off. I am hoping that to be true for EVO as well, since I would be much happier to take those out without taking calipers there as well
Fedja
You will need to get the calipers off, rear discs and possibly even pull the hubs out as IIRC there is no space to do it with hub in situ. Put some copper grease on every bolt as you do not want to strip caliper threads later on..
You will need to get the calipers off, rear discs and possibly even pull the hubs out as IIRC there is no space to do it with hub in situ. Put some copper grease on every bolt as you do not want to strip caliper threads later on..
I put the copper antiseize on all my lug studs a couple times a year cause they come on and off so frequently.
Another thought is thinking about the materials of the studs and nuts. For instance, if one is stainless then the other should not be zinc plated. Those will corrode together. To see if your materials/coatings may conflict look up galvanic corrosion tables.
I just run a $50 battery now after this change. And I dont have to worry starting my car. I previously had to start my car earlier than needed when on grid
Feb 15, 2024 | 02:06 PM
